Briarston
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Posts posted by Briarston
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Hi all
A friend has a 200Tdi Defender, and the end of the camshaft has sheared off, leaving the end
complete with key and bolt firmly fixed in the wheel. Anyone known this happen like this?
Obviously, a replacement camshaft is needed.
He has heard somewhere that the cam followers can be raised clear of the camshaft so it can be withdrawn without removing the cylinder head.
Can this be done, and if so, how?
He would be grateful for any advice.
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Hi all,
Looking for a speedo cable for a non standard job.
Does anyone know the length of a Defender one piece
cable, or have one off the vehicle they could measure please?
Thanks
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Hello
I've recently sprayed my 2a in "Deep Bronze Green".
My colour book lists it as:- "224 BS3.224, 1964 onwards".
Any help?.
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Hello
I recently sprayed my 2a.
I used "Deep Bronze Green", which my colours book shows as:-
" 224 BS3.224, 1964 onwards".
Any use to you?
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I've got a SIP 180amp set. Had it about 30yrs. Single and 3ph. switchable, but always run on 1ph.
No fan cooling, but have never had it trip on thermal cutout. I find that 70-90 amps and 2.5mm rods
work well enough on 1/4" plate/angle iron with suitable preparation.
Don't wish to criticize your efforts, just my experience of stick welding.
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1
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OK so Lady Studmuffin refers to me as folically challenged!!
My kids have been known to mutter something about "bald old coot" under their breath.
Personally I tend to describe myself as " solar powered sex god"!!!! although Lady S is always the first to disagree.
So -- how come every time I get under my Defender, even when I wear a hat, I manage to remove at least 1 square inch of scalp on a sharp bit of metal????
Barry
Isn't it another of those "laws of physics", eg. Whichever side of a bonfire you stand, the wind will always blow the smoke in your face?
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Thankyou
I will give it a try.
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Anyone know where I can get gaskets for a sip airmate?
I've tried googling but the sites I've found aren't too helpful.
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Another way that has been mentioned from time to time is to use
a suitable size (thread) tap, with a ball bearing or other spacer in the bottom
of the spigot bush hole. When the tap meets the spacer keep turning and the
now threaded bush is wound up the tap.
However, the grease method has always worked for me.
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Hi.
Thanks again!
Better idea of what to look for now. I'm not a stranger to the infernal combustion engine
but readily admit to being new to the finer points of LR's mix and match.
BTW, the flywheel housing does have ribs, so series 3 retro fit as suspected.
Regards
Jim
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What water pump pulley have you got? The FFR water pump pulley is different to the 12v pulley. The flange position on the FFR and 12v water pumps is the same dimension on both, so you can have an FFR timing case and pump running with civvy pulleys and the pulleys will line up.
Hello, thanks both for the input.
Phil, this is something to investigate. I don't know what w/p pulley is fitted at the moment. The dynamo was only loosely fitted, without a belt.
The PO must have had a problem in this area also.
Are you saying that there is a deeper dished version of the water pump pulley which will bring the belt groove closer to the water pump?
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Hi all. Can anyone advise?
My 2A project, 12volt, 2.1/4 petrol has a three groove crank pulley as fitted to the 24v versions.
From what I can find, the smaller inner pulley should drive the water pump/fan, but these are not
in line. The water pump pulley is actually in line with the centre larger pulley, which would normally
be used with one of the twin belts driving the 24v. alternator.
There seems to be a miss match of parts somewhere, but I am not sure where. As far as I can find
the water pump seems to be correct. I don't need the three groove crank pulley and was wondering
if replacing it with the "ordinary" single pulley would put things into line.
I think the engine could be a later version, as it has a timing pointer on the front cover. I can't see a
plate on the flywheel housing which the hand book refers to.
If anyone can offer advice/solution to this problem I would be very grateful!
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IIRC it's in the manual to but a bead of sealant on the joint on assembly...I never do, an it certainly wouldn't help with the splitting. It is just a case of keeping jumping on it, prying it, shaking it, swearing at it, jumping on it some more...
Mine was like that, really glued together. I was removing engine, took lots of waggling, prising and cursing before it came free.
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I had a run in with scammers recently.
My internet connection had become so slow it was practically unusable.
I had been in contact with the ISP. engineers several times, the last time was the previous evening,
so when I got a phone call from "the engineer" the following lunch time I was not unduly suspicious.
I asked why they had not asked for any letters from my password and was told that they knew all about
my problem. I asked if they were my ISP engineers and was assured that they worked for them and others.
As requested, I switched on my computer and entered numbers as requested - still not suspicious as I had
been asked to do this previously. Then I realised that the computer was being scanned and demanded to
know why, and was told it was "to remove viruses picked up from the internet" which they would remove.
Now, I had only had this computer a few days, and it had very little internet use due to the original problem.
By now, lots of unwanted icons were appearing on the desk top, and when I again protested I was passed
over to "the manager" who told me they were cleaning up my computer and it was going to cost me £199(inc.vat)
for their service.
Oh no it's *!!% not, said I, unplugging the router and shutting down, before throwing the phone across the room
Five minutes later they phoned back, demanding payment within 24hrs. as I had requested their services (had not!)
After some more choice words to him, I slammed the phone down again.
As it happens, they had previously given me their phone no. This I passed on to my ISP who said they would have
the line blocked( don't know If they could, but have not been bothered since)
It seems that these people were just "fishing" and their call fitted in with my circumstances.
Incidentally, the problem was cured by Openreach. Something to do with the local exchange.
Also, while two finger typing this, I have to keep stopping to get rid of "Pando Media Booster" installer which
keeps popping up. Anyone know anything about this?
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Hi all.
Two questions which I'm sure you series owners can answer.
1. Other than the window catches (and the hole for the S3 catch) are series 2/2A /3
door tops the same dimensionally, and interchangeable?
2. Are the van side panels interchangeable between 88" series and 90" Defender(type)?
I know the roof is different at the front.
The reason I ask is that I have a good roof but no sides, and today I have seen what looks
like a complete unit sitting on a pile.
I would , however, prefer a truck cab if anyone near Stafford has one spare! A reasonable
amount of repair work not objected to.
Regards, and thanks in advance for any answers.
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The valve works to block off flow (pressure) to the rear brakes when under heavy braking (basically to ensure that the fronts lock up before the rear or the vehicle is likely to spin).
The ball should be fairly free moving, given it needs to be flung forward under heavy braking, but provided with some resistance (light spring) when light braking.
The bit to watch is putting larger rear callipers on a vehicle not suppose to have them as they are still likely to lock up before the fronts (increased surface area), thinking 90 with RR rear callipers here.
I think there are also different valves for different flavours of vehicles (the parts forum can advise), so a different valve for a 90, 110, 130 on discs and the different ones for the same vehicles on drums.
Which is why I swapped my drum braked "G valve" for the Disco one (Disco axle fitted, would lock up the rears quite easily, now doesn't)
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If you have the slave cylinder off, it may be worth bleeding
it with the piston clamped right back into the cylinder, thus minimising
the air space, as otherwise, the piston will move out to contact the push
rod - this is how the clutch "self adjusts".
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Whats a G valve???
It's to stop the rear brakes locking up under heavy braking.
I fitted one from an early Disco, having fitted a disc braked rear axle.
This Disco one would rattle when given a good shake. I took it apart to clean
it out, lots of muck and rust. It had a very light spring in it. Don't
know if the original one did.
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Hi
May be able to help with the connections.
I should have a drawing ( it's at work) so will try and dig it out
tomorrow, and get back to you if no one else beats me to it.
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Hello Norman
Thankyou. I had found this site, but wouldn't load when I tried.
Got it now. Looks a bit different from what I already have.
Regards
Jim
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Hi - when you say fitted one from an early Disco, what part do you mean? There was a pressure limiting valve that I saw, like an in line cylinder on RRC and D1 but the first place I saw a G valve was on 90's - so was there a different G - valve on the Disco?
Yes, a pressure limiting/restricting device. Looked similar to my old "G-valve". Was mounted on the o/s inner wing of the Disco.
I took the end cap off to clean it out before fitting and found it had a light spring against the ball. Don't know about the original,
as I left it in place just in case the replacement one wasn't satisfactory.
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Thanks!
I'll try not to pester you too much!
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Further to what has already been said, when I converted to rear disc brakes I found that with the original
"G valve" in line, the rear wheels would lock up quite easily.
I fitted one from an early Disco (without ABS) which stopped this. The MOT. tester said the brakes were
as good as any he had ever tested, and better than most.
My own experience, and not necessarily a recommendation!
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My 1988 "90" has what is often called a "G-valve", located on the chassis rail,
as stated above. It's intended to shut off pressure under hard braking to prevent
the back wheels locking. I think it's the shuttle valve with the warning light switch
that Landowner refers to. If a front or rear pipe fails the shuttle moves across, closing
that port, and operates the switch/warning light.
Clutch servo - again!
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Is it really necessary for the pipework to be 1/4"? There is an adapter
at the master cylinder end which must cause some restriction, and
similar adapters presumably are needed to connect to the servo.
The volume of fluid going in at one end is the same as comes out
at the other whatever size pipe is in between surely?