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Niamh

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Posts posted by Niamh

  1. I doubt I'm going to be able to turn it the 90 degree required once it's in place and the sprocket attached even loosely (I'll be using the appropriate tool through the inspection hole to lock the sprocket prior to pulling the old pump.

    That's why I want to turn the pump and lock it before fitting IYSWIM

    Niamh

  2. I've got a second hand injection pump here that was obviously removed without being locked at the timimg position.

    Can I simply tuen it so the timing pin goes in and then lock it prior to fitting? I assume so, but...

    Niamh

  3. I'm going to have to actually check that at some point as all the diagnostics in Rave are with the ECU disconnected.

    Next time I'm playing with it I'll see what sort of speed I get... I know that once actuated the system holds a vacuum as I swithed off the pump but left the solenoid on.

    Niamh

  4. Seem to recall Ian Ashcroft saying something like the box has to be stood on end

    Certainly the paperwork that come with the box from Ashcroft advises this... and has dire warnings about oil cooler and pipes and crud, I took the easy option and went for a new cooler and pipes.

    Niamh

  5. The studs are similar to wheel studs - in that they are a tight splined fit from the inside of the casing.

    Ah, they're not like manifold studs that are screwed in then.

    Mind I hope that having fitted the ATB diffs that I'm not going to be working there again... unless we decide to upgrade the fronts as well.

    It is a pain - having to seperate the parts/ clean it up afterwards, but the general idea is that the job was done right in the first place, so therefore having to take it apart again in the future is generally not a consideration.

    Though some things have to be disassembled for routine maintenance, for example wheel bearings don't last forever.

    Niamh

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