Mediamab

So have made decision (maybe longer term I’ll go bigger and bolder ha) but for now gonna do a rebuild of the engine with some new pistons to up compression and new cam etc and get it to top condition. Was just doing it’s finally run to move into a sensible place to start taking the engine out… As you guys mentioned I bought an infra red temp gauge and it does seem to be getting a bit too hot. If I read temp of the cylinder head the right side is reading 15-20degrees higher, it’s also the side I’m pretty sure the tapping is from. Would that temperature indicate a head gasket failure? Struggling to think of other reason for such a variance and I checked it many times ha! side note - will start a build thread soon rather than lots of new topics as I am sure I’ll be looking for help

@FridgeFreezer yeah definitely if I do a swap I plan to retain engine/gearbox for sure. Ive noticed the 4.0 is far easier to get hold of than a 3.9. The one I shared the other day they'll do a nice amount lower and thats the price of stage 1 heads on my 3.5 and value difference is huge between those 2!!

Bar the the galv chassis and a bit of a dodgy respray (removal of CSW stickers and added chequer plate) it is pretty much standard but has obviously already move somewhat away from it. Which is why im fighting with just improving / restoring than just starting from scratch, even though some steps already taken beyond original by others...

Will definitely be following to find out the results!! 🙂

Thanks both! Yeah I think if I go down the “not worried about original” I probably would long term want to change the gearbox. I’m just really fighting with whether to stay original, and make it the best it can be. Just something nice about it being original 1988 engine and gearbox and only done 80k miles

So a quick question if I went 4.6 is the LT85 and LT230 up to spec for an engine with far greater torque and hp? Just trying to compare budgets now a change is in my head ha

Yeah that doesn’t sound fun! Assume you’d lean towards a car with an engine then? My only annoyance with that is the space for the car and also what to then do with it ha. I’d love a totally rebuilt engine, with warranty that I know is great as if I upgrade it’s for long term just $$ which is why the one in link caught my eye as it’ll be cheaper direct too

Yeah I’m just slightly wary by the time I’ve gone through the engine and replaced parts that are likely or cry at a slipped liner then maybe an engine replacement is financially better. Flipside I assume the EFI would be suitable for my 3.5. Apparently it’s the kit below. Would this require me to replace inlet manifold too? I guess a new fuel pump for higher pressure? Sniper EFI

As an alternative to my carb. Has anyone used the Holly Sniper EFI? A friend knows someone who may be selling his and wandering if now’s a sensible time to switch? He also shared the below off eBay (which I know goes against all I’ve said ha there’s just part of me that feels rather than spending a penny on what I have (and a lot of time!), make the switch now) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/195967907580?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=rbzVwinIQDW&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=9FsqrjJWROa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Ah ok not heard of the colour tune so will take a look at that!👍

I haven’t got to replacing the fuel pump yet as it seemed to stop making any funny noises and wasn’t 100% sure noises were it. makes sense re continuing to run and yes exactly what I meant

I was also just looking and the standard fuel pump in tank for my v8 is PRC7019 and looking at details it appears to be 0.14 bar (2Psi) which I believe is lower than edlebrock advised pressure?

Yeah I think for now I’m going to stick to getting this engine in good shape and running as it should rather than changing and I can then see what it’s really like! So the tapping is only able to be heard when idling with a warm engine, appreciate it may likely still be there under load. Sounds like fuelling may also be causing it to cut out, interestingly it did fine on the final journey home but I was going very steady, maybe less than 25mph. Never cuts out idling. Interestingly I would say the truck makes a very strong smell of petrol (no visible leaks) but I’ve been putting this down to just as it’s a v8 petrol but now wandering if that’s part of issue? Also the oil change was very black, again though I don’t have details of last service, just know it was all rebuilt 8k miles ago. i assume fuelling can be the setup of carb, incorrect needles etc? (Mostly goes over me but I’m very keen to learn!) with regards to timing does anyone know of a good (correct!) YouTube video or detailed write up that will help me get it spot on?1

Good to know re the different engines. Need to think on this more as part of me does just love idea of carrying on with the current engine and having that originality though obviously the other models bring the benefits. Also worry I could end up with an engine that could still need a lot of work unless I splash out on a rebuilt engine. Did spot the below on eBay…. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/276210124896?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=c0KgWvspT7q&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=9FsqrjJWROa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Ah ok, will bare this in mind then when digging into the engine. I assume when you say the vacuum advance, do you mean you had to replace the dizzy? Engine was rebuilt 8k miles ago and can’t get the details so do worry how good a job was done!

Na timing I haven’t got to, need to get a gun ordered as I agree it’s likely not helping. I guess a part of me likes that it’s original and I’m not after serious bhp and so improving in its current size would be nice. But I would like it to feel like it wants to try and move ha I was doing a lot of searching and appeared Torquemax cam and stage 1 heads would hopefully bring me to 180bhp or would you say that’s just very unlikely.

Are the larger engines pretty much a straight swap? I was looking at the 3.9, I didn’t know if my carb setup can just switch across? Also looking around didn’t seem to be that common bar companies selling very expensive rebuilds. is the 3.5, being low compression, just going to see little improvement then with a new cam and stage 1 heads? I really do feel somewhat I am not seeing the performance from my current engine as it should stock though, it lacks little to no get up and go, overtaking would be impossible.

Yeah not suggesting I’d skip checking all the simpler items…. Previously cooling has all been fine, no leaks, can see the instant the thermostat kicks in as temperature goes down suddenly and top pipe gets hot. Fans working fine, cowling all fitted, no leaks, no collapsed or damaged pipes. Cooling system does pressurise for sure as have opened once when still quite hot and helps a decent pressure for sure. Water pump shoots water out (with pipe removed and quick crank) so that seems fine. Rads replaced 3 years ago and seems very good condition. Does the sender match the gauge, agree it would appear not. I’ve ordered an IR thermometer to see what it says re temperatures.

It sounds like with the tapping sound, potential blown head gasket and my initial hopes to change the cam and fit stage 1 head that maybe it’s time to go with that work and take any other issues I come to. I assume it’s actually best to remove the engine from the truck? I feel that would be simpler and allow a good clean, paint of under the hood and sort electrics out too. How hard is the process to remove the engine? (Appreciate id need a crane etc)

ah ok well one good thing then

I assume the lack of cold pressure suggests an issue with head gasket too? I guess if I can’t find any obvious leak then symptoms mixed with the white smoke leans that way? It may well be time I accept to start getting into the engine to solve this issues im having..?

If I undo the header tank cold there doesn’t appear to be any pressure, no hiss or anything to suggest relieving it. Assume that’s what you mean? Would/could the head gasket cause the issue I had with the engine cutting out when driving? Or that more likely electrical?

Yeah I couldn’t see any coolant leaks at all from the hoses. I’ll have a fresh look in the day light tho to see if any signs!

No it was about 45mins after the boiling

Yeah it’s on my list though I guess this is proven it’s off and mid way means boiling point! just got the standard viscous fan im wandering with that smoke if its a blown head gasket? I guess could also be cause of the tapping and lack of power?