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It is not causing a problem at the moment, so I guess I will leave it for now. Thanks for the reply and advice.

Actually using the truck now and it drives OK, with some small(ish) issues, which I will continue to work on as I go. I have replaced all the drip pipes between the injectors on my 2.5 P38 due to a smell of diesel and what I thought was drips of oil which I later diagnosed as diesel. It appears to have cured both these issues. However, I want to change the main pipe between the filter and pump (engine side). Does anyone know the internal diameter of this pipe before I go pulling it off potentially damaging it (it is old and brittle)? I may also install a no return valve in this line unless advised it is not worth it?

Dug round further behind the bumper. Sensor was not on the bracket and wedged loose inside the bottom of the bumper and the wires torn. I assume that whoever took the bumper off last has caught it when refitting the bumper and not noticed (or not bothered) to fix it. I have repaired the wires refitted the sensor and now have a working outside temperature. Still have the HEVAC warning book on the display though, I revisit that at another time. Thanks for the help.

Thanks for the reply Filip. No never had a proper reading always been at -40 since I got it in January, just been sorting out all the other (many) jobs and this is one of the last I need to sort. I have had another look and can't see the sensor on the chassis, so it may well be that it is missing, though I can't see any cut wires either. I'll have to strip the bumper etc off and have a better look when I have time.

Thanks for the comprehensive reply. 387167 are last 6 of VIN so should be located where I have been looking but can't see it at the moment (hence my confusion). I'll look again......

The HEVAC on my 98 DSE is showing an external Temp of -40 degrees. This means that the electric fans mounted in front of the radiator don't kick in so when sitting in traffic the car gets hot (doesn't overheat but gets near the red). Once moving again all is well. I think my external temp sensor is the likely culprit (given the reading). I can't locate it (RAVE is confusing me as to the actual location - behind bumper / near wipers?) Any ideas / suggestions. Or am I likely mis-diagnosing the problem. (The car is now MOT'd, running OK [apart from above] and all advisories on the MOT have also been sorted. Only taken me since January to get this far!). I'm getting there slowly......

All done, thanks for the advice...

Didn't come with a handbook. But RAVE is my friend.

According to the RAVE, should be running, so I will do that (couldn't find it before)....

Hi again folks. My 98 2.5 Diesel Auto is the model with a gearbox dipstick. I have read a number of different opinions on checking the level, some say check when running others when not running. Mine has the oil level at between low and high when not running, is this correct or do I need to top it up having run through P to 1 and back again and having the engine running to get a level between low and high when running? Advice would be appreciated as this is my last job before I brave an MOT and actually get to use the car. Graham.

Part solved. There was an issue with driver's side lock, the window mechanism had caught and torn one of the wires. Got it to work, but now key seems to lose sync. I can get round it by using EKA, but will need to investigate what is stopping proper key sync. Weirdly it has worked a couple of times but seems to lose sync and I have to revert to EKA?

Thanks for the responses. I have tried the door lock sync procedure a few times but no joy. I am considering a Nanocom to keep on top of these "traits" - But is a lot of money for a car that only cost me about twice the price of the Nanocom! - Are there cheaper alternatives to the Nanocom (I will research the Lynx hadbn't heard of that before?) I have already considered getting the MGF locks new as they are cheaper than the LR ones - is this a good idea and do you know the correct part there seems to be a few? The car is drive-able as is but won't get through an MOT with stuck locks, so need to sort them before I can actually get it on the road. I bought as a project so not to worried about doing the work etc (in fact I enjoy the work) as have other cars, but would be nice to be able to get it legal and use it. It is a frustrating beast though....

I now in a worse position than my original post (some weeks ago). I had to have my fob repaired as the signal was intermittent. Now fob appears fine (good strong, consistent LED). The problem is this: 1) When I re-attached the car battery (I had disconnected it) there was a central locking sound (not sure if it was locking or unlocking) 2) Now I can't sync the key to get the CL working 3) The passenger door is now locked and can't be opened by either handle (inside or outside) 4) I can unlock the driver's door with the key manually and the two rear doors manually but can't open the tailgate or passenger door I am assuming this may be down to a failed driver's door lock (which I had replaced with a used unit) but not convinced I am right?

I'll do some more digging....

Don't think its the button as it illuminates the light on the fob and the central locking clicks but doesn't open so the signal appears to be being sent?

I have changed the two front locks on my DSE as they didn't work properly. Now all is good and I can lock and unlock. However, it appears to take me "at least" 3 presses of the fob to unlock the car. Locking it is fine , one press and all locked. I can live with it as it is, but any ideas what might be wrong?

Success! New glowplugs fitted (with new gaskets). Was gutted when I tried to fire it up and same as before the new glowplugs. Put my tools away in a bit of a huff. Thought, I'll give it a another go before I give up for the day. Coughed, rumbmled, puffed, fired-up and stalled. Another go and boom, running (and sounds quite nice to me). Also all windows/sunroof/mirrors working as they should, no error messages on the dash and I changed a couple of bulbs in the dash so it all lights up now! All-in-all a successful day tinkering. More to do, service kit arriving soon, door lock to be replaced, saggy headlining to be replaced and other bits and bobs but I am happy today :-) . Thanks for all the advice, I am sure I will be needed more in the next few days/weeks/months.

Glow plugs out, a couple looked wet, all had black deposits which wiped off. All looked physically OK (not cracked etc). New ones arrive in a couple of days so hopefully that'll sort the starting issue (?). I noticed that the fuel filter housing top is cracked, would this have any negative effect on the running of the car?

I have ordered some new glowplugs and gaskets and will let you know how it goes! Thanks.

Hi, Some progress. I tried the reverse EKA method and then put the key in the ignition and pressed the unlock fob key and it now turns the car over, so I'm getting closer. However, despite turning over it doesn't start. I believe this is because the BECM and ECU need to be re-synced - how do I do this? I have also solved the erratic window behaviour by changing the switch panel. So all in all I am getting there - just need to sort the starting issue now and everything else I can do as an ongoing working project. The car was registered in January 1998 and the preceding the last A is a W. The lockout period is half an hour after three incorrect attempts. Thanks for all the help thus far, I really do appreciate it. I'm getting there :-)

I'll try the reverse EKA method tomorrow (keycode locked at the mo as tried too many times today). I changed the fob battery on the same day. Beyond that not done anything.

Think it is time to get the BECM sent of for reprogramming, as I am at an impass, and all because I changed a battery!

Hmmm, then if I am getting confirmation of each key turn on the dash (sidelight icon flashing after each turn) and it's not working I am at a loss. Is there any other way to get it started. If I invested in a Nanocom (gulp) would this be able to reset everything so I can get it going. It's all very frustrating at the moment.

Thanks David, I have followed the process exactly with the confirmation on each key turn, mine is a 1997 2.5 DSE. I'll put it on the profile. I am stumped. Do you think the issue mentioned in point 2 (both front locks didn't open on fob when it was running) will be the issue? Thanks.

OK, So I have now sorted the radio problem with a code bought online. I also have the EAK code but it doesn't work and I am keycode locked at the moment. Could this be because I need to change the front locks before the EAK will be properly recognised? (See point 2 in my original post). Also, do I need to do the 4 x anticlockwise rotations before entering the code? I have tried with and without and no joy. Would love to be able to start the car (I know it starts as I drove it onto the drive when it was delivered). Any help would be greatly appreciated.