martifers

Where are people getting KAM spares these days? Emailed Kevin at KAM but not had a response, when I ring them, the call is auto forwarded through to Frogisland but they only seem to sell the new drop in diff. Waiting for a call back from them for further assistance. I have an old locker, pre quill, requiring long splined nearside shaft, I would like to upgrade this to the later style with quill tube and was quoted for the parts to do so by Kevin back in 2012. I wish i had done so at the time rather than just purchasing one of the last long splined shafts they had left in stock.... this was an 'HD' grade shaft (grey) rather then the 'aero' grade (black). Now I need a replacement stub shaft on the side that has the older 'HD' grade long splined shaft. I previously had a weaker stub shaft on that side, 27 mm under cut i believe, to make sure the stub broke before the 'HD' shaft did. Now I only seem to be able to find a single type of stub shaft, no undercut options, thus if i fit one, i am moving the weak point to the HD shaft which i really don't want to break as sourcing a replacement could be a real pain. Ideally I would like to upgrade the locker so that i can fit any uprated shaft, thus can use 'aero' grade along with the now 'standard' 'aero' stub shaft but for the time being a new stub shaft may have to suffice. Where is the best alternative to source the bits? Cheers Sharpie

Green Class for me! I do like the separation of Tax and Tested to non. I spend lots keeping my truck on the road and find it really annoying when, because of winches and lockers, i have to compete against people who have cut everything off their truck that makes it road legal and thus have a distinct advantage over me. Maybe i just enter the wrong events..... Was competing at the Scotia Winch Challenge this weekend in Standard class dawning my LR4x4 stickers. Fingers crossed we get some mag coverage Was an awesome event. Spectacular setting, weather, set up and run flawlessly!!!! We will definitely be going back!

Thanks chaps. I can't find it on their website, hence why i posted here. Will give them a call then.

Can anyone either direct me to where i could get a replacement warn 8274 cup needle bearing: Warn part number 8356, or has the dims / link for a alternative replacement? Only seem to be able to find in U.S. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WARN-8356-Winch-Replacement-Shaft-Closed-Needle-Bearing-Part-Repair-/360583160316?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53f46e61fc Many thanks Sharpie

5 amp 12v feed to pin 16 of the diagnostic plug and an earth on 4 & 5, then continuity between pin 7 on the plug and pin B18 on ecu plug. Pin 7+8 voltage will change as are serial links.

Right, managed to find the answer to this which might be useful to others. The pressure is the same for both pumps but the Disco pump has a higher flow rate. The disco 2 pump (QVB101240) has a flow rate of 0.5 ltrs/m greater than the Defender pump at the nominal delivery pressure. Will be going for D2 pump then!

Cheers Western. I am trying to think of a reason not to get the D2 pump. That is what it has had, if higher pressure, it could be useful for running hydro assist. Just hope that it will not cause premature failure of the defender 4 bolt box. Wonder if anyone has access to the pressure values of the defender pump. Could be useful for future reference for others to.

Cheers chaps. I had heard that the D2 may run at a higher pressure not had this confirmed. Wonder if anyone will pop along in the know.

Can anyone explain the difference between TD5 PAS pumps QVB101240 and QVB101350. The 1350 is quoted for Defender and the 240 for Defender / Disco. They are exactly the same price from Brit-Car for the Bearmach brand. I currently have a D2 engine fitted into my defender running a standard defender 4 bolt steering box. Steering pump is starting to whine a bit more now so looking at replacements parts. Regards Tom

Anyone done this in the past or able to check there diagnostics plug for me?? Would be a great help! Am sure it would be useful info for others in the future.

Anyone able to shed some light. I forgot about this issue until recently when i wanted to plug the nanocon in to make adjustments. My previous statement of constant 12v a pin 16 may not now be true, i think i may have a wiring issue due to dropping volts from fuse 8 to pin 16. I did not realise when this fuse is removed, the engine is imobilised.... Before running a fresh live feed to pin 16 can someone confirm what if any voltage readings i should be getting at pin 7 & 8?? Sharpie

Cheers Mike and Adrian. Some food for thought there. So in summary, a positive upgrade if your scrub radius isn't excessive.

Apparently there are quite often fitting problems.... They are quite happy to take the guard back, however i may just modify to fit. How on earth Terrafirma can make a guard to fit all pre 2007 defenders when there seem so many different gbox x- member configurations is beyond me. You live and learn...

How so Mike? Care to elaborate?

Cheers Dan. I did notice the lack of pan hard rod mount but did not know of the fouling or the differing UJ. Maybe hydro assist is the easiest option. Jim can't be the only person to have used one, maybe others will come out of the wood work...

Can anyone tell me the difference between the 4 bolt Defender Steering box (STC8384E / QAF500110) and the QAF500050E Disco 2 steering box? I have heard that Adwest do (or may have done at some point) an uprated defender steering box with disco 2 internals? If they are stronger, can they be fitted to defenders? Is there any truth in this and has anyone done so? I currently have a 4 bolt box with disc 1 drop arm set up on my defender. Looking at hydro assist to reduce the wear on the box during challenges but could turn out (excuse the pun ) to be cheaper to replace with a stronger box.... Not expecting or to bothered about much of an increase in steering power from hyrdo assist (looking at the Robhybrid designed kit sold by Llama / Gweyn Lewis) since I don't really want to break TRE's unnecessarily but i do worry about the strain on the standard 4 bolt box. Anyone able to advise? Regard Sharpie

A small update with some photos. Have rung First Four and are awaiting measurements. It could be that what i ordered is not what i received. When measuring from the front of the hand brake drum to the rear of the gbox cross member, this measurement is approx 13 inches on my 90. Measuring from the rear of the trans guard to where the rear of the dip in the guard to wrap around the crossmember is, this is 16 inches. So unless i cut 3-4 inches out of the guard it will not fit due to the guard not being happy fitting further back under the handbrake drum. This is the same on mine and my housemates completely standard manual 300tdi 90. 13 inches from front of handbrake drum to rear of gbox x-member 16 inches from rear of guard to rear of gbox x-member mount gbox x-member doesn't use the same mounts as used in Marvics. If it did, the trans guard would line up. We shall see what Peter at First Four comes with. He is comparing guards for tdi and pumas and getting back to me.

Aahh cheers. Thanks for that! Much appreciated :-)

I think the next round of LR4x4 T-Shirts / Stash should have our forum names on them. Unless you happen to mention the forum and your username you can be chatting to someone without knowing 'who they really are' unless you have previously met on forum goings on. Like the sound of a forum stand / Jolly! Tom

I was also very concerned by this, especially running 24v live into dash for battery light in very close proximity to Td5 12v loom, so i encased it in 4mm breather tube ha ha over the top i know but better safe than sorry. The rest of wiring is all 52mm winch cable so no more worried about that than my 12v's.

That is what i thought but when it is that far forward, the gearbox crossmember is further back than those holes so without further bracketing, i don't think that will work.

Cheers. Someone sent me that link earlier but i haven't been able to retrieve my password for AULRO so cheers. With the handbrake sitting just below the chassis not sure how this works as pictured there. There must be a standard fitted example somewhere, otherwise they surely wouldn't be selling the product any more lol

Earth is earth. I use same earth for my 12v and 24v systems. As Adam rightly points out, only +ve to worry about.

Ross, am hoping with their reputation, something like this would be pretty ubiquitous. So surprised have not been able to find a fitted picture.

Right, officially stumped and not had any luck looking for picies of one fitted or a fitting guide on the net . Have bought a Terrafirma TF856 transmission guard aka http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/_images/_images/l/1262-tf856_def_300td5_steel_trans_guard.jpg for my 90 (300tdi chassis with Td5 + R380) but can not fathom how to fit it..... That sounds ridiculous but the fixing holes in the plate do not seem to line up to anything sensible. Tried different positions and orientations and not yet found a winner. Before I make alterations to chassis or the guard, I wondered if anyone on here could point out my idiocy. Has anyone got a picture of one fitted they are able to share? Regards Sharpie