Niamh
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Posts posted by Niamh
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And that makes things so much easier when the hest and penetrating oil can be applied where they'll do most good.
Caliper off
Niamh
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1
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Still not shifting!
Going to cut off the outer part of the caliper so I can take the hub off and get better access.
Niamh
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Been a while since I did one, but if I remember right I disconnected the shock absorber and with the increased drop I was able to get straight onto the bolt head with an extension through the spring coil.
I was thinking of jacking the chassis to get the spring to open a bit, currently it's just on axle stands
it may round off, which then becomes a nightmare.
Les
All too true, trying very hard not to get to that stage.
Niamh
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The calliper will get a bit hot if you aren't careful so think about the rubber components...
That's being binned anyway.
Niamh
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I've had to resort to miging a bolt to the head which allows a better connection and the heat tends to loosen them anyway.
That's scary territory!
Last time I did any welding on a Disco I wrote it off- The centre console by the handbrake caught fire, I was welding the nearside front wheel arch at the time!
Niamh
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Irwin bolt grips
I haven'y mullahed the head... yet!
Niamh
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If it gets bad cut the head off with a slitting disc on the grinder and drill it out,
The body of the caliper gets in the way of a neat square cut though
I remove the hub usually and drill it from the outside in, less metal and a lot more room
often drilling it out to 6.5mm and walloping a 7mm coach bolt in works, failing that be sure you drill it central an square as big bits carve more meat! Dont want to mutilate a thread if you can help it.And even when the head's cut off one cant remove the capiper because of the hub, which can't be removed until the caliper's off.
Niamh
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They're fitted using a blue thread-locking-compound at the factory. Heat the head until it's red-hot with a gas-axe. The heat will conduct down the bolt and soften the locking compound. Hit it *really hard* square-on with a drift and a lump-hammer to break the lock. Then heat it until it's red-hot again and then use a proper 12-point socket on it.
"Gas-axe", I'm guessing you don't mean an ordinary propane blowtorch? Which I'm a bit reluctant to use given the broad spread of heat and the fact that there's a rubber oil seal not to far away on the hub.
The rear spring is right in the way of doing anything "square on"
Niamh
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Got the front calipers off and replaced no problem.
The rear right caliper came off with a bit of "naughty" effort wiht an 1/2" air wrench.
But can I get the top bolt on the left rear caliper to undo? Can I buggery!
Can't get a decent approch with the air wrench as there's the spring and the exhaust in the way.
So any tips to get this bolt out?
Niamh
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RAVE does, but it doesn't look quite the same, maybe they've got their picture with the mount pivoted down rather that with things in the normal position!
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Is "This" it, next to the bonnet release?
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Yeah, should be a black box the size of your hand (IIRC).
Nothing behind the glovebox... finally located the location picture in RAVE, seems to be behind the panel below the glovebox.
Anyone confirm?
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Your looking at a 1996MY diagram, it appears u don't understand the meaning of 'model years' or the difference between the early 1995MY disco and the 1996MY disco both are of the so called 300 series, and both were on the road in June 95 but their security systems are very different ie. single button fob or two button fob is the first indication.
RAVE ETM Discovery 1995 English.
Are you saying RAVE has the wrong diagrams?
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It also talks about a LED in the fob, which I don't have
confused.com
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Yes there's a different section if that's the case... I just thought it only applied to 2 button fobs.
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My RRC has the one-button fob and a theft alarm, so I suspect the Disco can have that too.
So you think I shoud have a dig behind the glove box and see what's there?
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Hmm. It's quite confusing, but there seems to be a difference between vehicles with and without theft alarm.
The 6-pin connector is for vehicles with theft alarm. The pinout here is:
Can single button fob vehicles have the theft alarm, or is that only on 2 button fob alarms?
I didn't think you could pair a new fob to vehicles with a theft alarm using the locking/uklocking etc game?
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Perhaps stop looking a a1996MY discos wiring diagram, as you have an early 95MY disco with a different security system but with both the master actuator operates the slaves, also it's the Japanese spec disco that doesn't have an alarm.
I'm looking at Discovery ETM 1995 2nd edition from RAVE.
What should I be looking at?
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So... a 6 pin connector with 4 wires suggests that the drivers door actuator doesn't supply the power to the other actuators and they should work even with the drivers door actuator unplugged.
Am I right, or confused?
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If you search for the connector (C607), it appears that there's an extra switch on the YK wire, closed when unlocked. Part of the theft alarm.
But that doesn't tie in with the wiring diagram you pointed to on page L6-2 which has brown/pink as the 4th wire, not yellow/pink that is actually there
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Well, one terminal has a black wire to thats an earth the other four you will find by using your multimeter, the supply to the servo motor and the pair of wires that go to the slaves via the controlling switch with in the master actuator, central locking is very simples in its function.
But acSure, but that suggests that there is no connection that actually fires the actuator. ann the diagrams say permanent live should be vis Brown/P{ink but that wire isn't there instead there's yellow/pink
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Check you have power with your meter at the terminals also.
Which terminals?
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RAVE is your friend. See the attached screenshots.
You can download the RAVE here/
Are the full circuit diagrams available of just those spread over several pages which can be hard to follow from one page to the next.
Also the troubleshooting section shows only a 4 pin connector not the 6 pin that is actually there.
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There should be 5 wires going in.
There are 5 from the connector to the actuator but only 4 on the harness side of the connector.
often drilling it out to 6.5mm and walloping a 7mm coach bolt in works, failing that be sure you drill it central an square as big bits carve more meat! Dont want to mutilate a thread if you can help it.
"Check Engine" light 300TDi EDC
in Discovery Forum
Posted
Rovacom Lite, but I think it's no longer available.
Niamh