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About neilc

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  1. Just saw this for sale , thought it might be of interest to someone , eBay , finishes today !.. Before anyone says it ... I know it's not a Land Rover , however it is interesting , it's not mine and I'm not on commission. 😒 https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F173993740881
  2. I appreciate the early Am responses from you both , thanks. I'll have a look at that , I've already bought the fusebox , I've only just thought that to tidy it up a bit I could drill out one of holes in the spade connector and fit these , or buy a new mini fuse box where the connections screw in
  3. If I add a blade fuse box (mini) and power it from existing ignition wire how can I then spur that off to more than one new electrical item ? , I've tried my best to explain in the diagram , thanks. Initially I will only be running a dual usb from this and don't really at this time known what else I will be running off it , it is just for future reference . I will also at some time try to exchange the under column glass fuses for another blade fuse setup. VID_20190817_153823738.mp4
  4. Before moving the props and checking other things I tried tightening up the wheel nuts , I had read of similar symptoms where wheel nuts were able to removed by hand , they were so loose! , mine weren't that bad however they were certainly not as tight as possible , I haven't got a torque set so I usually tighten them up as best as I can without issue , however ive done approx 500 miles in the last 2 weeks as they seem to have loosened slightly , I have only taken it around the block so far but ill try to take it on a run and see if it has helped , ill let you know
  5. I'll have a look thanks . Another thing I've just noticed is this , one of the track rod ends is split and I can literally turn the shock absorber towards me by about 20 degrees , where the other end of the shock absorber meets the chassis it is very loose , could this be the problem ? The second image is it as it stands and the third illustrates how far forward it can be pulled forward/pushed back .
  6. Brake pedal seems fine , how do I check the clearance on the master cylinder please
  7. Ok bearings seem ok , ive taken the tunnel out and I think it's the front prop there is slight play on the spline , is there anyway to check performance without front prop on ? The ujs look like carp and as I say there is a bit of play in spline , haven't managed to get it off yet .
  8. Would the brakes go out of adjustment ? I will have to remove both wheels and hubs , to be fair I was applying the brakes quite a bit on a lot of steep hills , it may just be that the shoes need replacing , I'm just going to have to get stuck in and see . I'll let you know , thanks
  9. I've just driven 250 miles in the series 3 swb , the majority of the journey was great , however nearing home at low speeds the Landy was a bit juddery as if a tyre was flat , it was never in 4 wd only 2wd , I got home and lifted the front wheels one at a time and turned them , the front prop did turn , however the wheels were very stiff and didnt actually spin, they could turn but not freely , is there anything obvious here , I've recently replaced both bearing and there is no grinding or noise when rotating , also they have been good for a number of weeks .
  10. Thanks but it's just hypothetical at the moment .
  11. I know this is subjective but I will explain my circumstances , my series 3 has just passed its MOT with no advisories , I had the head gasket done 2 years ago , it's got a new exhaust is in "good" condition and is 3 years from being mot/tax free . I have a second car which is worth about £500 , which I use every day ( 1L petrol saver ) . I was thinking of selling both and getting a 90 , I will then only have to pay one lot of MOT ,Tax, insurance. My wife says I shouldn't as I know my series is good ( head gasket ) but it's mine so she says I can do what I want . If I sell my series 3 , as it is in good nick and near to free tax MOT for approx £4800 could I get a decent 90 ? The deciding factors really are that the 90 would need to do a lot better than the does 17 mpg that the series does as it would be for everyday use also if I look after it will a 90 appreciate in value ? . I am really thinking of breaking even on the tax/insurance as I'll only be insuring the 90 .i know it's a matter of opinion but is it viable to sella series and have enough cash for a decent 90?
  12. Yeah , I'll do that , I've seen a post on it , my series even has the hole cut out of the gearstick casing so it's easy enough
  13. Panel lights seem to come on when sidelights are switched on anyway so this switch seems redundant and as stated wire didn't go anywhere anyway? . I will use a new switch with feed from fuse so will remove this switch as it's not doing anything and replace with a switch that I can use to turn on reverse light when I am reversing , I will make it illuminated so that I don't forget to turn it off . I'm assuming that's ok for future MOTS?
  14. I am going to fit a reverse light into the series , I know I can put a switch in the gearstick casing , however I am just going to mount it on the dash instead , today I opened up the panel and the switch that has the small clock / dial picture on it ( I think it was for interior lights at some point which I don't have ) literally had a wire coming from it that went nowhere ? Just a single wire . Am I right in thinking that if I want to use this switch position ( keeping it tidy ) that I need to legally have an illumination switch as a reverse switch , I remember reading something once , it is either a legal requirement or a guideline to help prevent leaving it on , thanks.
  15. That is a work of art and a complete nightmare all at the same time .
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