nickliv
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Posts posted by nickliv
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Cheers Neil. Have bookmarked them, just in case.?
SVbeek , it lived in the NL for a while, with the previous owners, but is back over here now.
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Hi. I've found some in Germany (I think) so have ordered a handful.
Whether they are in stock or not, remains to be seen....
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I know it's been a while. Did you have any joy? I'm in a similar position, am looking at 3D printing, or possibly resin moulding.
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Hi. I'm looking for the interior door trim for my early 110 rebuild, the 2 part trim pieces fell apart when I was removing them, I've got some which are complete, but not all of them. I believe the part number is CZA2259L. Looking online they're unavailable. Anywhere. Would a 3D scanning and printing service be a worthwhile avenue, or has someone got a carrier bag of these hanging around. I think I need another few bits of interior trim as well, but I'll only know when it all starts to go back in.
It was a complete basket case, had had a few coats of olive drab applied by yard brush, biffs, knocks, holes etc, so it's not a faithful repro.
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Cheers for that. I'll see what I get, they're arriving today, or so I'm led to believe.
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Hi
I've just got a set of these from a Puma for my slightly older 110 from a popular online auction site, but I don't know if all the fittings are included, if I need anything extra , I take it all of its still available from the stealers?
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I've got 3 kids, and I am rather fond of them. I'm currently (re) building a 1983 110 CSW to use as a family 'adventure' (Camping, laning, travel etc) car, and I'm planning to fit a SD internal / External 8 point cage. Is there any way I can mount a 3 / 4 point seatbelt top mount to the cage for the (Safe) use of the occupant of the middle seat? Would 2X 6mm plates, shaped to fit and clamped round the tube be sufficient to take a seatbelt top mount ? (It's probably lots stronger than the 'C' post seatbelt provision)
Thanks
Nick
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Cheers all. I've walked away from this un, its daft buying one when there's snow forecast anyway. Well, it is if you've already got one.
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Here is a pic of the area in question.
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So it isn't a deal breaker then. Not the last piece of a bulkhead to go or anything like that?
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Hi
I'm looking at a 300tdi (1996) which is in good nick, apart from a couple of crusty patches around the bonnet hinges. They seem to span above and below the water trough.
Scrap bulkhead or is it repairable?
I've replaced an A pillar on a previous 90, so I'm not afraid of the electric hot glue gun.
The involvement of the water trough gives me the heebie jeebies though.
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Don't think it's that simple,the caliper mountings are part of the axle casing.
Steve
Bums.
Cheers again though.
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Check the drive flanges but otherwise I think it would be fine.
Lovely. Will do. Cheers. The bloody thing's in about a million bits as it is.
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My D90 has rear drums, but I have a Disco 1 rear axle kicking around. It's not good enough to bolt on, the mounts had rotted away, and the diffpan's porous. Can I unbolt the ends of the axles and swap them over, or will it be more complicated than that?
Cheers
Nick
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Never heard of a 2.anything diff
but.....Just to confirm - are you counting turns of the road wheels on both sides turning together, or the turns of one road wheel while the other one is still? Due to the effect of the diff, if you are only turning one road wheel it will go 2x the speed so you need to factor that in.
It sounds like your rear is turning both wheels together and you are counting 3.54 ratio, while the front is turning only the wheel on one side which with a 4.7 Series diff in there would give you 2.35 turns and as Nige said needs fixing sort of now-ish!
Yeah, 'checking' is with one wheel off the ground, it's been like that for years and years, but I've got a disco axle (Knackered) in the garage, I'll pinch its diff and 'pop' it into my 90.
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Hi
I've been having trouble with my diff lock for years, and today I decided to check out my ratios, as it doesn't behave 'properly' when running with the difflock on. (Only on ice / snow, rear tries to overtake the front)
Rear diff gives 3.5 or so turns of the prop for one turn of the wheel, all well and good there.
Front diff gives just over 2 turns.....
What's going on?
(Car was assembled, seemingly in the dark by Liveridge a few years ago - For the previous owner)
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Sadly I don't have the time to pull the body off, and we can get the accessible bits blasted and primed in an afternoon. The rest will be steam cleaned and slathered in 2 pack zinc rich primer, and overcoated in underseal / waxoylesque product.
Fuel lines, brake lines, wiring etc. will be masked off with gaffer tape, which resists being blasted with silica sand rather well. We're not going for a 'bare metal' /SA2.5 type finish, just to fire the loose crud off and pull off any old coatings.
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My Dad has a gritblasting / painting company, and we're thinking of lifting my '90 up on the forklift and sandblasting and painting as much of the chassis and axles atc. as we can. Then blowing off all the dust / carp, etc. and spraying it with an industrial paint.
Is it a rubbish idea to do this? The chassis isn't knackered, but is going brown where the old waxoyl / underseal has come off.
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I've got the first 2 in / on my 90, and i'd rather knock the fuel consumption (and engine din) down a bit. Would fitting a Disco Trans. box be a good idea in conjunction with the big tyres? I do have one kicking around.......
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My 180K mile 200 TDi is chuffing out of the back of the engine, through where the HG onbiously has cried enough.
Looking at the ID hole plate, I can see 2 holes, one in the centre of the plate, and one 1/4 hidden under the head casting. Do I simply replace the 2 hole gasket with another 2 hole gasket, or do I need to skim the head 0.1 mil, and use a 1.5mm one? Also, I've read in some places that the headbolts are OK for 5 uses, is this equine excrement, and should I add those to my shopping list as well?
Also, my rad is weeping ever so slightly, and as the coolant etc. will be out of it, it makes sense to replace it too. Paddocks ones OK, or does someone have a decent used one lying about that we can come to a beer token agreement on? ALternatively it may get radweld, and a stay of execution.
Sump also has a nice weepy rust hole in it too, I'm guessing it's worth doing that at the same time. Similar plea to the previous paragraph for decent used sump in exchange for beer tokens.
I do have an LT77 from a Disco lying about if someone fancies a beer token free swap, but be advised I am in Aberdeenshire
Cheers
Nick
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Nah, I'm not fed up with it. Its desire to kill me and empty my wallet are overshadowerd by its other, better idiosynchracies.
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If it's not one thing, it's another.
Mot : - Passed
Dodgy earth :- Fixed
Dead battery :- Mended
Now there's a distressing, alarming wheel wobble felt throught the steering after I hit a bump.
I'm hoping it's be the damper.
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I got it done OK in the end, i'd missed the 2 screws under the lip. Thanks for all the info.
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Cheers.
First of all the batt that was in it with the petrol engine died, but it was definitely on its last legs, then the battery that was in the disco donor was used, this again was pretty ancient, and this one died. I bought a new Bosch Silver battery that was doing sterling service until this recent period of very cold weather, (Minus 20) and I'm hoping that it was the weather that's done it.
Oh, the light bulbs are all A1.
but.....
1983 110 build. Interior trim hunt.
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Hi Neil. The sill and the lower portion of the C pillar are indeed YRMs.