Niamh
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Posts posted by Niamh
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Build date of both discos concerned was '96 & EPC certainly makes no mention of any silicone gasket, 7316 diff gasket is what it tells me .
The thing is that diffs are supposed to be bolted on not glued in place
Sainsburgers would be a 100 mile round trip... Will common or garden bathroom silicone sealant remover do the job, or is there something special for gaskets?
FWIW a polycarbonate rotary brush inb a drill did a fairly good job though getting round the studs was a person I'm not that keen on.
Niamh
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some vandal had glued it on with silicone gasket!
I'm beginning so suspect Land Rover themselves! That's 2 rear diffs pulled the week and both have the same black silicone gasket
Niamh
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I tried a gasket scraper, but it didn't do much.
Niamh
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you just need to cover the bits that you need to keep clean.
Like the entire opening into the axle
Niamh
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I've done a bit of research and find the idea of running hydraulic using the power steering pump ala the Milemarker's (but can't afford them)
You could offer me £120 for an old NHW10000 plus assorted hydraulic bits that is sitting in a box at the back of the garage...
Niamh.
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Came off fine, apart from the fact that some vandal had glued it on with silicone gasket!
How does one remove that stuff?
Niamh
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I remember many years ago working on a small awkward part on a bench grinder-
Hmmm I can smell burning flesh... ouch it's my fingertip!
No wonder I don't have soft ladylike hands.
Niamh
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Still tracking the fault
The vacuum system seems fine and holds a vacuum with the pump off and the solenoid closed, however anyone know how much of a vacuum if should produce (I have a gauge so can measure it at the actuator.
Niamh
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Easier than changing the entire axle I'd say
Niamh
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Why do you think you need a complete Axle?
If it is the diff just replace that with an exchange unit.
Niamh
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Got the propshaft tool & imperial impact sockets... just hope the nuts aren't siezed on!
Niamh
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It takes about an hour to remove a rear diff on the floor
Am I right in thinking that on Disco 1s they are imperial (well US) fixings 3/8" UNF IIRC so Imperial tools
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Having been through the system diagnostics they point to the cruise control ECU.
Googling suggests that AMR5441 and AMR1173 are actually interchangeable, but can anyone confirm for certain?
Niamh
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Don't Bearmach to HS standard height springs?
Niamh
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A second or 2 when the pump is started and the valve closed simultaneously, or a second or 2 if the pump is running and then the valve closed?
Niamh
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Moving the cable manually it seems free enough if someone has their foot on the pedal to remove the return spring tension.
Our problem is we don't know how fast it should operate.
A fair leak test should be to switch off the pump but leave the solenoid engaged... the throttle should remain open if there are no leaks, I think.
We're down in SW Wales
Niamh
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OK, the test seems meaningful if one does it with the engine running.
The actuator moves slowly and then revs build up as the throttle is actuated.
Not that it seems that responsive, it takes 5 - 10 seconds before the throttle seems to actually open at all.
Could the Bowden cable have become excessively stiff after several years of no use?
Niamh
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We've worked through the tests to Test 7C
And we're not sure what the Reslt we're looking for means- Cruise Control (Right)
Niamh
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Assuming 7J rims, 235/70R16 is a usual road fitmeent. You might want to consider an AT tread rather than a road tyre.
Niamh
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Just buy the relevant length M6 bolts locally.
Niamh
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I think he means the drag link from the steering box to the LH wheel
Niamh
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he uses dhl
Drop it, hide it and lose it
Niamh
How much is too much? Play in diff input flange
in International Forum
Posted
Oh the carp has advantages for the assembler... just not for the poor sod who has to strip it down years later.
Niamh