Julian
-
Posts
246 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Julian
-
-
Do you need a new steering wheel (the one with the switches in built)
No you don't.
There's a chap on e-bay who sells the master switch, steering wheel control, instructions and a template.
Remove the airbag, mark out the hole you need to cut with the supplied template, cut the hole, mount the switches and re-fit the airbag - it's not much more than an hour's work. The wiring and fixing for the switches is already in place.
I cut the hole with an 'aluminium cut' carbide burr in the die-grinder, but that's only because I have one - you can use practically anything.
You don't have to be particularly accurate with the hole cutting, there's a big rubber grommet (just like the steering radio controls) that'll cover it all up!
Julian.
-
The inventor has been dead for a few years but was found guilty of fraud. I quick search on google groups found this:
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.energy....7cd1cee1e7&
Sunday Times Innovation 1 Dec. 96 (http://www.sunday-times.co.uk)
End of road for car that ran on Water
American court finds inventor of water-powered car is guilty of fraud.
Report by Tony Edwards
It appears to be the end of the road for maverick inventor Stanley Meyer and
his water-powered car after a recent American court verdict.
The car was a wonderful, if unlikely, dream while it lasted, offering a
pollution-free future powered by a limitless source of energy. But the
dream was shattered when Meyer was found guilty of fraud after his Water
Fuel Cell was tested before an Ohio judge.
It is rare for an inventor to be prosecuted for an invention that does not
work, but Meyer's problem was that he had been selling "dealerships",
offering investors the "right to do business'' in Water Fuel Cell tech-
nology in anticipation of the day when water would power anything From
domestic boilers to cars and aircraft.
But recently two suspicious investors could not wait for that day to dawn
and sued Meyer to get their money back.
Meyer defended, maintaining his long-held claim that the Water Fuel Cell was a truly
revolutionary invention that could split water into its two constituent
gases of hydrogen and oxygen far more efficiently than conventional
electrolysis. The secret, he said, was to "resonate" electricity at a very
high voltage through water and so "fracture" the hydrogen/oxygen molecular
bond. This, he claimed, opened the way for a car which would "run on wat-
er", powered simply by a car battery. The car would even run for ever since
the energy needed to continue the "fracturing" was so low that the bat-
tery could be recharged: from the engine's dynamo.
Meyer claimed to have adapted a 1.6-litre Volkswagen Dune Buggy to run on
water. He replaced the sparkplugs with "injectors" which, he said, sprayed
water as a fine mist in a "resonant cavity" where it was bombarded by a
succession of high-voltage electrical pulses. He claimed this instantly
converted the water into a mixture of hydrogen and oxygen that could be
combusted in the cylinders, driving the pistons just as in an ordinary
petrol engine.
One of the experts due toexamine the car was Michael Laughton, professor
of electrical engineering at Queen Mary and Westfield University, London,
but he was not allowed to see it. "Although Meyer had known about our
visit weeks in advance, when we arrived he made some lame excuse about why
the car wasn't working, so it was impossible to evaluate it," said
Laughton.
However, the one thing Meyer had built that appeared to work was his Water
Fuel Cell, and it was this device that the Ohio judge called as evidence in
the recent lawsuit.
The cell had been the centrepiece of Meyer's sales pitches. It was a
transparent cylinder of water inside which was a core of stainless steel
electrodes. When plugged into an electrical supply,the cell bubbled away
merrily, producing apparently copious amounts of gas that Meyer ignited
through a welding torch.To the layman it was an impressive performance and
hundreds of small investors signed up, but it did not impress three expert
witnesses in court.
They decided that there was nothing revolutionary about the cell at all and
that it was simply using conventional electrolysis.
Meyer was found guilty of "gross and egregious fraud" and ordered to repay
the investors their $25,000 (£15,000).
-
I think my 04 Td5 should have the coolant changed, the service record doesn't show it ever having been done.
Rave says that I need coolant with organic acid corrosion inhibitor, but I've only got the standard ethylene glycol (blue) in stock.
Would anyone know if there is a good reason for sticking to the manufacturer's recommendation or will the normal blue stuff be OK?
Cheers Julian.
-
Heated seats and heated windsreen
That's interesting, are my seats (04 model) and windscreen already fitted with the electrical gubbins, and all that's needed is the correct switch for the dash?
I did the cruise control thing, very well worth the hour's work.
Julian.
-
I had this on my 300 tdi it was water coming in down the heater air intake under the bonnet near the widscreen as the rubber gasket had perished i just unbolted it and put some clear silicon round it and it hasnt leaked since oh the reason water got there in the first place was the inner wing drains were blocked,i cleared mine with a wire coat hanger.
Thanks, I'm thinking that my car is still a bit new to suffer perished gaskets, but blocked drains on the inner wing would sound very likely.
I wonder if you could describe exactly where these drains are situated so I can give them a poke!
Cheers Julian.
-
My new (to me - sold the old 200tdi) 04 TD5 has a water leak. It filled the rubber mat that I put down on the passenger side floor with rainwater last night. Investigation showed it to be coming from a hole in the cardboard piece fitted behind and forward of the glove box.
Before I go off on a wild goose chase with this or take it back to the dealer for them to investigate, I was wondering if anyone has seen this before (most likely at a guess
) and is aware of an easy fix?Cheers Julian
PS, not posted for a while because the 200tdi was so reliable - the TD-5 electric fuel pump has already packed in and needed changing - I've had the car one week and it's only done 50,000 miles!
-
I'm slowly doing the head gasket on the van. This heat isn't helping!
Or the fact that I've never done a head gasket before!
Anyway, after lifting the air filter box, I discovered each pipe in the inlet has about 3mm thick carbon/oil goo coating the around the inside of the pipe.
There is some EGR stuff going on from the exhaust manifold, through the airbox and back into the inlet.
Is it normal to have this amount of soot?
Doesn't look right to me.
Van has about 90k miles on it, and it's a relault diesel lump
Quite normal with EGR, also the back of the intake valves will be gooed up too. deactivate the EGR system ASAP!
-
Well after paying him 300 notes for a rear cage section just over a year ago, I haven't seen cage or money back!!!
Since December he has promised numerous times to pay the money back and nothing. Now I'm going to have to take out a small claims court action against him. Lots of paperwork and hassle for me.
Seriously tinkles me off when you get this from a fellow forum member
Rant over
Steve
You need 'money clain online' I've used it and can recommend it.
-
The HD rings have longer bolts to fit HD turrets and the metal ring is thicker steel, so less likely to rust away like the standard ones do
My 1990 disco ones have got holes around the bottom, but I don't think that's too bad for a 16 year old vehicle?
-
The easiest way to get the Track rod (behind the axle) off is to turn the steering to full right lock, then remove the left hand end first.
This will give you enough clearance. You may need to go to full left lock to get the right hand end off.
The track rod should be perfectly straight. If you straighten it, I suggest you keep it as an emergency spare only. Once they have bent once, they bend much more easily the second time round. The Track rod on the coil sprung landrovers is notoriously prone to getting bent if the vehicle is used off road. Many people choose to fit uprated track rods eg SUMO bars or sleeve the track rod with a tube eg DAN BAR.
Regards,
Diff
I've done the swivels now. I needed some new trackrod ends for the trackrod, they were full of rust and stiff/notchy. I straightened the track rod by putting it between two axle stands and giving it a wallop with a lump hammer, then I needed to warm it to remove the ends and dragged the threads out of the link end! (Grrr!!) Beam Ends in Stoke have a new rod and link, so it's off on Monday for collect them.
I'm not sure why the rod had become bent in the first instance, the vehicle had only seen light use and towed the odd horse trailer - maybe the semi-siezed track rod ends caused it?
Cheers Julian.
-
I've started the swivels, the off side lower swivel bearing was collapsed with a broken cage. Also the chrome balls have some chrome missing and rusty bits right at the bottom, so it's new ones of these too.
Question:
The track control arm has a slight kink in it just where the damper bracket is located. is this correct or should it be straight? My next door neighbour has oxy/acet so I can straighten it easily.
Also, I could not remove the TCA as per the instruction in the tech archive, it won't lift up enough for the ball joint threads to clear the tapers because of interference from the axle arms. (not sure of the correct terminology) They came away after the the hubs had been loosened - what's the normal way to get the TCA off?
Cheers Julian.
-
Just a thought.
Check out Morris Lubricants 'Ankor Wax.' In my opinion it's a far better product than Waxoyl, you seem to get a thicker more resilient coating that dries quickly. I've been using it for a while now and am very pleased.
-
Update:
I've replaced that rear axle ball joint and it's transformed the vehicle, all the clunks and clonks have gone!
I didn't use a press I just walloped the new joint into the housing with a short shaft sledge and a suitable length of steel pipe.
Now for those swivels.... A job that I'm not looking forward to
-
>PS. fill in your profile.
I've done what I can, now everyone will know my age!
>If there is that much in the king pins, then they could be broken or maybe bearings collapsed. I would look at it sooner rather than later anyway.
I agree, I don't like the look of all that play, next week was my target.
I'm getting stuff from Land Rover Supermarket (near Liverpool Airport) because it's quite close to me in Warrington- is the place OK, or can 'the team' point me in a better direction? I have to say that the new spiders they supplied for my front propshaft don't have dust seals that are as good a quality as the originals. They have alloy rings holding the seal that are just crimped onto the cups, one or two of these rotated on the cup rather than the seal moving on the spider! I'll give them a shot of grease every oil change and see how they go...
Julian.
-
Firstly hello to all, I've just stumbled across this site as a result of looking for maintenance advice.
On Friday I bought an 1990 Tdi Discovery from a friend, this is my first Land Rover, It's only done about 100,000 miles and the chassis, engine, gearbox, transfer box and diffs are all in first class condition.
It does have plenty of faults though! I've already replaced the front propshaft UJ's (one was collapsed) and the rear shocks. (top rubber mounts almost gone)
Both front swivels are spewing oil, and when I rock the wheels I can see massive play in the lower pins. The funny thing is the rounded bit that the seal runs on is perfect so it looks like I can keep the cost down. I;'ve spotted the article on this site about doing this job. (anyone want some practice!)
Aside from that there is some quite loud clonking that appears to come from the rear of the vehicle when going on and off the throttle abruptly. On top of the rear axle is a ball joint that lives in an 'A' frame thing - I've found play in this, could this be causing the clunk? All of the other suspension bushes, although very old, look OK and stand being levered with my large screwdriver.
Lastly, just how much does the transmission and suspension clunk and knock in these types of vehicles? It's got to be more than (say) a Ford Focus, but never having owned one before I'm not sure what is the norm.
Thanks in advance
Julian.
) and is aware of an easy fix?
Antifreeze types
in Discovery Forum
Posted
Thanks chaps, I'm going to driain the pink stuff tomorrow, find a suitable hose to disconnect and try and flush the system through. Blue glycol it is! That's good because I buy the stuff by the 5 gallon drum for the tractors and all the other stuff around the place.
Dooroy - you don't have to buy the pink organic acid stuff from an agent at 4 times the price. All the motor factors sell it at a more realistic price - though it is more expensive than the conventional stuff. Here's the Comma product:
http://www.commaoil.com/Product%20Pages/Co...uperredconc.htm
Julian.