[Help needed td5 boys]

Turbo next.. ha ha ha Good man

More info there and on website http://www.irbdevelopments.com/adjustable_box.html

[Help needed td5 boys]

Paul.

You wouldn't see noticeable gains by just purchasing the intercooler alone without a remap. A boost box is only required if the turbo is over boosting, this doesn't usually happen until you have a stage 2 remap. The 'boost box' doesn't increase boost, but removes the engines limit on boost, in effect allowing over boost. I had IRB stage 2 with intercooler and was finding the engine going into limp mode when 'enthusiastically accelerating', a sure sign of overboost. I then had a boost box fitted and this solved the issue.

I don't know about BAS but i know if you go to IRB for a remap and then go back for future work / upgrades later, the remap is discounted depending on the work being done. Worth asking Pete at BAS, if not, Ian at IRB (who works closely with Pete from BAS) probably would. You've opened a can of worms here though ha ha more power...... ha ha careful you'll be talked into a hybrid variable geometry turbo soon

HTH

Tom

[Garage & 4x4 Ultrail trailing arms?]

Paul, by creeper joint, do you mean johnny joint or something else, i have not heard of them before? Be interested to see some more pictures Paul. I am not 100% sure what you mean.

At the moment I have over cranked arm's. This is because the person that owned the truck before me seemed obsessed with lift... anyway i removed the spacers during rebuild so now just sit about 2.5-3 inches above std. The cranked trailing arms where cranked for the original lift so now on level ground, the top side of the chassis side bushes of the trailing arms are slightly compressed. This is great for droop as the the trailing arms do not provide much resistance and allow my shocks to extend to their limit. The problem is when the wheel is raised going over an obstacle, the already partially depressed trailing arm bushes do not allow as much upwards travel as they could. Thus the vehicle body remains higher - thus a higher C of G and i'm more likely to end up arse over head.

Pictures may describe it better.

[Garage & 4x4 Ultrail trailing arms?]

Cheers for your thoughts. Interesting to hear people reiterate my A-frame ball joint concerns. They may become a problem if the axle wanted to be left behind an obstacle, you'd have everything hinged on 3 A-frame ball joints remaining intact... I don't believe they were ever design to be load bearing in that plane. Still hoping for someone with first hand experience to comment before I write them off.

I would rather commend innovation and see how things work or don't work practically before passing judgement on theory.

[Garage & 4x4 Ultrail trailing arms?]

Evening all. Could I have some opinions on these please?

http://www.garageand4x4.com/page3.html

Are there many people on here who have experience with them?

I like the look and idea of them and have had good dealings with Garageand4x4 before but I just wanted to get some opinions.

Can the joints handle off-road abuse, being sat with the vehicle arse end balancing / be dragged over a log on them? No joint / bush is finite, i guess i'm after some first hand experience.

A lot of people are running rose / johnny jointed rear arms. How will these differ in capability?

Cheers

Tom

[Landrover presents ?]

I bought my Niece her first Landy present. Fender Children's book. She is 4 months old but, start 'em' young! I look forward to reading her that when she comes to visit Uncle Tom

[About converting TD5 to ZF4HP22]

There must be quite a few that have done this, so... answers to Pete's questions above would benefit many I would have thought, including me

[WARNING!!!]

Cheers for heads up!

[Air-Air vs Water-Air Charge Cooling Systems]

Cheers for link foz. However only reason not to try just from that is heat soak. Something not considered, though would like to know more about it's affect.

[Air-Air vs Water-Air Charge Cooling Systems]

I know some turbo petrol production cars are water-air charge cooled but I don't know of any diesels. I assume there are a number of reasons for this including diesels spending more time on boost thus the cooling requirements maybe greater and/or the costs being greater than standard air-air intercooler cooling systems. I don't know.

Has anyone water-air charge cooled a diesel recently? I was thinking of doing it to with my Td5 Challenge truck when off season maintenance begins.

My main driver for doing this is being able to move the winch backwards to reduce winch overhang (along with sending the radiator to the rear) and theoretically being able to increase 'low vehicle speed' cooling efficiency over a ‘comparable’ Intercooler. A turbo lag reduction could alternatively be seen due to being able to utilise a smaller cooling system when charge cooling than air intercooling to get the same heat dissipation.

A problem I can see in the future would be fitting a VNT at a later date, the extra heat this would add to charge (always being on boost) and the subsequent effect on affective cooling or the size of the charge cooling system required to see a benefit over intercooling.

Does anyone have any firsthand experience on the set up, the sizes / flow / radiator capacity required for charge cooling and more importantly when it becomes a benefit over intercooling?

Unfortunately I do not have the knowledge to answer the following questions thus I am hoping that some of you bestowed with bigger brains than my own might be able to impart your knowledge.

A few questions.....

1: What volume / flow rate charge cooling system would you require to get the same cooling characteristics of a standard intercooler at idle/low speed? With the heat capacities of; Air: 1.0035 J/(g.K) and Water: 4.1813 J/(g.K) I would have thought the charge cooling system could be considerably smaller.

2: What efficiency gap would exist between the systems when travelling at road speeds if the charge cooling was set up (to reduce packaging) to mimic low speed intercooler cooling efficiency.

3: What volume / flow rate charge cooling system would you require to get the same cooling characteristics as a standard intercooler at high road speed / large air flow? How far could you go?

What do you think??

Tom

[My Birthday Celebrations...]

Cheap flight to Krakow, book a couple of hours on a range shooting AK47's, all day drinking session then sticking your key in the door of a hot blonde?

Drive your Land Rover to the airport.

That sounds like a epic weekend!

[Stuff you find in your truck.....]

Many moons ago, in the early 80's my Dad found a 9/16 spanner inside the front chassis leg of his first landy when it required a dumb iron replacement. He is not aware of any chassis work previously being done so hopes it was a 'factory fitted extra'. Still has the spanner, is the only one he hasn't misplaced over the years. His LandRover special tool

[Nanocom Evolution]

I have had some success here, so thought i'd update encase anyone else finds this useful. I have since found this error on not specific to my ecu. Having tried it on 3 ecu's. 2 Disco (2000 and 2004) and 1 Defender (2003) It only worked for live data on the 2000 Disco. I have had some useful correspondence with Colin at Black Box Solutions who has informed me that this live data issue with some Td5 ecu's is a known problem for which an update will be released shortly (once the premises move is complete - current taking place) to cover this and a couple of other things. Fingers crossed!

[Insurance]

Tried NFU, Adrian Flux, Lancaster, Frank Pickles (if over 25)?

[Nanocom Evolution]

With two TD5's in the family, one 2003 engined challenge truck and one 2004 D2 overlander, thought it wise to purchase some diagnostic equipment. Had seen how useful a Nanocom / Rovacom could be in the past but always had a mate nearby with equipment to beg / borrow / steal, but when competing or on another continent this is less easy... Seen a couple of Td5 powered trucks d.n.f at competitions because of relatively minor issues that could have been diagnosed / fixed.

Anyway, bought the evolution earlier this week and after rewiring the diagnostics plug in my defender it seemed to work fine. Before I go any further, I purchased unlock codes to cover defender and disco Td5 for obvious reasons, and have used the Nanocom on a friends 2000 reg disco without issue. Not been able to try on my fathers disco yet.

When I plug it into my defender, it boots fine, I can read and clear fault codes, access ECU info, look at outputs, utilities tests etc, but when I try and look at any inputs / live feeds the Nanocom seems to take a snap shot of the data then an error message pops up saying that there has been an error in ECU communication at which point the screen goes back to the data outputs previously shown, now frozen on the snap shot readings. This means I have no live readings, which is an area I wanted to use to analyse temperatures, pressures, air flow, fuelling etc.

Has anyone else come across this or has some advise? The ECU has been remapped and I was wondering if this could have anything to do with it. I'm going to 'try' and speak to good old Porny tomorrow but wondered if anyone else might be able to shed some light or their 2 pence worth.

Cheers

Tom

[defender td5 diagnostics wont read]

Thread resurrection. I am having problems connecting my evolution. I had to extend the obd wiring last year when i moved the Ecu and plug to the cubby box. I think i must have made a mistake in the dark when connecting. I get 12v continuous from pin 16 whether engine is on or off and then between 8 and 10 v at pin 7 when engine is running. Nothing from pin 8. Pin 4 and 5 have good earths. What readings should i get from pin 7 and 8 while engine off and then when in ignition 2 or engine running. I take it that pin 7 is the can link? Should this be showing a Voltage. At the moment the nancom displays nothing when plugged in. But from previous posts it should with 12v at pin 16 and earths at pins 4 and 5. Is there something else it requires?

[suspension change]

No reason why not other than you will have excessive castor - assuming those arms are 3° / 6° corrected. You will have more positive castor so you will have heavier and slightly less responsive steering. If you are not going to put lift (more than 2'') back on in the future you might as well sell your castor corrected and refit standard to make some money if nothing else. For 1'' lift castor correction isn't necessary.

[LT230 Input seal]

Got a friendly specialist or mate that can lend you some locating pins? Makes the job much easier and don't have to worry about pinching or unseating seal.

[fitting 35 inch tires to a 110 tdi defender]

As Mickey says, mixing ratios not sensible for anything high speed, well i can't think of any time it would be . Also 4.7 ratio seems overkill unless you are doing rock crawling or snail racing. As Mickey mentioned low range gearing will be the same in all T-Box's so in low range you're relying on diff ratio and while using high range... not sure why it would be used unless comp safari or the such like, or on road. I've left my crown and pinion as 3.54 with 35's, mainly for repair or replacement purposes as i'm a tight arse, but HD 4.11 would be the way I will go if that £5 note I planted in the garden germinates, but that is at the bottom of my upgrade wish list tbh. The best option in my opinion, if you really think changing is necessary, would be 4.11 crown and pinion front + rear with a 1.2 Tbox to bring your high range gearing back up to ~standard.

[Locking differentials]

I understand how air lockers work, that they provide th true performance of a locked diff then locked and true open diff performance when not locked, so no handling issues. replacing o rings seems like a routine maintenance thing, but a pain in the arse, sooo

What do you mean by routine? I've personally had my ARB RD56 for 2 years and not had to replace a seal yet. I'll probably regret saying that now... It was second hand when I had it so I have no idea if was ever done before that.

[Land rover Max]

I have been trying to find out how much is the entrance fee for the Lro max do at Stoneliegh but cant find any information even on the official site..is it just me?

According to website 'DAY TICKETS CAN BE PURCHASED ON THE MAIN GATE - ADULT: £15, CHILD UNDER 15: £7'

[Td5 Exhaust manifold webbing and bottom pulley Q's]

If you do have after market remap then you're 'probably' running higher exhaust gas temps but the cause of the warping is less so the max temperature but the temperature variations experienced, especially from cold. Some 'bad' maps have big steps in fueling which can exacerbate the problem. Removing webbing will allow more reformation at individual exhaust ports (warping isn't linear across manifold) thus reduce warping across the whole manifold and may increase time before manifold will require changing, however, this is not ideal as you are reducing heat dissipation and total strength. Ideal solution would be higher strength tubular manifold with stronger manifold bolts offered by some tuners but that's costly. I run an IRB Developments stage 2 with boost box and uprated intercooler and haven't warped a manifold yet. I think it has a lot to do with the map, you driving style and how sympathetic you are until the engine + manifold are up to temp. If mine goes (hasn't so far with ~5k driving) then i will replace with second hand or skimmed manifold before buying tubular.

[silly questiion time!! 300tdi mpg+towing?]

Some one mentioned to me about how the haulage drivers at the top of the 'efficiency tables / leagues' always ask for the biggest loads. I suppose the savings of using momentum can be greater than losses of hauling larger loads. Though I doubt this would be transferable between towing and not towing with a Landy, more likely the difference between towing 10 and 20tons.

[Dirty July Photos]

Why post something from 10 years ago?

John

Any particular reason why not? Nice to see some pics of a nice looking dirty disco. It doesn't matter when it was.

p.s Welcome to the forum Swindon Disco

[handbrake adjust 300tdi]

If you mean adjust the position of the handbrake lever during operation then I think this is as Les says, however, if you are referring to travel to get an effective working handbrake, you can adjust the drum it's self. Square nut on the rear (tbox side) of drum.