aerocorey

Thanks for the link. Reading that in the tech archive a few days ago is what led me to believe my boost diaphragm is bad. I've also already got the part number. Only thing I don't have is a place to buy one. Very frustrating. I tried giving the parts guy a part number. He doesn't even want the number until the 29th when he's ready to place the order.

What's LUCAS CAV? I haven't seen anything like that here. I'm getting a little discouraged. The lady I bought this truck from told me it was easy to find parts around here.

It's not on the turbo. It's in the fuel pump.

I am in need of a boost diaphragm. The one and only place within an hour drive of here that it seems I can get parts from is a Ford dealer. This Ford dealer won't even try to order my boost diaphragm for a week. Then they won't say how long it will take to arrive. Typical Italian customer service. I've found lots of places online, but I can't find boost diaphragms.

I figured that out. What do I do to fix it? I read your boost diaphragm how-to. That's what I'm planning to go with since I've also got pressure in the fuel tank.

I unplugged it. Fuel comes out of the boost line when it's unplugged.

I decided to just try it. It did the trick. At first it puffed all kinds of white smoke, but then it settled down. I ran an errand that needed running. On the way back it wasn't making any smoke at all with the exception of a healthy little puff of black when I stomped on the loud pedal. I haven't seen black smoke from my truck since I brought it home, just a steady stream of white until today. The diaphragm is so bad that there's diesel literally pouring from the hose that was plugged into the turbo. I tried to plug it with a screw, but it still drips. That explains the poor fuel economy of late. I'm sure once I replace the diaphragm and hook everything back up it'll run great.

My boost diaphragm is bad. It's smoking and revving up on its own. It's getting worse. I can't afford to park it and leave it until I can get a new boost diaphragm. Can I unplug the hose going to the turbo, plug it, and drive it?

I read the boost diaphragm how to. I think this is my problem. The truck does smoke alot. It's getting smokier, and my fuel economy is going to carp as well. I pulled the hose going to the turbo and it's wet inside. The only trouble with the boost diaphragm theory is that I can hear my turbo spooling, and the how to says my turbo shouldn't work with a bad diaphragm. It looks like a cheap and easy to replace part, so I'll buy one when I get paid. In the meantime can I simply plug the hose going into the turbo? Can I wire the wastegate one way or the other to keep the turbo from spooling uncontrolled? Today I was idleing the truck and it revved up all by itself. It had only been running for a minute. I pulled the key out and it stopped. Right before it did this it started chugging out TONS of white smoke. I understand plugging this hose and disabling wil turn my engine into a dog until I fix it, but it's better than hurting someone in traffic with a surging truck. Parking it is not an option.

As I dig into the dashboard of my 90 I realize how much hacking has been done to it. Does anyone have a pic of what my dash likely looked like when the truck was new? Not just the cluster, but the whole dashboard. It'm going to redo it. I need inspiration.

Thanks for all the replies. All of the tie rod/steering/panhard rod ends are around a year old. PO started to work on this wobble before I bought the truck. I'll check the swivel preloads this weekend. I have also been planning to adjust some slack out of the steering box. I'll post up when it's fixed.

My front end starts shaking at around 70 kph. In the Jeep world we call that the "Death Wobble". Whatever it's called in the LR world, I need to get a handle on it. Stock springs, stock size tires. Tires are balanced, lug nuts are tight. I plan to replace all 4 shocks and the steering dampener. You fellas think that will do the trick?

Pretty much!

Definately an easier slution. Accomplishes the same thing. I found it handy to remove the VSR plug altogether because it gave me a place to mount the headlight relay. I also find it annoying to leave beind useless plugs and bits of wiring, but that's my problem. This is probably a better quick and easy fix than mine.

Leaving your lights on will do the same thing. The solution would be don't leave your RHW on with the engine off and the key on. There's even a bright amber warning light on the cluster. If you leave the key on with the engine off and that light telling you the defroster is on long enough to kill the battery you deserve to have to jump start your truck because you are an idiot. This is how I fixed mine without paying for a needless voltage switch.

I got to thinking, why does there need to be a VSR for the rear defroster? There isn't one for anything else on the truck. Mine is bad, I decided to yank it out. Here's how to do it for those who aren't electrically inclined. Before you try this to fix your defroster you should make sure that the fuse isn't blown. If the fuse is good and you get a defroster light on the cluster with the switch on and your defroster doesn't work this could be the fix for you. -Pull the cluster out. -Lift the VSR and plug off of its perch on the firewall. -Cut all of the wires at the base of the plug. -Splice the 1 black wire and the 2 black/slate wires together. -Pop the hood and look for a single brown/black wire plugged into a 3 pin connector. The 3 wires are brown, black, and green. The brown/black wire will be lined up with the brown wire on the 3 pin connector. -Unplug the brown/black wire and zip-tie it out of the way. -Turn on the rear defroster while your hand is on the relay next to where the VSR used to be. Feel for the click. If it clicks...you're done. If no click you've got other issues.

Thanks, that's what I thought it might be. I think PO had some kind of crappy secret fuel cut-off switch.

It's pretty managable when you are expecting it. When it happens it's usually in the middle of a shift. I just finish the shift, let the clutch out, and tap the brakes if nessecary. It did it once when I was driving in reverse. That one scared the tar out of me.

I'll check this out too.

Throttle return spring is good. I haven't had much chance to dig into the engine. I'll check for oil leaks. There's an electrical plug on the fuel pump. Is it a heater? It wasn't plugged in right before.

I find it a little confusing as well, but it's all good stuff to know. I'm not interested in fitting a timer or any relays. All I really needed was to know how to properly work my heat/start switch. All is well.

I start my truck and let it warm up in the driveway before work. When I pull out of the driveway and shift to second gear the engine will revv up really high on its own. It sounds like the turbo is spooling up and taking the engine with it. It gets so high that I think the valves are floating. I'll get it into gear and let the clutch out, then use the brake to keep the truck from running away with me. Then it goes back to normal. Once it gets that one run out of its system it won't do it again until I park it and let it cool down. It usually does it again as I'm pulling out of the parking lot after work. What's going on with it?

Not only do they still exist, before we moved here my wife managed a Radio Shack in Utah. I'll see what they have available online. My defroster worked briefly after starting the engine and stepping on the throttle. It hasn't worked since, meaning that there isn't 12V at the spade where the defroster gets power, not that the elements aren't hot. My voltmeter shows I'm charging at 14V. I think I need a new VSR.

Miscommunication...I'm looking for it on the diagram, not in the truck. I found it in the truck, and it's where the mystery brown/black wire leads. I figured if I found the VSR on the diagram I could move the mystery wire to it's proper home. I eventually found it on a diagram for the rear window defroster. The brown/black wire is in the correct location. I do, however, now have a new question. How does the VSR fit into the defroster system? I got the defroster all hooked up, but there's only 12V at the rear window occasionally. It seems the switching side of the defroster relay grounds through the VSR, but only when the VSR chooses. I'm really tempted to remove the VSR and ground the defroster relay to the firewall. Anyone done it? It ticks me off that everything is hooked up, and I have that sweet little defroster light shining at me, but the defroster isn't doing anything. And once again, Western, thanks for the info.

Western, you are clearly the go-to guy for info about electronic upgrades. I appreciate all the info. I just spent 2 days tearing apart, sorting, and organizing all of the wiring in my new (to me) truck. Now that I have the diesel connector hooked up and I know where to hold the key (thanks to Monster) my glow plugs and glow plug indication work like a charm. I'm gonna stay with the stock setup for now.