[BOTH REAR ELECTRIC WINDOWS STOPPED WORKING]

Many thanks for your replies and detailed explanations

i'll do it next week + report back

Pierre

JUST A THOUGHT BEFORE i START : ARE YOU SURE i SHOULD NOT CHECK THE RELAY FIRST ?

NOT CLEAR AT ALL ON THE HAYNES MANUAL WHERE IT IS

PETER

[BOTH REAR ELECTRIC WINDOWS STOPPED WORKING]

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=29627

Many thanks for your replies and detailed explanations

i'll do it next week + report back

Pierre

[BOTH REAR ELECTRIC WINDOWS STOPPED WORKING]

Hi

always on the subject of electric windows :my REAR electric windows have stopped working (BOTH)

they do not work either from the central console switch or from the door switch

neither up or down

the front ones are OK

I thought :simple and easy ,it is the fuse

But the fuse is ok! Could it be a relay?

where would such a relay be ?

Please help

Peter

[300 tdi Oil leak]

Anyone know if it is possible for oil to be leaking from the brake vaccuum pump situated on the RHS of the block on a 300 tdi engine. It seems to be coming from the casing of the pump not the actual mating surface of the block where the gasket is???

thought oil was leaking from rocker cover but done that and not sure now???

any ideas appreciated ,thanks

Hi

happened to me

replaced the pump ,which was quite worn

from memeory ,leak came from plate riveted to the body=cannot be repaired

Easy job

Peter

[Pulling to the left]

No I didn't. Would that not upset the wheel allignment/toe-in ?

Sorry ,wrong advice ,I responded too quickly

In fact ,I used this adjustment to centre the steering wheel

The problem ith my tdi pulling to the left was excessive play in the top swivel pin bearing

Taking most of the shims out ,thus reducing the play did cure the problem

nb : play in top swivel bearing was due to wear,itself due to rust :water manages to get into the swivel pin housing

This may not apply to your case as I think you said you replaced these bearings

If that is the case ,might be worth rechecking the play on each wheel,particularly in the vertical plane

Peter

[Pulling to the left]

you do not seem to have played with the adjustment nut just after the arm on the steering box

this is the first thing to do

half turn or maybe one turn=problem solved !!

Think carefully about clock or anticlockwise !!

Peter

You have tried everything. Are the four wheels braking if one is not, or not fully, because the caliper/piston is sticking then that would give you the problem. Are all the pads the same thickness.

What happened just before you had the problem have you changed something that could be related or did it just appear.

There's not much left is there.

[rev counter having a fit!!]

Mine did that before alterantor failed (bearing)

Peter

[EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION(EGR)BYPASS?]

I did mine approx 18months ago and I have to say that having cleaned out all the muck from the inlet manifold and intercooler it definately runs cleaner and smoother since, but my egr had failed, If it is working correctly the mod should not make any difference. This thread may help clicky here.

HTH

Pete.

Pete

interesting !

how did you notice the EGR was not working?

Have you noticed any change since you did the bypass(mpg,noise,emissions...)

Peter

[EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION(EGR)BYPASS?]

Hi

i read a while ago ,that a few Disco owners had put an EGR bypass or simply put a plate between EGR and admission pipes.They claim that the inlet section is then much cleaner since there is no exhaust gas mixing into the admission ,:no oil, no crud

EGR was designed to reduce nitrous oxydes ,as was the priority in those times ,before fashion focused on CO2(who speaks about nitrous oxydes today ?)

I can see the benefit of having a clean inlet section and of ,incidentally ,reducing the heat in the inlet section ,but could there be unexpected disadvantages ?

So ,do you think EGR bypass is a good idea? would you do it ?

peter

[DOOR LOCK SERVO NOT WORKING/300 TDI ?]

I'd agree with the replies - it's the spring.

I'd advise you to change the spring in a confined space or drape a towel over the lock as you do it though. Took me 5-10 mins to do my rear door lock - but an hour to find the sodding spring that pinged off and landed on the street with my first attempt.

Also agree they all go in quick succession so would suggest you just buy the 5 spring pack (see ebay).

ok ,i'll do that

many thanks

peter

[DOOR LOCK SERVO NOT WORKING/300 TDI ?]

What cipx2 says is spot on. You need to change the little springs (a few quid from Ebay) and the problem will go away!)

many thanks ,cpx2

it ios only because i have been so busy toa=day that I did not buy the actuator !!

I'll do exactly what you say ,change the spring

Nice week end to you all

peter

[DOOR LOCK SERVO NOT WORKING/300 TDI ?]

What cipx2 says is spot on. You need to change the little springs (a few quid from Ebay) and the problem will go away!)

many thanks ,cpx2

it ios only because i have been so busy toa=day that I did not buy the actuator !!

I'll do exactly what you say ,change the spring

Nice week end to you all

peter

[DOOR LOCK SERVO NOT WORKING/300 TDI ?]

i happen to have a spare lock set, i stripped out a tailgate from a 300tdi, i have the 200 and swapped all my stuff over, if you need anything give me a shout, will post no probs. also look for broken wires where they come through the bodywork into the tailgate, goodluck

Many thnaks for your responses

The lock itself is fine

Particularly after the above post ,i am now fairly sure this is the servo which is not doing its job

i'll change it

Peter

[DOOR LOCK SERVO NOT WORKING/300 TDI ?]

I am opening this new thread ,instead of responding to the old one

I have a 1992 Discovery 300TDI which has developed a fault with the rear door servo lock and I was just wondering if any of you have experienced something simlar, or have any ideas.

I have tried to lift and lower the servo unit on its plate :does not work : If I move the servo down ,the door can be opened when I press the keyfob ,BUT ,i cannot lock the door with the keyfob

When I move the servo up ,it is the contrary that happens

I suspect it could be the servo that is faulty :movements not ample enough?

how do you check if a servo is ok ? If it is not the servo ,what do you think it could be ?

The lock itself is fine ,once the button is pushed up manually ,the lock works very well

When the button is pushed down manually ,,the door is properly locked

My problem comes from the servo I think ,which does not push enough up and down

Do servos wear should they be replaced ?

Peter

[Disco TD5 Drivers Door Lock]

Best of luck, I've never managed to fix a Disco II door lock. Disco I locks break springs that can be changed but the DII lock is a monolithic thing designed to be replaced and not fixed.

Thanks for your comments

the lock itself is fine ,once the button is pushed up manually ,the lock works very well

When the button is pushed down manually ,,the door is properly locked

My problem comes from the servo I think ,which does not push enough up and down

Do servos wear should they be replaced ?

Peter

[Disco TD5 Drivers Door Lock]

Hi

got the same problem now

|I can't see a response to this older post

I have tried to lift and lower the servo unit:does not work : If I move the servo down ,the door can be opened when I press the keyfob ,BUT ,i cannot lock the door with the keyfob

When I move the servo up ,it is the contrary that happens

I suspect it could be the servo that is faulty :movements not ample enough?

how do you check if a servo is ok ? If it is not the servo ,what do you think it could be ?

Peter

[oil leak vacuum pump/rumbling noise]

Thanks for all the advice

I do not have a sthetoscope ,but I use a metal rod :one end on the part to investigate ,and the other pressed against the ear

It is quite useful

Peter

[oil leak vacuum pump/rumbling noise]

I wouldn't necessarily rely on the logic of it getting worse until you can identify it properly.

I had a similar experience - I knew the bearing was iffy in either my alternator or water-pump, but couldn't tell which one......... until the alternator seized, fan-belt snapped and I had a ride home on the back of the big yellow taxi (he was a very nice man).

Is it possible to buy (or rig) a short belt that'll run just the individual units? - obviously only for test purposes in the garage, but maybe it'd help to identify which bit is on it's way out? Nick a pair of the missus' stockings

Dunk

VERY GOOD ,YOUR IDEA OF TESTING THE PULLEYS INDIVIDUALLY

I'LL TRY IT !

PETER

[oil leak vacuum pump/rumbling noise]

I wouldn't mess with anything to do with brakes because if it fails and you end up stuffed up somebody's tailpipe the insurers will (could) crucify you if the manufacturer says it is a non serviceable part...

sounds like a bearing noise to me perhaps water pump? alternator bearing is usually a loud whirring/whining noise

try taking off the viscous fan unit and see if it is the bearing in that, those bearings fail all the time had about 4 new viccy units on my 2.5 year old 90 all under warranty!!

good point what you say about insurance !!

Viscous fan ,I looked at it closely in situ ;i can turn it easily ,with no hard point ,same as alternator ,water pump ,steering pump and tensioner !!

I'm starting to think it is a worn bearing in one of these but as this fault is recent ,it only shows at high revs/with tensionned belt

i am trhinking of continuing to drive carefully

In all logic ,it should become worse and worse ,and then i'll be able to see where it comes from

By G ,what a relief when I could see it did not come from the engine itself

peter

[oil leak vacuum pump/rumbling noise]

Hi

just replaced my vacuum pump this morning .It was working ,but there was a leak at the top end (the part furthest away from the engine ) there is sort of a lid attached with rivets and I think the oil was seeping through there ,one or several of the rivets must have become slightly loose

Just a thought : one could drill the rivets out and replace them with bolts and nuts .This would tighten the lid and suppress the leak

has any body done it ?would be a cheap way to resolve the issue !

Questrion now :i hear a sort of rumbling noise coming from the front of the engine ,with occasionally sort of a grinding impact

First ,i thought a bearing had gone ,probably the alterantor one

I took the secondary belt out ,started the engine :no noise at all.

So the problem is either :

Water pump :changed 3 month ago

tensioner pulley

steering pump alternator

I have checked manually for any hard point on these 4 pulleys :everything looks normal,no hard point ,no noise ,no significant play

Weird !have you ever come accross this ?

Peter

[oil leak]

I'm talking about the servo can on the master cylinder that cracks, not the pump, but I don't mess with anything in a braking system, I change it!

Vacuum pump ordered today

should arrive Tuesday

many thanks

Peter

[oil leak]

There are no internal parts available for this from LR, I know that, whether anybody recons them I don't know. Personally at that age I'd sling it and put a new one on, lucky its lasted (if the original which it may not be) as the 300Tdi vacuum pumps are not reknowned for a long and happy life!

Can't recall if the servo unit is the same on a Disco or not (I think maybe not) but the brake servo on 300Tdi Defenders is a regular failure, they crack around the bolt holes on the front of the servo can, we change loads of them at work, symptoms are a loss of brake vacuum, can be hardly noticeable except under emergency braking which is not a good time to find out... or the brakes can be as bad as if the engine was off.

Many thanks for your reply ,it is good to know you are not the only one in that situation

You must be spot on ,there must be small cracks that let the oil seep

when these crack widen ,i'll loose the braking power

Ill be ordering a new pump tomorrow!!

many thanks again and ..Happy New Year

peter

[oil leak]

Hi

300 tdi /160 000 miles obviously developing a few leaks

One I would like to stop is coming from the air pump that activates the break depression bell

the leak is not at the pump/engine junction ,but in the head itself

this head seems to be riveted

is is possible to repair/seal ?

if not ,is this expensive ?

thanks for your advice and...Happy XMAS to you all

Peter

[TRACK ROD ADJUSTMENT :HELP !]

My Disco failed mot on track rod ball joints Took off trackrod and removed them with big adjustable spanner and a vice Use heat, WD40, and a lot of effert turning first one way then other way gradually frees up Good Luck with yours

Rich

coming back to the forum abit late

I finally took the track rod bar out ,put it in avice ,heated ...

Given the force required ,i am not sure anything else would have worked

Thanks to you all

Peter

[high pitched/whining noise]

the noise is from the top right hand corner of what?

i thought engine but you wouldnt be able to tell when acclerating (not with a fancy harness or a good grip)

i Should have said :top right hand corner of the engine (when looking into the engine bay)