John_M

Yeah good point, any idea the sort of standards they follow? I’m assuming it’s just like how the wiring passes through body/bulkhead etc. and how connections are made?

I’d rather do that, then I can install it how I want to (primarily bc I can choose where cables are routed, and so I know how and where it might fail). The other thing is, even if it’s not an insurance certified alarm, it’ll still put my mind at ease, as it will still scream at anyone who puts a hammer through the window. But it still would be nice to have it certified to lower insurance costs.

I was doing some thinking as to how much I’d have to tamper with the factory circuits during a large electronics install. Theoretically, if I installed a leisure battery, and an auxiliary fuse board (cos if I’m doing dozens of upgrades I don’t want fuse taps or inline fuses peppered all across the LR), then wouldn’t have to touch much of the stock loom. The one thing I can think of that would require some tamperage is if I were installing a CDL & alarm system, as that taps into (model dependant) the park break, foot break, indicators, ignition system and a couple of other bits. (Currently looking at hawk car alarms as they seem to have quite good features for the price point, some are even thatcham Cat. 1) But for the most part, any lighting, winching, heating or infotainment systems could be run separately off a leisure battery with just a relay trigger from the ignition when it’s set to run. That way I can spare most of the original loom from tamper/damage if I were to go in wielding wire snips.

As in radiator fans?

Would you have any links to those threads? Thanks!

Nice lockers 👌 Are the LEDs for the status of the compressor?

Ah I was looking at adding heated mirrors, but does it really make that big a difference? Yeah I was looking at adding an EGT, but I’m not sure what the advantage of knowing the exhaust temperature is, when there isn’t much you can do to control it/cool it?

To be honest I hadn't thought about doing without the mud console altogether, but I am using a 300tdi, not td5, so would you mean mounting it with just some bent plates into the dash tray?

Hi guys, I'm looking to revamp the dash in my 300tdi with the centre consoles and pods from Mudstuff, as I want to add some extra features. The main reason is to add a double din touchscreen console (if anyone has express recommendations, any advice appreciated), but obviously also to add extras like lighting controls, diesel and seat heater controls, cb radio, etc. My main question is if there is anything anyone really recommends having, like boost gauges, volt metres/split charge meters, electric windows etc, that I haven't covered, that help or improve offroading/overlanding. I'm just trying to plan how and where I would install things, and I really want to have considered all possible upgrades, before using up all available dash space and not having any room to install a really good upgrade. Also, random side note, if anyone has found any alternative to carling switches, could you share what you've found, as i just don't like the style of them, and don't want to pepper a dash with a dozen switches that I don't like the look of. Thanks, John

@ThreePointFive, does the dodo mat work to prevent condensation on the body panels, especially on places like the walls and roof? And do you happen to know which one you used? I’m surprised that the carpet lining in your footwell hasn’t worn out, I was thinking of getting one of the moulded rubber mats to cover seatbox, footwells, trans tunnel etc, but carpet would certainly be cheaper. How does it handle water dirt etc? Also, @Snagger, are the LaSelle headliners like a plastic or GRP type material, or a fibreboard type material?

Has anyone done their own headlining? Reading various forums, people often layer up camping mats to the depth of the cross members, but I’d like something a bit more substantial, like ply. Not sure how I’d get it to fit the curves of the roof tho… Basically I don’t want to shell out several hundred for a brand new headliner when I can probably get better sound and thermal insulation with aftermarket products

Sorry I should’ve been more specific, that is what I meant! Just something fairly aesthetic and not just the bare metal. Like this stuff: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stretch-Lining-Motorhome-Vehicle-Interior/dp/B09MSN1WNK/ref=asc_df_B09MSMW1CW/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=570255213015&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=826093479133564564&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006886&hvtargid=pla-1643867575094&psc=1&mcid=bea48b48708e3f3b9f252f45adb5dc98&th=1 Although maybe something slightly more robust?

Hi guys, sorry if this has already been covered, but can someone just advise me on the best ways to line the cab and the tub for comfortable journeys. By the looks of it, sound deadening and insulation are both a must. I know of Dynamat and dodomat, and they both look good, but I'm less sure as to what would work well for insulation. Closed cell foam I've seen mentioned, but lots of van conversions use the recycled bottle plastic type insulation I think (although I'm assuming that's more for packing cavities) My other question is vapour barriers. Again, I've seen them mentioned, but not sure what I should be looking for. Apparently some sound deadening materials also work as vapour barriers? My plan would be to put 4-way stretch carpet over whatever I put down, plus one of the hardwearing rubber mats from mole valley over the carpet in the bottom of the tub. Then edge protectors for around the seatboxes etc. The idea is its comfortable enough to drive regularly, but can still have chainsaws/tools/wood thrown in the back when I need to. Any suggestions?

Brilliant. Thanks so much for the advice guys. My plan is to do a test run with a small section (I'm thinking the safari door, as I've got it of at the moment to do some body work). then if all goes well, move up to the main body. Also @FridgeFreezer thanks for the tip on the static sheets, my plan was just going to be some polyurethane or painters sheets, but I think I'd prefer something that can actually attract the paint away considering the dangers of 2k, so static sheets look ideal.

So, to build a very simple plan of how i would go about doing it, going of @Eightpot's post (please correct me if I'm wrong): 1. Strip back the original LR paint with an angle grinder (something like a poly disc or high grit flap disc so i don't eat away the ally). 2. Etch prime everything 3. Sand back with 180 grit or something similar 4. Apply filler and sand back again with 300 grit 5. Apply a hi build 2k primer (with same colour as topcoat, thanks @steve b) 6. (I would say sand again but from my research I'm not sure. is this where you sand with a high grit like 1500-2000?) 7. Apply 2k topcoat And because its 2k it doesnt need a clearcoat/laquer, or buffing, because it dries with a gloss sheen Please correct any of that if its wrong!