Briarston
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Posts posted by Briarston
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Take the vanes out so no vacuum is produced, and plug the outlet hole, perhaps?
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aah yes, I remember reading that in the book, well the front cover is back on now and a new belt on and tensioned, will hopefully manage to throw the rest back together tomorrow! though does anyone know of a way to torque the crank shaft bolt without an impact wrench? the torque wrenh I have is beefy enough, but is it just a case of finding low range first and going aginst the resistance of the gearbox?
Put in the HIGHEST gear, or you will find your efforts will cause the LR to climb over your wheel chocks. Getting a helper to hold the foot brake on (or spragging the pedal down) is worth doing.
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Saw this ad. today in Classic Plant & Machinery mag. I quote:-
" Sealy YK30
£200 no offers. 30 ton hydraulic press, cost £730
For further info. 'phone Steve on 07505 828204
Greater Manchester"
Photo shows it to be floor standing.
I have absolutely no connection with this ad. or sale, just thought it may be of interest to any
forum members who may be on the lookout for something similar.
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I've kitted quite a few master and wheel cylinders over the years. Used to be the done thing.
Condition of the bore is important. Scored or corroded, sling it.
You used to be able to get genuine Lockheed and Girling kits kits easily. Don't know if you still can as everything seems to be a "throw it away and fit a new one" these days.
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Plastic primer as already said, also plasticiser instead of thinners in the clear coat. (just for the wheel arches, that is!)
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May help as a double check. In Mark Evans' "A 4x4 is Born" dvd, he shows a measurement of 25mm. from a crossmember bolt which he says is in the same position on 90's & RRC's possibly Disco also?
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Eary RRC's had steel wheels (Rostyle comes to mind) which I think are probably thinner than the later alloys, thus extra length needed if up dating. They were the correct standard steel wheels on my 1979 model.
No idea of part no.'s through.
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gruntus, on 28 October 2011 - 10:55 AM, said:Gents,
unfortunately the doors were stripped and the rusty channel disposed so I have nothing to compare with.
Just to clarify all i need is the furry felt channel the glass slides and locks into.
I was under the impression its all the same stuff but my local supplier is going to try and sell me all the bits direct from Land Rover seperately (sounds spendy)
Am i right in thinking that I can buy a couple of lengths http://www.johncradd...rges_apply_.php like this and cut them up individually and fit?
Cheers
G
That looks like what I bought. Don't quite remember, but I think there was a change in glass thickness over the years, and had to specify which mine had.
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UdderlyOffroad, on 27 October 2011 - 10:10 PM, said:
Or just keep the flywheel housing from your 2.5 petrol. I have!
Matt
Fair enough. Many seem to do it this way without problems, but my thinking is that the four bolts into the ladder frame are there for a purpose. Manufacturers don't usually add un needed fixings. Anyway, I wanted to keep my old engine complete.
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Nut on the "A" frame ball joint might be the hardest part. Make sure you support the LR securely.
Swapped mine alone and unaided without much difficulty. Can't tell you socket spanner sizes though.
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If you get a Disco 200tdi it's easy enough to mod. the flywheel housing. You only have to tap a couple of holes (pilot holes are already there), counterbore the holes at the bottom to take cap head bolts to secure the housing to the ladder frame, and swap over a couple of studs. You don't even have to take it off the engine. Half an hour at the most.
Exhaust downpipe takes a bit longer though, unless you buy a "special".
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I got a couple of lengths from Craddocks, each length enough for one door. Just cut up to suit.
Can't remember the price, but pretty cheap I thought.
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Had this on my car, years ago. Seal in the master cyl. which stops fluid being pushed back into master cyl. reservoir when pedal is pressed was swollen and sticking, thus preventing fluid returning to reservoir when pedal released, hence near solid pedal feel.
I ended up fitting new brake shoes. Inspite of a good sanding they were "glazed" badly, and even after fitting a new m/c the stopping power was poor compared to how it was before, until I did so.
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I've used them once to return an "old unit" brake caliper. I dropped it off a corner shop (yes, they do speak English) which I often use anyway, so very convenient for me.
A tracking number allows you to find where it is, and when it's arrived, though the route taken seemed rather roundabout way.
I suppose it depends where their sorting depots are.
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I seem to remember seeing someone once with a home made tool that fitted over the shoe to aid removal and refitment. I can only decribe it as i have no pics, it was made out of a bit of flat steel, say 40 x 5 mm, it had a slot cut in the end with a grinder, and had then been folded back on its self, this allowed the slot to fit each side of the part of the shoe that sits into the cylinder or bottom adjuster part and sit under the curved part of the shoe(under the lining), the bit folded over then sitting on the lining side following the curve of the shoe. Welded to this at 90' was then a bit of round bar to use as a lever. It looked very simple to make and was very effective, keeping your fingers well out of the way. If i get five i will make one for myself and take pics, as its probably easier than trying to describe it.
These used to be available ready made in motor accessory shops. Girling tool if I remember correctly (along with clamps for flexible hoses btw.)
I find a decent sized moveable spanner also works quite well, used in the same manner.
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Thankyou both for the info and advice.
Western - Thanks for the offer. I'll have another check next time I have a decent run and see if it's still the same.
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Hi all
I have a "90" retro fitted with a Disco 200Tdi engine, and rad/oilcooler'intercooler assembly.
After a brisk 25mile round trip with a trailer on the back today on arriving back at "base" I lifted the bonnet (habit of mine) to have a quick check for leaks (none!) The top hose and top of rad. were nice and hot, but I was surprised to find that the metal oil cooler pipes were not even what I would call warm.
Does anyone know what temp. the oil 'stat should open, could it have failed in the closed position, or could it be that the oil was just not hot enough?
Any thoughts/advice would be much appreciated.
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I'm a non-electrician beyond what common sense and school physics tells me. So wiring diagrams are quite hard work. I'm sure I (and many others on here) would find them easier to follow if we knew there was a general PRINCIPLE to the colours. For example, I know that earths are always black (aren't they?) and indicators are green with a red or white tracer for left or right. Interior lighting is purple and so on. So is there a list of colours which you could check and say "okay, this wire has something to do with such-and-such" ? It would make it a lot easier to identify all those spare connectors floating around behind the dash and under the bonnet, wouldn't it? I could probably make better use of the original harness rather than having bits of odd wire snaking around the car tucked into corners.
Don't rely on earths being "always black". Ford and Vauxhall have both used brown for earth.
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My first Discovery on a J plate had exactly the set up you describe. Just like the defender but without the bracket for the damper. I had to rebuild the joint a couple of times so was quite pleased to note that all my subsequent Discos have had the TRE type drop arm/draglink combo.
Thanks for the confirmation. I have seen many Discos but never one with this set up before.
Like the title says, I was just curious!
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Hi all
It's often recommended that a Disco steering box drop arm and drag link be fitted to Defenders to do away with the latters drop arm ball joint.
While at a breakers yard today (not looking for Landy parts!) I saw a Disco with very much the same drag link as fitted to the Defender - forged end with an eye apparently to fit a drop arm ball joint but without the fork part for the steering damper. The steering box had been removed, so I don't know what type it was.
Just wondered if this was an original factory fit, and if others has seen this type on a Disco?
It was aDisco 1,RHD, but no plates so no idea of age.
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There was a short write up by someone who has done this in LRO mag. May 2004. Seems the bulkhead mod. is to clear the rear of the standard exhaust manifold, which will also connect to the series exhaust. Said he was well pleased with it, 25-30mpg. and 70mph. cruising. (originally 2.25 petrol)
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Just as an aside, and roughly on topic, some years ago a friends son had an MG Midget which he felt was getting a little over warm. He got a multi blade fan and after a long struggle (car had a deep fan cowling, working inside it)and many plasters he got the new fan fitted. Time for a road test, engine was close to boiling after a couple of miles. Turned out the fan he had fitted was from an early Mini with the side mounted rad. and the engine driven fan blowing out through it, air exiting under the wing. Fitted to his MG (front mounted rad.) the fan was fighting against the natural air flow, hence rapid overheating.
Moral - Whichever side of the rad. you mount the fan, do make sure it pushes (or pulls) the air in the right direction!
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With regard to the panel illumination. Don't know what age yours is, but mine has a three position rocker on the lower RH. panel. One position switches on the interior light, one the panel lights, and the centre position is "off". Easy enough to check this out before getting in behind the dash.
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Marine Blue for a early 110.
Agree. Shows as Marine Blue, JCC/LRR006, 1959-1987. This fits with the age, if original colour.
Slammed Landy anyone?
in International Forum
Posted
Nice crash pad on the steering wheel boss!