Tom Grant

Hello everyone. My wagon developed a wining noise last week, upon inspection I did find that the near side front wheel bearing race had been spinning inside the hub, the swivel seal and swivel to axle oil seal had failed. This led to the wheel bearing drying up and S**ting itself ( don’t buy cheap wheel bearings was the lesson learnt there). After fitting a new swivel seal and new hub and bearings the noise is now less aggressive but whining is still occurring at intermittent times. I have a sneaky suspicion that my front final drive or differential is on its way out. If anybody has experienced this first hand and can confirm that it could possibly be the diff that would be fantastic so i can look into the issue. many thanks Tom

Truro Area was going to go to fwb at ThreeMilestone industrial estate

Hello everyone I want to replace the old corroded bolts for all the rear suspension parts, bottom link, top link, a frame etc.. do these need to be a specific grade. Can they be stainless? I’ll be sourcing all the bolts from a local supplier. if anybody had any information it’s greatly appreciated. Cheers!

So I’ve bit the bullet and replacing the whole assembly and changing the wheel inside of the wiper motor this should hopefully eliminate the slack issue! thanks to everyone who came up with suggestions. A great community!

Hello everyone. Need to fix the slack I have in the wiper system as the wiper arm keeps hitting the gutter under the windscreen! im wondering if it is slack in the wheel box and spline or if it’s the wiper link inside the wiper motor. If anybody has experienced this before and knows where it would have slack first that would be appreciated. Or if it’s easier just replace the whole lot to be sure? Thanks Tom

That would be interesting for sure 😂

Hello everyone! Im currently installing a mudstuff centre console to which I am adding a number of carling switches. What I am trying to do is wire in the illumination to the switches, so that when I turn on the lights they are lit up. Now I’m no expert when it comes to electrics so please bare with me in this 😂. if anybody could explain to me what to find and how to connect this up? cheers Tom

Yes I have the injectors in and the gasket is the correct thickness.

Checked the valves using rule of nine hopefully all is good! Thanks everyone!

Just checking the valve clearances I believe they should be checked in the firing order 1342? Correct me if I’m wrong. I haven’t yet put oil in the system is this a must? This is my first time playing with engines so please bare with me haha

Just recently changed the head gasket and wanted to manually turn the engine but it appears to be very tight and click then becomes easy to turn. I would massively appreciate anybody who could tell me if this is either normal or if there is an issue in hand! cheers Tom IMG_0781.MP4

I didn’t no, I will be keeping an eye on it for the meantime but I never found the cause 😬, the splines on the cv joints where very warn, it looks like they have been on their way out for a while along with the splines on the wheel flanges, they too where very warn!

Hi chaps, my apologies for not replying been fairly busy and just completely forgot to be honest. Happy to report its all back up and running and seems to be okay! what i replaced: Half-shafts, CV joints, stub axles, wheel bearings, drive shaft wheel flanges, both callipers along with new pads, fresh oil and brake fluid. As i once said i had never done anything like this before, i'm only 19 😂 But i'm confident that with a little engineering knowledge and following the Haynes manual, the work i did is up to standard. For those of you who suggested the later system of the bearing nuts, i see your point but i'm happy with the two nut system and seems to work perfectly fine so i shall keep it that way. Thanks to all of you for the advice and knowledge, was a massive help!

Does anybody know the reason for why the near side is an abs cv and the off side is non abs cv? Just want to make sure I’m ordering the correct parts.

Fantastic. Thank you very much! I’ll post the outcome when it’s all fitted. Cheers!

thats a great tip, i didn't know that so thank you. its been a first for me stripping out the half shafts so been a bit of an experience for me. i've got a big order as while i'm at it my pads need replacing as well as wheel bearings and drive flanges. Really appreciate all the help!! As far as putting it all back together, is there anything i should be aware of that needs doing, will i need to pre load the axles when the the adjuster nuts go back on?

Okay gents after finally pulling out the cv joints and half shafts I’ve found my issue (see attached images) looks to me like the cv joints are a bit tired. 😂

Okay so after a week of sh*t weather I’ve been reluctant to get under but now I’ve had a look I believe its the mechanism it’s self not engaging unlocked properly, which would explain the obscene amount of play in the stick which I never really noticed until now. Sorting it out this weekend! Massively appreciate all the advice and help. ill be sure to post an update once it’s sorted! Tom

I’ve tried both forward and revers in both low and high when disengaging diff lock, the warning light does go out. Doesn’t matter what gear I’m in I still get the grinding sound, all propshafts turn!

cheers guys, will take a look at the mechanism first, fingers crossed its something silly!

Hello I drove my 1995 300dti 110 through a deep river but nothing to serious only came up the the top of the wheel, i didn't stop and kept a constant pace. the river was only two meters wide. for this i selected high range locked diff ( right choice, maybe, maybe not). When getting out on the other side with no issues i proceeded to put the car back into working diff, and this is when i had the issue! I could select the right ratio however when trying to pull away it made a horrible grinding sound and i had no drive what so ever (absolutely nothing) put it back into locked diff and i have drive. so my problem is i am now stuck in locked diff, both high and low ratio work fine. Both high and low in working differential both slot to where they should however when selecting any gear i have the grinding sound!! any ideas on what the problem might be???

Hello all. Im a new member and have a question! Im currently turning my 110 CSW into a camper, I still want the use of the rear seats however I want to utilise the space underneath. So my question is, can I fabricate a box to fit the length of the second row seats out of metal, removing the existing legs and brackets then mount the seats on top of the new frame/ box. Is this legal, will they need to be crash tested at all? Any knowledge on the subject is greatly appreciated! cheers.