Steve 90
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Posts posted by Steve 90
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espically if ran as a pair, ay Steve
Double awesome!
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A couple of weeks after I bought it!
Not quite 2 years later.
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Oh yes, That one will do nicely. I'll just edit it a little and send it back to you!
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Forget the Bowmotor, The 4.6 warn is far better, The 6hp XP is awesome!
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:hysterical: :hysterical: :hysterical: Whats bullys special prize????
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Billy Elliot eat your heart out !!
:hysterical: Billy Idiot 
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You Just want to hope Lard does not get to carried away with all this praise of his jumping skills.......
Next he'll be in a lyrca all-in-one with hands above his head looking for points on each landing
Theres a thought for you
Jim
Lardy in a Lycra all in one!
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If it has a LT230 transfer box (which yours will have) its fine. Freelanders and Rangerovers with the borgwarner transfer box (viscous coupling) have to be teated with the Tapley meter on the road. The ctr diff on yours will be fine with this. The only issue would be Traction control playng up but the brake tester rollers only turn at 1.5mph so it doesn't effect it.
Vosa did say that all L/R's should be teated on the road at one time because it was easier than listing which were OK and which wern't but now they say if they have an open ctr diff then they can be tested on the rollers.
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My issue Steve is the clutch(130) has failed in just 6months
can't do with replacing the clutch too often
so will try the alternative and see what happens
Yea, Six months is bad and with the underdrive it should be having a relatively easy time of things. After 12 months mine didn't slip but it was definitely not feeling like it should so I changed it. See how it goes, the paddle clutch will last longer its just a case of getting used to it I spose.
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Mine was a daily driver used for competition to.
the clutch didn't smell of burning at all this weekend and only started slipping on the journey home.
the 130 clutch plate(upgrade) is only a small amount larger in diameter than a standard plate, the covers are the same.
The 130 clutch cover/ pressure plate I had was different to the normal 90/110 version with much higher clamping pressure and it killed my knee trying to work it all day in a comp. Apparently the 130 pedal box has a different leverage ratio to combat this. I was gona try and find the 130 pedal box but ended up just putting a std 90 clutch back in.
I have put 2 kits in and skimmed the fly wheel twice in 2 years of comps but I am very hard on the clutch. Id rather slip it than have the abuse go through the transmission when drive assist winching in nasty situations so Ive kinda accepted I'll just stuff a clutch in every year! Last one was a LUK. The one previous was a Valeo but some people on the forum have had bad experience with Valeo breaking up which is why I went for the LUK although the Valeo was fine when I took it out.
After some experience with rally cars I personally would not fit a paddle clutch as I wouldn't be able to slip it when needed and they tend to be very abrupt (either in or out) which aint great when trying to find grip pulling away when its slippery. Although Tony has the underdrive so it may well be fine.
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Ian , I think I know the punc h you are on about , we got there after dinner and the approach was completely chewed , We took off and approached it from the top track just left of the start gate , dropped down a bank through the stream , but as normal there was about 6" of cord on it , and tied down nice and low
Yea, I think you followed us in there Jase and Jim did it before us so atleast 3 had it, Probably more.
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Ian, yep all the punches were achieved, the most by D4x4 and OEC teams with 31 or 30 each (IIRC) anyway they are on the results sheet you had emailed through so you can scroll through and see who got what.
I see that Simon and Jason both had 31 punch's, We had 30 and Jim had 29 so it was pretty close. The thing I do notice tho is that the punch values are all very low. You usually have a couple of 100/200 point punch's at the end of the day but this time, possibly due to the larger entry, the highest value was 67 with most the punch's down in the 20's,30,s and 40,s. Makes the Harder ones less worth while but does keep the competition closer which can only be a good thing!
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No complaints about my paper work this time Mr T????
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Thanks to everyone, James, Anton, all the marshals and everyone else that made it possible. We had a fantastic day, The punch's were brilliant, Quite tight in places but we've come to expect that from the Twisted Mr T! The event ran smoothly which is a credit to those organizing with such a large entry.
Our day went well, Started a bit too cautious as we didn't want to break anything but looking back probably waisted a bit of time, Tho we got into the swing as the day went on. Shame we spent a couple of minutes looking for the sixth punch on the special before we realized there was only 5 and the last bearing took us to the finish
but Mark did brilliantly finding all the right punch's. The truck seems to have come out surprisingly well, The power steering pump went sick about lunch time which made working through the trees a nightmare but the only damage was a broken side light lens from catching a tree while pulling off the main track to let another vehicle past, Doh!!! -
Its quite handy for people you PM regularly coz you dont have to find them, then go to their profile, then send a PM, You just click friends and there they are! Well thats what I use it for.
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Ashcroft have the short bell housing R380 which is a straight swap for a 90 (pre 300tdi) on he shelf!
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Depending on what you want it for and weight of your truck,
For a run of the mill challenge 90 with all the usual extras the spring rates are very good, They dont give the best flex out there but its plenty and the truck is very stable and sits at a good height. I tried lots as have others I know and we all are hapiest with these plus they dont sag. The shocks are very good, I will be replacing mine with them very soon. At the moment I have Pro comp which I am less than impressed with and were a waste of money but I couldn't get anything else at the time.
Trailing arms go for Gwyn lewis, Strong and simple, Very effective. Dont really see the point in H/D turrets, Ive never damaged one but I have now fitted the Gwyn Lewis ones for there open, Easy maintanance/shock removal design. I have Gwyn lewis retaining plate's and rear relocation cones, Again very simple, Strong and effective but as long as they keep things in place thats all that counts and I'm not a fan of all this massive dislocation milarky.
So no, I probably wouldn't go for the Kit but thats just my opinion, The springs are highly recomended tho.
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I always used to use one shot grease but I tend to strip my axles every 2-3 events and it was a right pain cleaning the grease out so im going to use a thick gear oil. Had planned on EP90 but we have some EP140 (same as jase) which is used in Jag, Merc etc Diffs that I might try!
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What was the format last year? Interested in coming, Just wondering how it runs?
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Well so far this week its been looking like you had 2 non starters from this end. Kris destroyed his rear ARB and I had got my truck ready to gO, checked the M.O.T and it had expired! Doh. All's good again now, Fitted a new ARB for Kris tonight, new windscreen went in my truck today and it got 12 month M.O.T this evening so were back in business. Was looking bad for a while tho!!!
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i think i can confidently say that your truck is the exception Jase, and i can say that knowing Lardy wont log on for ages anway having probably forgotten his psd!
Oi, I registered and entered for the first event pretty sharpish this time!
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Im amazed and dont quite believe it to be honest but a bag of beads in each front wheel has taken the truck from trying to rip the steering out of your hands at 40-50mph to a perfectly still steering wheel, Not even a shudder, better than ever!
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Right, The bolts I spoke about above that I thought went into the Sump actually go into the back of the bottom ladder section that bolts to the bottom of the block and also doubles up as the main bearing caps. I checked a couple of 200tdi defenders and they had bolts going through the fly wheel housing into this section but then used the normal bell housing studs which is a different setup to both the disco and the earlier TD 90. So I decided to just use some M10 countersunk bolts to bolt the fly wheel housing to bottom of engine using the original Disco holes.
Then tap out the holes in the fly wheel housing that line up with the defender bell hosing and use the normal defender studs to secure it.
Its solid as a solid thing now, the box bolts to the motor as it should and im much happier with this than just relying on the fly wheel housing missing the bottom bolts into the engine.
:hysterical: 
:rofl: 
but Mark did brilliantly finding all the right punch's. The truck seems to have come out surprisingly well, The power steering pump went sick about lunch time which made working through the trees a nightmare but the only damage was a broken side light lens from catching a tree while pulling off the main track to let another vehicle past, Doh!!!
Tdi Intercoolers
in International Forum
Posted
Usually within minutes of unloading mines so blocked with mud it cant cool the air anyway!