Ok after spending the last 48 hours scouring all sorts of forums and topics I cannot find a solution to my immobilised Range Rover problem so I'll give you the full story and see if anyone can help.
I have a Range Rover 2002 51 plate 4.0 HSE, last of the P38's. Returned from a 2 week holiday and it was dead. Not partially, but completely dead. No red flashing alarm led, no response to key fob, nothing. So I performed a manual unlock, remove battery, trickle charge overnight, re-connect battery - Engine Immobilised, please use remote or enter key code message on trying to start her up.
What I've tried:
EKA Procedure - have a 4 digit code on my security card, but it's written as "Key No" not in the "Emergency Key Access" code section. However I've called 2 separate dealers, one who I quoted the code to and they confirmed it was the EKA, another whom I requested the EKA from and they verified the code I have. So I have to assume this is the correct code at this moment.
There seems to be a couple of variations of this procedure on-line, and the AA chappie who looked at the car on Sunday also verified this from their Vixen system,
4 turns anticlockwise to lock position then
1st number turns clockwise to open,
2nd number turns ACW to lock,
3rd number turns CW to open,
4th number turns ACW to lock, then
One turn to open and alarm should be disarmed, start vehicle.
For each of the above ensuring it's performed slowly, going to full extent in each direction returning to centre at each turn.
I've also tried other variation of this, i.e. turn to lock and hold for 10 seconds first, then enter code and reversing the turn directions for each digit (seems to be a LHD/RHD confusion).
All doors and tailgate + bonnet are shut when doing this.
None of the above is working for me, but I have some observations:
At the original point of battery re-connect, drivers door was shut (didn't read until afterwards I wasn't supposed to do that) and neither key fob operated the doors. Have read that a battery disconnect and re-connect with the drivers door open and the key in the ignition at position 2 might get around this, not for me.
I am not getting any beeps or sounds at all from the alarm system whilst doing this (some posts refer to hearing the mis-lock if you abort the procedure half way through etc, no matter what I do I hear nothing.)
The key turns are supposed to be acknowledged by corresponding illumination of the indicator lights on the dash, I see nothing. (tried with window down as well in case I just wasn't seeing it)
When I disconnect and re-connect the battery, even with driver door open and ignition at position 2, the car immediately goes into keycode lockout.
When opening the door manually the alarm led is flashing quickly for about 10 seconds and then slowing back down to it's normal "armed" pulse rate.
When opening or closing the doors or bonnet, all indicators flash for about 15 seconds.
Read that the door handle position could cause the the key turns not to be send, so I'm making sure the handle is fully returned.
Got the door trim off to check that the wires are definately connected to the microswitches for the handle (which they appear to be, if someone could confirm that no wires go directly up to the handle itself but rather to the actual lock mechanism halfway down the door, they appear to be plugged in ok).
After you turn the key the first 4 times to go into "EKA entry mode" should you get some kind of indication that it's ready for the code?
So that's where I'm up to. Can find anything else that I've not tried online, and I'm bl00dy reluctant to have to get it into a dealer just because the battery went flat! I can see the pound signs in their eyes already.
Any further suggestions would be greatly appreciated, I'm also trying to find out if there is a way to simulate the electrical pulses to the BECM unit (that must be getting sent when you turn the key) as the complete lack of indication of key turns is making me suspect that there is some kind of issue with the door microswitches themselves.
Martin