ashtray
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Posts posted by ashtray
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Excellent Stuff! If i get time to do it tomorrow i shall let you know how i get on, luckily its the offside so a slightly shorter shaft to pull out from the diff
Cheers Everyone!
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yeah i had no luck when i looked, could only find information on rebuilding swivels, nothing on changing just the swivel gaitor
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evening chaps!
anyone know if its possible to replace the swivel oil seal by unbolting the swivel from the axle tube with everything still attached to the hubs bar the calliper?
Cheers!
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cheers western!
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Thankyou very much Western! I shall have to bookmark that site so i wont need to ask again
Cheers Dude!
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Hiya, wondering if anyone knows the part no. for a 2002 90 station wagon rear trim clips, the small trim surrounding the rear small windows. There are 2 of these clips per side and they friction fit the the bodywork, cannot find them anywhere so if anyone knows the part no. or where to find them it would be fantastic!
Cheers
Ash
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Fill the system with your coolant mix with the heater set to hot, run the engine, and loosen the screw on the top hose, but not all the way, just enough to let the air out, when no more air is coming from the bleed screw the system is bled, your heater should be kicking out heat by now, sometimes air locks can be quite difficult to bleed but just keep releasing that bleed screw until all is good
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Hiya, anyone know the part number for the seal that wipes the chrome swivels? Is there a rubber section and a metal section to the seal? for a 2002 Defender 90
Many Thanks
Ash
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its on the bottom hose, and its inside a white ( i think) tube, has about 3 pipes coming off, should be fairly obviously, bottom right if you looking at the front of the vehicle
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hello there, hope this might be of information, i recently borrowed a cheap blue point scanner from my snap-on dealer and tried it on my 2002 td5 defender and got no response from it, which i was expecting as the box said 2004 diesels onwards, so i gave it back to him, tried my mates snap-on scanner (about a grands worth) which required a special translator chip to be plugged in and i got pretty much all the info out of it i could ever need. Basically from what i know, early defenders dont have the normal Generic fault code output that later diesels are required to do for some european law so therefore a more specific scanner is required, i.e a nanocom/hawkeye or a decent scanner with the correct chip installed. I hope this can be of help. Oh and also, different scanners pickup different amounts of information, my mates snap-on one picked up only the engine e.c.u whereas the proper landrover equipment should pickup the engine, the immobiliser and whatever extras you have, be it traction and things like that. The snap-on scanner only showed a few sensors readings though, just the main basic ones, nothing like a full on landy scanner will show.
Ash
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whats the mileage? service history good?
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I was always taught to use the multimeter in series between the batteries negative terminal and its Earth Lead, is this where a battery isolator is fitted normally?
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i would just like to point out that my local bridleway is impassable by foot, and thinking about it, i wouldnt even consider driving along it (if it was legally allowed) without having mud terrain tyres fitted. This route is not in regular use by horses but it has been turned into a bog because of its use, by horses, in wet conditions. I dont see a traffic order temporarily halting horses from using this route, even though it is used by walkers a lot. I could guarantee you that if motor vehicles had caused this amount of damage to the route it would have been closed off.
How typical of countryfile to find the best characters suited at expressing how responsible they are at driving off road. I can just picture John Craven waving his walking stick at my vehicle along a greenlane. I bet his blood pressure goes through the roof seeing a car driving through the countryside.
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You can get some tyre valves which let the air out under centrifugal force but only when they are left in a certain position. Cant remember where to get them from but make sure you switch them off when your in it!
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If your meaning timing chain, then i would change it when it gets noisy, although LR do say that at roughly 200k's you should replace it as a service item. Duplex Chains do last a very long time, you could inspect the slack in the chain just in case its stretched so far that the auto adjuster is at its max setting but i believe you would have running issues if it got that bad.
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awesome thanks Challo!
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boost pressure sensor, should read roughly up to 1.5bar. cant remember off my head what td5s boost at. check the readings on your hawkeye
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Check the "p-gasket" its on the alternater side of the block, its a bitch to get at but you should be able to spot any leaks down there
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alright fellas!
Looking at ordering a set of 4 265/75 cooper stt's on Steel silver modulars. However their website doesnt show what offset the modulars are.
what offset do you reckon im gonna get? Ideally i want +8mm
Cheers guys!
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mmm looks fun! and if i ruin it ill take it to land rovers uk!
Thanks all!
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ooo they look good! Anyone know if its possible to get hold of repair sections for the lower frames?
Definately getting hold of some dinitrol wax. I have used hammerite kurust before but it did naff all
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haha "trans-fender" havnt heard that one before!
Just waiting on my switch now. Nice to see that the cables attached to it can be put on in any order!
Also found some rust in the bottom of my doors :-(
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Ok so i noticed some rust on the bottoms of my door frames today and decided to take the door cards off to investigate further. You guessed it, i found more rust! So they are structually sound still, but looking pretty messy and if i leave them i will be needing new doors eventually. What do you reckon i should do and what are the best products out there to "cure" and prevent rust. Obviously i will need to get rid of as much rust as possible using a wire brush slash similar item. Also whilst i was there i noticed a water collecter and tube assembly that looks like its fallen off the inside of the door, looks like a hopeless piece of kit as it just collects water from the window seal and then lets it drip on the door bottom again. The outer door skins are in excellent condition so i dont really want to replace the frame and transfer the door as that just looks like a MISSION, and im sure that in the process i'll wreck the skins.
So... What do you know about rust?
Thankyou!
Ash
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well yeah i am a techy on mercs so i see ecu's failing everyday pretty much. I have never in my life seen such **** wipers on a car that was made in the 21st century though...
swivel oil seal replacement
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Job Complete!
Took around two hours to do, at a slow pace, and was quite an easy job (apart from nearly getting a hernia lifting the hub assembly)
If i have to replace the seals again this is definately the method i am going to use
Cheers everyone!