Corris110SW Posted September 9, 2023 Share Posted September 9, 2023 (edited) Gentlemen, Hope some of you Td5 Jedi masters will be able to end my agony. I’ve a pretty well rebuilt 2004 110 SW Defender (LHD). Started with a galvanized and powder coated chassis, everything bar the engine fully rebuild or new, but now after just over a year most of the parts back on it won’t start😭😭 Turning the key into position ll lights up a red OIL light and a red BATTERY light only! No fuel pump sound! (New and confirmed working by forcing its relay to close manually). The engine is cranking but won’t fire up💔 Things that might matter: - New DENSO starter, new DENSO alternator, new VDO fuel pump + lines, new VDO MAS sensor, new injector harness - No central locking - No power in the OBD port - Fuses all checked - Relays appear to be working as they should* (when tested with 12V directly from the battery) - battery voltage 12,4V - Immobilizer + fob present - I don’t get the red or red flashing light in the speedometer: when arming the immobilizer with the fob the dash indicates by both indicators flashing 3 times (when I try to start then - both indicators keep flashing on the dash for few seconds along with the CHECK ENGINE light that stays on constantly and can’t even crank the engine), when disarming both indicators flash 1x on the dash (when I attempt to start, the engine cranks but doesn’t start, no fuel pump sound…💩 Please help🙏 Edited September 9, 2023 by Corris110SW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escape Posted September 9, 2023 Share Posted September 9, 2023 The TD5 fuel pump is controlled by the ECU. It sounds like none of the ECU functions are working (like glowplugs and OBD). The starter motor is independently switched, which explains why the engine is cranking but not starting. I would start by checking all connections to the engine ECU, making sure all grounds are good. Also check the inertia switch hasn't been triggered (or left disconnected). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Def Harry Posted September 9, 2023 Share Posted September 9, 2023 Check power and earths for the ecu. However this sounds incredibly similar to what happened to me after leaving my TD5 parked in a field for a week. ECU had spontaneously expired. Replacement ecu, fired up straightaway and has been fine since. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corris110SW Posted September 10, 2023 Author Share Posted September 10, 2023 Thank you for your replies. ECU seems to be getting power ok, grounds are good, traced extra 6mm2 core wire from battery negative to two bulkhead earthing points on the front, to the bottom one where it originally connects to the chassis, over to the seat box, from there to the gearbox and the fuse / relay box in front of the gear stick. Small update, managed to get power to the OBD - fuse😒 From there I was able to use my LYNX diagnostic to get the EKA code (just in case as I didn’t had it noted down anywhere). The immobilizer LED in the speedo is working now - flashes rapidly when armed, then goes to steady slower flashing after few secs… Can’t connect to the ECU but… Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave88sw Posted September 10, 2023 Share Posted September 10, 2023 If you get no engine management light with the ignition then the ecu isn't powering up, 2 quick things to check, one is the main relay, it's in the seat box with the ecu, the other is the earth stud in the base of that box, try sticking a jump lead between there and the negative of the battery. Otherwise i'd be suspicious of the ecu. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corris110SW Posted September 14, 2023 Author Share Posted September 14, 2023 (edited) I’ve checked and replaced the 3 relays I have under the passenger seat next to the ECU, had a earth jumpers going all around.. I’ve decided to go for a new bulkhead wiring loom in my case part no. YMC500940. Hopefully the supplier won’t come back to me saying it’s no longer available. Could my problems be caused by the DEFENDER ENGINE WIRING HARNESS - in my case part no. YSB000862 (EGR, no aircon)? Edited September 14, 2023 by Corris110SW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corris110SW Posted September 14, 2023 Author Share Posted September 14, 2023 As I was afraid, the harness is no longer available. So back to square 1. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corris110SW Posted September 14, 2023 Author Share Posted September 14, 2023 Can anyone please explain what is the sequence of operation or more like sequence of energization? Just the necessary part in order to get the juice in the right places in order to be able to start? What power, resistance etc. needs to be measured where… What all needs to be energized and what can be left disconnected as I don’t have to door switches on yet, any interior or exterior lights, wiper motors w washer pumps, Centre console with switches… Could any of the above affect the start up? What would need to be wrong with the engine wiring loom in order to get my symptoms? Is there any way to test the ECU if she’s dead or not? Just not ready to give up on her yet even tho she’s getting all the fingers pointed at her.. As she was removed from a working vehicle kept very safe during the rebuild and put back… All inputs / suggestions are greatly appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted September 15, 2023 Share Posted September 15, 2023 15 hours ago, Corris110SW said: As I was afraid, the harness is no longer available. So back to square 1. Wires is just wires - you can cut & join / splice in / replace wires easily enough, just don't do it all in one colour, label wires as you go & only chop & join one wire at a time. A bit of glue-lined heat-shrink and spiral wrap and it can look as good as factory. Unfortunately I know nuffink about TD5's so can't help you with the rest - this will likely be something silly / minor it's not happy about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Def Harry Posted September 15, 2023 Share Posted September 15, 2023 Borrow an ECU off someone? Don't need to fully code it. In fact it would probably be sufficient just to plug it in and see if you can communicate with it via the obd2 port. Alternatively take your ECU to another defender or post to someone who can test it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted September 15, 2023 Share Posted September 15, 2023 My top-tip, as a previous Td5 Owner. The Relays may well be fine - however, what more commonly goes wrong is the contacts to the relay. If you pull out the relay carriers and remove the individual terminals, often the wires are loose where they've been crimped. Re-crimp it and put the tiniest bit of Solder on them to stop the folded tabs from loosening. The wires are better off not soldered into the terminals as this causes them to fatigue instead of just loosen. It's the vibration that does it! For half an hours work, it's worth a go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corris110SW Posted September 16, 2023 Author Share Posted September 16, 2023 20 hours ago, simonr said: My top-tip, as a previous Td5 Owner. The Relays may well be fine - however, what more commonly goes wrong is the contacts to the relay. If you pull out the relay carriers and remove the individual terminals, often the wires are loose where they've been crimped. Re-crimp it and put the tiniest bit of Solder on them to stop the folded tabs from loosening. The wires are better off not soldered into the terminals as this causes them to fatigue instead of just loosen. It's the vibration that does it! For half an hours work, it's worth a go. Tried crimping them a little but without any effect. When I manually override the coil in the fuel pump relay I can hear it going.. If this info is of any importance.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henk Posted September 16, 2023 Share Posted September 16, 2023 (edited) Did you check/eliminate the bonnet switch? The fuel pump can be easily tested by putting an earth connection to the pump relais Is the alarm still on? download the electrical circuits diagrams and the library from https://fuddymuckers.co.uk/rtfm/Defender/ Edited September 16, 2023 by henk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corris110SW Posted September 19, 2023 Author Share Posted September 19, 2023 Turned out to be the ECU… 💩 Had a friend show up with his “special” one that has the immobilizer turned off in it and started straight away… Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 19, 2023 Share Posted September 19, 2023 So it could be the immobiliser? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonpelly Posted September 19, 2023 Share Posted September 19, 2023 (edited) Sounds like decision time - Run without an immobilizer or determine which input to the immobilizer/immobilizer itself is misbehaving? In any case, sounds like significant progress 😉 Edited September 19, 2023 by simonpelly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fmmv Posted September 20, 2023 Share Posted September 20, 2023 Try Autosparks if you do need a new harness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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