Corris110SW

Turned out to be the ECU… 💩 Had a friend show up with his “special” one that has the immobilizer turned off in it and started straight away…

Tried crimping them a little but without any effect. When I manually override the coil in the fuel pump relay I can hear it going.. If this info is of any importance..

Can anyone please explain what is the sequence of operation or more like sequence of energization? Just the necessary part in order to get the juice in the right places in order to be able to start? What power, resistance etc. needs to be measured where… What all needs to be energized and what can be left disconnected as I don’t have to door switches on yet, any interior or exterior lights, wiper motors w washer pumps, Centre console with switches… Could any of the above affect the start up? What would need to be wrong with the engine wiring loom in order to get my symptoms? Is there any way to test the ECU if she’s dead or not? Just not ready to give up on her yet even tho she’s getting all the fingers pointed at her.. As she was removed from a working vehicle kept very safe during the rebuild and put back… All inputs / suggestions are greatly appreciated!

As I was afraid, the harness is no longer available. So back to square 1.

I’ve checked and replaced the 3 relays I have under the passenger seat next to the ECU, had a earth jumpers going all around.. I’ve decided to go for a new bulkhead wiring loom in my case part no. YMC500940. Hopefully the supplier won’t come back to me saying it’s no longer available. Could my problems be caused by the DEFENDER ENGINE WIRING HARNESS - in my case part no. YSB000862 (EGR, no aircon)?

Thank you for your replies. ECU seems to be getting power ok, grounds are good, traced extra 6mm2 core wire from battery negative to two bulkhead earthing points on the front, to the bottom one where it originally connects to the chassis, over to the seat box, from there to the gearbox and the fuse / relay box in front of the gear stick. Small update, managed to get power to the OBD - fuse😒 From there I was able to use my LYNX diagnostic to get the EKA code (just in case as I didn’t had it noted down anywhere). The immobilizer LED in the speedo is working now - flashes rapidly when armed, then goes to steady slower flashing after few secs… Can’t connect to the ECU but…

Gentlemen, Hope some of you Td5 Jedi masters will be able to end my agony. I’ve a pretty well rebuilt 2004 110 SW Defender (LHD). Started with a galvanized and powder coated chassis, everything bar the engine fully rebuild or new, but now after just over a year most of the parts back on it won’t start😭😭 Turning the key into position ll lights up a red OIL light and a red BATTERY light only! No fuel pump sound! (New and confirmed working by forcing its relay to close manually). The engine is cranking but won’t fire up💔 Things that might matter: - New DENSO starter, new DENSO alternator, new VDO fuel pump + lines, new VDO MAS sensor, new injector harness - No central locking - No power in the OBD port - Fuses all checked - Relays appear to be working as they should* (when tested with 12V directly from the battery) - battery voltage 12,4V - Immobilizer + fob present - I don’t get the red or red flashing light in the speedometer: when arming the immobilizer with the fob the dash indicates by both indicators flashing 3 times (when I try to start then - both indicators keep flashing on the dash for few seconds along with the CHECK ENGINE light that stays on constantly and can’t even crank the engine), when disarming both indicators flash 1x on the dash (when I attempt to start, the engine cranks but doesn’t start, no fuel pump sound…💩 Please help🙏