Dan D90
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Posts posted by Dan D90
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Thanks Guys, it is the 15A fuse under the drivers seat box that has blown, its the one for the 10AS. I replaced it but it failed again right away. The only think i can think of that might be causing it is water in one of the central locking motors, i will disconnect them and try again when i have some more fuses
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I’m hoping someone can point me in the right directions to an issue that I have probably caused!
Here is what I did:
swapped the cigarette lighter for a USB connector (seemed to work OK)
change the bulbs in the dash (disconnected the two connectors that connect to the instrument lights)
disconnected a rear indicator. (maybe reconnected the cables the wrong way around)
After putting everting back together i seem to have totally lost the immobiliser, central locking, hazard lights and indicators! Very odd.
I have disconnected the USB and indicator however the issues still persist. unfortunately that is all i had time to check before it got dark.
She still starts which i was surprised about given no immobiliser!
Could i have blown a fuse or relay that would cause all of the above?? Any ideas?
Thanks Dan
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The keys arrived today, they will do aa cheap spares, the handle is made from thin plastic and would brake if you trod on it. I guess you get what you pay for.
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On 9/10/2018 at 10:40 PM, Scotts90 said:
10AS is there in the pic, the green module behind all the wires that's fixed to the bulkhead. The part number usually reveals which options it's configured for (alarm/central locking/immobiliser). A search on everyone's favourite auction site for "10AS" usually finds a guy that advertises reprogramming and fitment of the internal relays to the unit to allow all functions.
thanks for this, technozen_electronics from ebay did a grate job programing my 10AS for central locking as provided two addtional fobs. Its all now working using the one oem fob.
Thanks Dan
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22 hours ago, oneandtwo said:
Thanks, I think this will do the job.
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5 hours ago, Red90 said:
Thanks Red, however i was hoping to get a branded one, but not at £50!
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Crazy!, I think I will just opt for a metal one, weird that there seems to be no non OEM ones floating around
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Does anyone know where land rover style key blanks can be purchased at a reasonable price? The cost on ebay / brit car etc is a joke!
https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/100452/3851/key___blank_owner___defender_2007_onward
Thanks, Dan
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So it seems my windscreen to bulkhead seal is leaking! The truck is parked uphill at an angle so it is hard to tell where the water is coming in as it is running a long a channel and out top of the bulkhead on the passenger’s side.
Its odd because the seal looks to be in good shape, is it worth the effort to replace it or is there a good change a new seal will leak also, ie a bad design?
Should I just try to seal it from the front with black silicon?
Thanks Dan
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Thanks, everyone, order a new grub screw, and turret, hopefully i wont have to drill out the old screw but it is very very tight!
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Any thoughts regarding the cup? should i just try it without changing it? or is it worth drilling out the grub screw?
Does the turrent housing look worn to anyone?
Thanks Dan
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she's in bits at the moment but i dont beleive it dose anyhting in its current state, the purple wire is disconnected in the engine bay
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2 minutes ago, Madcowz said:
I noticed that the 2 spacers that are supplied to raise the turret up don't come with any gaskets. Do you think this will be an issue?
Just use some marine grade sealer, that's what I plan to do anyway, if/when I can progress the install.
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47 minutes ago, western said:
the nylon cup just lifts out of that housing, I fitted a slick shift a few months ago,
There should be a clip on the bottom:
I guess yours is missing if you can just pull it out?
What do you think about the upgrade so far?
thanks, Dan
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I know this is probably a long shot, however from the pics below does anyone have an idea what the mystery button might do/have done:
Its located on the steering column surround, the green and red wire runs to a relay in the engine bay:
connected to that is a yellow cable that runs to the battery, a purple one that runs nowhere and a smaller purple and blue cable which runs into the passenger side wing, unfortunately, this one is tight and I can not see what it connects too.
Thanks Dan
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The gear selection on my 90 is not the best so I decided to install a syncro slick shift after reading so many positive reviews.
The install of the shifter is real simple, however, on mine the grub screw which holds the nylon cup holder in place seem to have been gluded in! The condition of the screw was not good before I started but I have made it worse, I don't believe it is going to budge via the normal method.
My question is should I bother trying to drill it out and replace it or just leave it and the original nylon cup in place? The cup is a bit pitted which I guess will leave the lever a little floppy ?
Also, the turret housing seems to be a bit worn, is it worth replacing given they are only £35 _vat from syncro?
A few pics to illustrate, I appreciate any advise:
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4K for a decent TD5 seems cheap to me, I must have viewed a dozen defenders before I purchased mine, all of them were over 4K and all of the has rust issues, either on the chassis or the bulkhead.
If something brakes why not just fix it when/if it does? What do you plan using it for that you are worried about reliability?
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Thanks, I will enquire, it would be good to get an additional fob at the same time.
Dan
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Does anyone knows if there is any difference between the TD5 handbrake lever and the 300tdi??
My handbrake seems to be seized, I was going to replace it with an x brake so I have purchased the bracket which sits behind the handbrake lever and holds the cable, which apparently is needed.
It might be a while before I can afford the x brake so I thought I would take another look at the current setup.
It seems the brake cables on the TD5 and 300tdi are a little different.
The TD5 cable seems to sit directly into the handbrake lever, whereas the 300tdi is threaded and screws into the bracket
Without the bracket attached the 300tdi cable is a sloppy fit:
Are there different handbrake levers for the TD5 & 300tdi?
The 300tdi cable also seems to be a bit longer:
Thanks Dan
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41 minutes ago, crwoody said:
Not sure which version yours is, but the later (2002 on) Td5 takes a feed from Fuse 7 (20A) under the driver side seatbox for the 10AS alarm/locking ECU, (green plastic box, mounted behind the dash binnacle,) via a Purple/Black wire.
Of course, if yours is not equipped with the 10AS then that wire or fuse will probably not be there, however, it shouldn't be too hard to find a permanent (fused) live wire in that area, you don't need a huge current capacity.
If you do have the 10AS it simplifies things somewhat as the central locking logic and drivers are already there, you'll just need to add the door lock solenoids and wiring and get a kit to modify the current alarm module to add an extra relay and a couple of other bits to it, it's an easy modification if you can use a soldering iron.
Thanks, I can solder OK but I have no clue on the rest of the electronics bit! Running a wire from the battery is starting to look like the easy option
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Imjust in the process of installing central locking into the defender, straightforward enough, however the best place to tap into power eludes me!
Is there an easy option behind the dash or should I just run a cable direct from the battery? The cable from the battery seems a bit overkill but is probably the safest option! Below is a picture of the wiring behind the dash if that helps.
Thanks Dan
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Used my lunch break to fit the brackets today, Im happy to say that after slacking off the chassis brackets I was able to line them up good enough to get a bolt through. Imnot sure if they are needed or not but it can not hear to have them connected. All rubbered up also 🙄
Now just waiting for the reel brackets to arrive....
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11 hours ago, Scotts90 said:
The td5 anchors don't use those brackets that sit on the chassis member, the ones you bought bolt through the tub. So, you'll have the two holes lined up looking down through the seatbox and this should then tie into the tub. If it's a td5 seatbox and an earlier tub then you'll have to drill holes in the tub.
Are you sure? If the tub was in the right place then they would fit perfectly. I think they will be OK without them but I would be interested to know if they were ditched for the TD5.
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The brackets have arrived and are in good nic, the next problem is that the holes do not line up to bolt through to the support which connects to chassis, you can see how far out they are below:
They are miles out!,I think I will need to create some form of bracket to bridge the gap! Its the same on both sides, its like the tub is 15mm offset to the left!
No Hazards or immobiliser!
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
10AS is back up and running now, it was the central locking motor as I suspected, it seems it is getting covered in water, it looks like the water is seeping along the wires to a point where they join with bullet connectors. Waterproof connectors should resolve this.
However, my indicators/Hazards are still dead. I can hear & feel the relay click when the indicators are activated but nothing happens. However, when I arm the immobiliser all indicators work fine.
With this in mind is it the relay or the switch? The switch does look a little worse for wear.
thanks Dan