Disco-Ron
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Posts posted by Disco-Ron
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Frax, when i rechassised mine, there were originally shims on two of the rear body mounts, and washers one both bulkhead mounts, when i fitted it to the new chassis, (body stayed in one piece!) i had no shims on the back, and one less washer each side..... the new chassis was built to tighter tolerances than the original..!!
I think if you have the option to, i would start from the back, but if you wanted to mount the bulkhead first, i'm sure you could fit a washer or two each side between the bulkhead and mounts, and then if needed you could alwasy remove the washers later on.....
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It should be that simple, however, it depends which snorkel it is as to what size hose you may need, and what length.....
So maybe you could add the make of snorkel, and what its actually fitted to... ie 200tsdi/300tdi/v8.....?
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I personelly doubt it was built by land rover, the rear axles are too close together i reckon.............
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I've checked the part numbers book, but cannot for the life of me find the number i need, i want one of the hoses on a 300tdi that goies from the top of the water pump to the thermostat housing..... only about 5 inches long, i need to replace all my hoses as they're getting brittle, but can i find this number........... nope.
Any help appreciated....
Its the little one in this link http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/300-tdi-Landrover-discovery-coolant-hoses-/150543329165?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item230d14e78d.
however i want a standard rubber jobby, not silicone.....
edited yet again, to add that i just found it.... err5099 if anyone need sit..!
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Out of interest, how are you supposed to get the one shot grease in...????????
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The countdown has started.......... 10 days now..........
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When i did mine, i actually made a list of what i wanted months before i was due to start, i then bought the bits in dribs and drabs, that way i spread the cost, plus, i got to look at a pile of new bits for long enough to get my head around what i was embarking upon..... and when i did do it, it only took two weeks.........
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just by reading the title, i was gonna suggest radius arm bushes, i prefer oem, they're designed to last, and in general they do,
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I recently swapped my 90 chassis, thread in here http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=63300.......... what i would say, is that a new chassis HAS to be the 'better' option..... however, don;t for a single minute think that the cost of the chassis will be th end of it........... by the time you've done all the 'whilst i'm doing it' things, that cost will have at least doubled......... if not more..!
However, i still say its the best option, its new, its galv, and you know what you've got, repair an old chassis, treat it with whatever anti corrosion treatment you like, but you'll never really know what the inside is like..!
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The cable idea seems to be too easy somehow..LOL.... how come you didn;t think of that yourself Simon..??...
Getting back to the 'failsafe' position, i would buck the trend and say that if it were to fail, then it should fail unlocked, i understand that that would end up with very different road handling, however, imagine if you have the thing unlocked whilst doing some serious articulation, the system faisl when the axle is at full twist, you could easily end up with a vehicle on a very big lean, as once the spline lined up, it'd click in giving a leaning vehicle, unl;ess you changed the system for some purpose built shafts/hubs, however, the biggest bonus of the whole system in my mind is the use of standard parts,..!
I'm prepared to be prooved wrong, and i do understand the fact that road handling would be compromised, however, if it failed in the middle of the desert, or a rocky road for example, and clicked into 'engaged' mode..... it could easily leave you stuck with useless articulation!
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Ah............ just aswell he got it checked, they would have failed before long!!
The brakes must have been carp, the discs would have been red hot in no time...........!!
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Holy cow............. how oin earth have they got that thin, without the pistons coming out of the calipers for one thing, but how did it never get noticed for so long............... I mean, how far can you actually travel on the Isle of Man.....!!!
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Thanks all......
pete, i have already fitted 20mm spacers, hence why i've now decided i need longer springs.... and probably shocks too, as i'm only running standard length at the moment....
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A circular fairlead will only work with rope, NOT wire...............
with the rope going out inder the floor option, you'd end up with a decent size hole in the floor to allow the wire/rope to go side to side on the winch drum, however, i suspect that rather than a 'pulley' as such under the floor, you could cope with a roller firalead if wire, or alloy if rope.......
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What about, mounting it at the front of the tub as described, but having a bracket on a sort of towbar, if you have one where a circular fairlead could be dropped in when needed, with an access flap in the rear door, freespool etc could probably be reached from the drivers seat too..... the flap in the door would need to be big enough to get the fairlead thingy through, so that it could be keopt inside with the winch.... only drawback to this is that you effectively lose the whole payload area, i have my spare wheel laid flat in the back with a lid over it so i have a totaly flat floor..... i also have a storage bin on the passenger side with strops etc in it.....
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If you understand such things, which i don;t........LOL
Whats the crack with local weighbridges, there's one a mile away, but i have no idea if i can just drive in, and onto it or what...???
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Hi all..... i currently have RR classic rear springs on my truck, as they're the tallest 'standard' springs there are, nice and soft too.... i use my truck for ALRC rtv's, and i need soft springs, however, i have found that even with these springs i don;t quite have enough height when the truck has all the gear on board.... So, what i require is taller springs, but with roughly the same spring rate, i don;t want much firmer, as that will limit articulation...... there don;t seem to be many tall and soft springs available..!
Any ideas..??
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The wheel will be too wide, i have 235's on a 7 inch rim, and even thpose on an 8 would be a bit wrong, although they would fit. the 205's being 'lower' would also make it very difficulrt to get the beads out on the wheels....
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Put a breaker bar on the crank pulley nut, if it turns initally without too much effort, plug it in and go with it -though I would think about priming the oil pump, as it could well have leaked down in 2 years...
I had a 957cc fiesta engine that got water in a plug hole whilst sitting under a bench, this clearly was not good for it, as it took a really good heave to get it to free up, no idea what it looked like inside, but it gave me another 10,000 miles before the car itself went for scrap, the engine was still going strong, albeit needing a topup every thousand miles, and a bit smokey on overrun... but the engine ran fine, even with the valves permanently dancing around on the bonnet
If it's been dry stored, i suspect it'll be fine......... i had a v8 years ago, (not a rover one) and it was seized solid.... took the heads off, the literally beat the pistons down the bores, hitting each one in turn, got it free, it smoked a bit after that, but still ran smoothly......!!
Its surprising what engines will take, and people get far too paranoid about these things, it would however be a good idea before turning it over, to remove the plugs, and put a decent teaspoon of oil down each bore, not to lubricate it, but simply to give the rings a seal to create compression..... then you could spin it over with the plugs out until the oil light goes out.... maximum say 20-30seconds at a time..... it shouldn;t take more than a few goes before the oil is pumped around....
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Looks like a lot of fun, also appears to have front fadius arms on the rear........... its not 4wheel steer aswell is it...........LOL!!
Actually, looking closer, it appears to be two front halves of chassis joined together!!!
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I may need to invest in a few gallons of grease, and a decent gun, the one i have at the moment is tempremental to say the least........ today was spent in a sandy ex quarry, half the day stuck in the stuff, wet and yucky........ so i prob will grease it all again this week, gotta change two tyres first..LOL... came home with holes in two!
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Any chance of some pics of the whole truck......... i know it looks like a J**P, but it also looks kinda interesting............
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YOu also have no-where to mount the fairlead............ you'll need to integrate that into the mount aswell.............
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True, however, i won;t be greasing it every time i go through water, otherwise i'd grease it every time i use it..LOL..... pretty much all the lanes round here, and the trial sites i use have lots of water, however, i might make it a monthly thing or something........ i have all the breathers extended along with a decent snorkle, i'm in the throws of designing and building a snorlke for the heater intake next...
Has anyone shipped a Land Rover to the US?
in International Forum
Posted
Jason, there isn;t much of the 'old' route 66 left these days........ precious little in fact!]
Also, factor in the climate when you plan where you might be when, as the weather can be really odd, and altitude plays a big part on that, pikes peak for example, not far from denver, is inpassable until june...... ish!
Another thing to bear in mind is that 'if' the alifornia rules make it hard to get the truck in, then just go to another state, such as washington.... seattle being a good option!
Ron.