ashtray
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Posts posted by ashtray
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would cherry work?
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well i think on my td5 dash it would look awesome! Gd Work!
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http://www.amazon.co.uk/Campingaz-86182-BlueCat-Heater/dp/B000ZJ97C8
:-)
I have used one to "preheat" my landy before, make sure it doesnt fall over though. Works brilliant in a tent!
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cooling tower gearboxes...?
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put an ammeter between the earth terminal and the earth clamp with everything switched off, anything 0.5amp is too much and will drain it if left for a couple of days. But make sure you don't operate anything within the vehicle. Most multimeters have an in-built fuse that blows at 10 amps and they arn't the easiest thing to get hold of, or cheap if i remember. Our meters at work have an external trip fuse which operates at 7.5amps just to eliminate blowing up the meter.
I work on mercs and when you remove the key a lot of the 50 odd control units are still "awake" so finding current draws can be a real pain in the arse. And you cant just unplug everything until the load disappears as this can wake up other control units. Oh and there are shared fuses that usually have about 5 things running off of them. NIGHTMARE!
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I have seen batteries before losing cells. One minute it will be a good 12.5V, the next a poorly 4V. Batteries usually last 3-5 years in my experience in the trade. Anything over this and your battery has had a good life.
Make sure you haven't got any quiescent current draw issues whilst your there which could be causing your battery to go flat. You state that yours is a petrol so due to its age and simplicity there should be no residual current draw from the battery unless you have an alarm fitted.
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that looks pukka that! Tbh i have no idea what the council will do, most likely the cheapest possible solution i.e corrugated plastic...
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i would but the roof is bowed. it would pool up and bring the roof down on my landy! I think the only thing stopping the roof pooling up and coming down is the holes! Horrible stuff asbestos, it was inspected when i originally complained but a not so keen builder turned and just said "nah i aint touching that, its buggared!" and thats all ive heard so far. it would normally be £50/month but for the 6months since i've moved in its been free so i cant complain too much!
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mine is garaged. but still gets a soaking every night.. Holed asbestos roof. Phoned the council up, they will inspect it and until then its rent free, 4 months later and i think they have forgotten about. now I have another dilemma, leaky roof or free garage...?
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Ive had my viscous removed from my td5 since last winter! no problems with overheating at all. warms up slightly quicker in the morning and is "marginally" better on fuel. I have taken it up some pretty steep inclines for long periods at slow speed high revs and no issues so far!
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As far as i can remember you cant, the Engine Control Unit reads the transfer box speed to register a speed. if this doesnt match engine speed and factory setup it switches off. i have cruise on mine and i love it, i use a 200tdi disco window switch to operate it. a recommended fit for long journeys, easy to wire up too!
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Is there any definitive way of testing these mounts are worn out, my 90 is very vibey, much more so than my mates 55plate. mine is an '03 90 with 76k. Whats the average life expectancy of these in miles/age?
Thankyou
Ash
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Well I've spent the best part of an evening randomly poking and pulling on things underneath, and I can't find anything really standing out, apart from the flexible joint in the down pipe creaks when bent. I can't get the cat to rattle by hitting it but do u reckon this could be the noise? It's a very harmonic tinny rattle, and it happens almost precisely at high revs, doesn't necessarily need to be under load but is more apparent when going up through the gears. It sounds like gears rattling to me, almost like the clutch bearing is chattering? But it does it even with the clutch down
Cheers
Ash
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Big strips of Velcro on the inside? At least then it's removeable if required. Those White plastic trim clips are an arse to put in aswell! Large hammer required! And they are not really reuseable.
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I know what u mean, it does sound similar, if only it was that noise, what a simple fix that would be!
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Sounds like a recipe for disaster to me, very explosive mixture. I'm afraid you're trying to make free energy here, which doesn't exist, it requires just as much energy in electrical form, if not more to split water into it's elements, therefore you shouldn't be gaining any energy. Energy is never created nor is it lost, it can only change state, fuel is stored energy, it is burnt to create thermal energy and the internal combustion engine turns this into kinetic energy, along with a lot of wasted heat and sound energy. If it's such a good idea, why havnt car manufacturers already implemented such a device
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Hello chaps. Got a gearbox rattle from my 03 90 td5. I've had the rattle a long time now and it hasn't got any worse, just got more on my tits. But I can't find it!! It happens at high revs in all gears, I can't tell you the exact revs but at 60-65mph in 5th is where it really gets on song. At 70 the car is massively quieter. I can also get the rattle in neutral by revving hard. It seems to come from the tunnel area and is a tinny metallic rattle. The propshafts are spot on before I get a telling off for not greasing them, I have learnt my lessons from lack of propshafts husbandry..
I have no other rattles, the car has done 73k miles now. I cannot reduce the rattle in any way by wrestling with either of the gear levers. And it does it with the clutch down.
Any ideas?
Many thanks!
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More that the immobiliser is the last defense after the pathetic door locks, the immobiliser is the only thing stopping people driving off with your landy, all they have to do is swap your ecu...
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Check your interior grey trim panels are definitely not the cause first. Mine were. I got told by a window tinter friend of mine that they are special rivets and that he always orders genuine items
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Worrying item on eBay
Hope it doesn't end up in the wrong hands...
On a lighter note, a mate of mine at work said the police raided a yard in Kent and found 38 stolen defenders along with many other stolen parts. I hope they all find their rightful owners!
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It's disconnected, but only at the electrical connection to both the solenoids, I havnt noticed any difference in performance from unplugging them though
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Good evening chaps!
Ever since owning my td5 90 I've never really been that impressed with the "performance" of it. And recently it's developed what I believe is a fault. It happens mainly uphill under load, I'll back off for a second and then the turbo lag is increased massively over normal operation, it almost seems to bog down or decelerate when I increase the throttle opening. So I've carried out some tests, I've unplugged the air mass sensor, (3 month old genuine item) and noticed slightly improved throttle response, I then disconnected the MAP sensor and the responsiveness has Improved quite notably, disconnecting the both at the same time obviously results in very dismal performance. Could anyone enlighten me with their opinion based on my findings. I have also checked the turbo actuator, which moves freely, although requiring quite a bit of force to move it as I assume it is sprung shut.
Thank you!
Ash
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I wouldn't, diesel acts a lubricant with diesel fuel pumps, and seeing as td5 fuel pumps last 5 mins with the correct fuel running through I wouldnt like to use it with petrol
Exhaust
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I agree also.
Just fitted a decat pipe and "cherry-bomb" (straight through but slightly silenced) centre pipe to my td5. Sounds the nuts now, and not too intrusive either. My mate had the same setup on a 300tdi. They sound pretty good too, turbo whistle is awesome :-)