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About DirkR

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    Sint-Niklaas, Belgium

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  1. A Happy New Year to you all! A good health and lots of elbow grease!? Again, a need a bit of advice. I've been cleaning my axles and everything on it and am now ready for paint and reassembling... I'm replacing a lot of things, but do I need to replace my swivel pin housings and oil seal retainers also? Thank you for your answers! dirk
  2. Very nice! Have lots of fun with it!!!
  3. When cleaning with the wirebrush, I use 'ranex rustbuster' (converts rust (if any left) from a detrimental oxide to a beneficial phosphate of iron) as a first layer. Then I paint it with 2 layers of polyurethane acrylpaint. After sandblasting, I was thinking of an epoxyprimer as a first layer and again 1 or 2 layers of polyurethane acrylpaint... I don't know about hot zinc spray. I should ask around for that. What should I do with the breather hole? I was planning on leaving it onto the axle. Should I remove it? many greetings, dirk
  4. Thanks! The salisbury axle was what I looked at in the manual :-)) . Then I can unbolt the front axle, close the openings (with mdf or plywood) and protect the studs. many greetings, dirk
  5. Thanks for your input! Getting the diff back in place and correctly lined up is above my paygrade I think 😉 . I'll wirebrush them instead ... many greetings, dirk
  6. Hello, I'm getting my firewall, B & C styles and some rear floor cross members sandblasted. I was preparing my axels too, but now wonder if it's safe with the final drives not disassembled? I closed the open ends with ductape. Do I have to protect the final drives in any way? Thank you for your answers and friendly greetings, Dirk
  7. Hi Tom, Thanks for your input. I ended up by drilling the ones in the centre of the panel out and grinding off the ones on the sides. All went well. Many greetings, dirk
  8. Hi there, Can anyone tell me how the rear floor cross-members are best separated from the floor? I want to clean them and give them a lick of chassis paint. I see some rivets in the middle section that I can drill out. But on the sides, I don't see how it's fixed. A sort of screw or a sort of nail? I has a flat surface... Since I want to re-use them I wan't to make sure I do it right. Many greetings & thanks for your clarifications! Dirk
  9. Thank you David, that's already a good suggestion! Maybe one of my sons have such a small camera I could use... I'll keep you posted of what I find...
  10. Hi Guys, Here I am again. I've cleaned my chassis and found a few small holes in two cross members, a hole in a chassis rail and one in the back plate. My 1st Question now is: Does it matter how I cut the bad metal out and how do I replace it? I've read I need 2 mm steel plate. Best way is to make the repair flush I suppose. 2nd question is: does it makes sense to open up the chassis rails by cutting out the front plate off the dumb irons and also cutting a piece out of the back plate (where there's a hole on one side) to be able to clean (with the help of a stovepipe cleaning brush) and inspect the inside of the chassis rail? I have a few pictures of the holes (taken with the chassis upside down) ... Thanks for your advice & many greetings, dirk
  11. @secondjeremy, I got them all off, so that one also I suppose... a Santana gearbox? I wouldn't know. If so, then it becomes more and more a mystery car... It was first registered in Belgium in 1980,june 27, but it has still a chassis number with 9 figures, 939.333.97C which means it was built in 1979 at the latest before the start of the VIN number. No problem with that. The guy I bought the car from, bought the car in 1984, after only 4,5 years of use. He didn't change the engine, but still my engine number is a strange KR1390. Now you mention the Santana gearbox... A replacement motor and gearbox all in 4,5 years... that's not normal I think. And a few days ago, I was looking for replacement doors and saw that my doors have the anti-burst locks from the stage 1 V8 and military models if I can believe the explanation that was given... @Bandog, I'll take my time for the chassis. Was thinking to open it up at the front by slicing the front off the dumb iron and weld it back on after really cleaning the chassis inside, treat it with a rust fixator and filling it up with anti rust spray... @Arjan, Goeie avond! I'll do that, but first I'm going to focus on the chassis and try to have it rolling again before winter sets in... but that's maybe to ambitious. Anyway, the motor will be for the winter. I'll transport it to my home so I can work on it in my garage. Greetings! dirk
  12. Hi Guys, So I gave it another try, together with my 2 sons of 21 and 23. We managed to get an opening of about 3 mm after about an hours work but they were anxious to do more pleasant things in their opinion, so we pulled it all out in one piece. I now hope it will be easier to separate the gearbox from the motor than vice versa... Anyway, I can now start cleaning the chassis... which is in my opinion still in good shape...
  13. Thanks for the advice! This weekend I'll give it another go. I hope it is not as stuck as Eightpot's. It is indeed a 1979 series 3 SW 2,25 3MB diesel which hasn't been driven since at least january 17, 1987 since that was the date the technical inspection was due... more than 30 years ago... I hope for the best and keep you posted! dirk
  14. Hello, I need some advice on how to separate the engine from the gearbox. I've dismantled my LR and all that's still hanging in the chassis is the engine and gearbox assembly (including fairey overdrive). Because of the weight, I want to remove them separately. I followed the manual, and removed the engine silent blocks and pulled the engine towards the front. Only nothing happened!!! Since I've never done this before, can anyone tell me what I can/should do to effectively separate them? Didn't I pull forwards enough? Do I first have to try to get some opening in the bellhouse with some fine tool? Use a rubber hammer? Put more force on it? Thanks for your advice & many greetings, dirk
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