Julian
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Posts posted by Julian
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Sounds like the float chamber is flooding. Check the float for leaks (if it's brass) and the needle valve for gumming/sticking/foreign bodies.
Julian.
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mine sits at 60-70mph quite happily
at cruising revs.on the other hand, my old 2.25d never sat at anything above 50 max. thats on 600 tyres and foot to the floor
What I find with mine is that on the motorway it will run along quite happily at about 55mph in OD 4th, ie exactly the speed of the lorries running up against their governors. So I can sit behind one at a sensible distance and relax ;-)
Julian.
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Remember that while an OD gives a 28% gearing increase, 3.54 diffs give roughly 35% - it's a much bigger increase. Ashcroft's high ratio transfer case uses standard low gears but taller high gears, about 30-32% if I recall correctly, and like the OD, the don't affect speedo callibration. That's still to tall for NADs, but worth considering for punchier engines where you want to leave low ratio unaffected and don't like the added complexity or weak link of an overdrive, and it's a fraction of the cost too.
Yep. Sticking with what I've got - It's just that I can't help play around with things and experiment! I like my OD as I find 3rd+OD is very useful for hills out on the road when 3rd is too low and 4th causes it to start bogging.
Julian.
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Big tyres, them's for a 109 or optional on an 88....don't bother swapping diffs until you fitted a TDi.
Yesterday I went for a long run. 45-50mph is the sorts of speeds that I do when the road allows and I was noticing that I spent a fair amount of time in 4th overdirve with my foot on the boards. (light soot from the exhaust that you can see from the door mirror.) I decided that I was kidding myself thinking that the engine would be happy with Rover diffs, well it might now and again on a nice level road with a following wind but anything but the ideal is going to see constant gear changing and fiddling with the OD lever.
Best leave it as nature intended!
Julian.
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Swap the diffs over then! The front diff doesn't wear much because it spends most of its time idling, with the road wheels turning it and the only resistance the prop UJs and 4wd front casing's bearings and oil. The rear is driving all the time, though, so gets the most wear.
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That's a brilliant idea,- It'll be a job for the winter probably after I've done the gearbox. Total cost = two new gaskets :-)
My front axle has probably done next to nothing as it has FWH fitted. And (I guess) the crown wheel & pinion mostly works on the backside of the teeth as it's going backwards....
When I remove the rear axle I will look into reducing the 'lash' in the thing - the pinion engagement probably needs tightening up at a guess?
Julian.
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I also don't believe that every bearing coming out of China is poor. Shanghai Bearing Co. is reputedly good stuff.
Sure, the Chinese can build the atom bomb and send spaceships into orbit - you can't do that with carp bearings!
Some companies within China are obviously happy to build and fabricate to any price as dictated by the buyer. You get what you pay for, hence cheap price = nasty quality.
If the board of directors of Britparts went to Timken and said ''make these bearings for £5.00 each for us to sell'' they would be politely told to eff off!
Julian.
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Transfer box and front output housing:
No real bothers here. Thankfully the bearings on the high/low speed shaft were in good condition as one is listed as £125+VAT on Simplybearings
Intermediate shaft needle rollers also good. The only bearing needing swapping was the front output shaft bearing as it had got rusty and luckily a good branded one was £25.That bearing was rusty because of water getting in through this part:
http://www.brit-car....php?xProd=78698
The selector shaft cover - it had rusted through into several holes. As it looks like I can get a replacement cover I'm going to try covering the holes with MIG wire in the morning, and if I bsugger it up then I have a solution.
I tell you what, when you price up a number of decent (not Chinese carp) bearings and some internal components like synchro assemblies it makes you wonder how the gearbox re-conditioners do it for the money - especially when you stick time into the equation.
Julian.
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Transfer box and front output housing:
No real bothers here. Thankfully the bearings on the high/low speed shaft were in good condition as one is listed as £125+VAT on Simplybearings
Intermediate shaft needle rollers also good. The only bearing needing swapping was the front output shaft as it had got rusty and luckily a good branded one was £25.That bearing was rusty because of water getting in through this part:
http://www.brit-car....php?xProd=78698
The selector shaft cover - it had rusted through into several holes. As it looks like I can get a replacement cover I'm going to try covering the holes with MIG wire in the morning, and if I bsugger it up then I have a solution.
I tell you what, when you price up a number of decent (not Chinese carp) bearings and some internal components like synchro assemblies it makes you wonder how the gearbox re-conditioners do it for the money - especially when you stick time into the equation.
Julian.
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Ok thanks. I'll leave it as it is. One of the reasons I was condidering taller diffs is because I suspect the rear diff on mine is fairly worn. It makes no noise but there's a lot of 'lash' in the propshaft when you compare it to the front diff.
Julian.
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Tyres are 7.50 by 16
How does that compare with 205's?
Julian.
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The box is all back together now, all's well so I've moved onto the transfer box and front output housing.
Just incase anyone hasn't bumped into the on-line pdf manuals then I found them here:
http://www.landroverweb.com/landrover/pdf-land-rover-manuals/
I dowloaded them all onto the hard drive.
Very useful indeed as it details how to 'trim' the bronze bushes to get the required end-float etc
Julian.
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Yes i suppose working hard in low box is the worst case, especially if you make the engine 'lug' at low revs as the fan will only be turning slowly.
I don't really do that, as I just pull a trailer on the roads as a worst case and 1st in high box is enough to climb a 1 in 1
I beginning to wonder now that i've got all this new found power by advancing the pump timing if I could try some 10 spline Range Rover diffs, maybe just do the rear one first and see how it goes..... What do you think SWB 2 1/4 Diesel already fitted with Fairey OD, am I asking too much?
Julian.
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Another way to gain about 1BHP: Take the standard 4 bladed fan and grind two blades off at the hub.
As I didn't know if I'd get any cooling problems I purchased a fan off the ebay to experiment with, reasoning that if the experimentation was a failure I could swiftly stick the old fan back on. The fan that arrived was a slightly smaller diameter than that fitted, but nevertheless I set to with the grinderette and loped off two blades. I can report that I have absolutely no bothers with cooling, the hottest day so far has been 22C. I guessed that stationary in traffic would be the worst case so left it running after a good blast while I drank a cup of tea and the temp stayed rock steady 1/2 scale deflection.
I didn't want to fit an electric fan, probably a better alternative, as I don't like adding extra complication.
Julian.
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Sorted! A proper quality snap ring from Guy Salmon (LR dealer) and in it went without any bother. I must have been given a Britpart thing made from poor quality spring steel :-(
The casing is back on the bell housing now, the correct compliment of innards is inside and I can put my fingers down the top hole and engage the gears which I'm please to say are fine! I can also engage two gears and lock the box which is going to help me when I torque up the layshaft retaining bolt tomorrow!
Just the selector forks to get back in, (adjust if necessary) top to go back on and Bob's your uncle
Next up is the transfer box and the other housing. (don't know the proper name) I don't think much goes wrong there so maybe just new seals and a precautionary bearing or two?
Julian.
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Thanks snagger, very interesting. On the basis of what you say I'll leave it off.
One story - when I first got the vehicle I discovered that under heavy braking the engine revs increased. Investigation showed that the 'throttle' lever on the pump was pushing into the aircleaner, and further investigation revealed that 3 out of the 4 engine mounts were totally broken.
Some new mounting rubbers sorted that one!
Julian.
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Just to add a little to this thread.
My series 3 Diesel was a little sluggish and fairly smokey for the first several hundred yards after a cold start. But that was how I thought things should be as I specifically went for a Diesel because of its crapness! Anyhow, one day when I had a few spare minutes I slackened the pump mounting bolts and advanced it up by about 2 degrees. (=4 degrees at the crank) Well, bsugger me the engine is now so much more lively and willing - at least another 7 or 8 bhp at a guess and after starting up in the cold the production of blue/white exhaust smoke has been seriously curtailed!
It is a little noisier now - a little more harshness to the engine note, but given the cacophony of other sounds from the machine it's no big deal!
Julian.
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Thanks Phil, I'll take your advice and get a Landrover one on Monday, I'm still awaiting some bearings so it's no big deal.
http://www.lrdirect.com/RTC1957-Mainshaft-Spring-Ring/
Do Pukka LR ones for about £4.15 I may even try the dealers on Monday with the part number.
Julian.
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This is the genuine thing maybe?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=221044270740&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:GB:1123
Julian.
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A bit of a conundrum has arisen :-(
I got a new snap ring (for holding 1st and 2nd gear on the mainshaft. I expanded it the absolute minimum to get it on and down the splines but noticed that this has taken it past its elastic limit and is not a tight fit on the bottom of it's grove.
I actually got two springs and so tried it twice and had the same result - ie you can move the clip around with a small screwdriver.
I don't know if I'm fussing too much and it will be OK or should I go off in search of a snap ring made from a better spring steel - as I see it (either on the over-run or drive) it takes the side load from the helical cut gears and it coming off would be disastrous!
Julian.
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Interesting. Is there a weakness with the original design? With 2 good engine mounts and 2 good gearbox mounts I find the the engine on my series 3 stays in the correct place!
Julian.
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Yes but six cyl petrol is smoothest delivery you can get........
Gas turbine is better!
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This series three box came off the ebay and I'm doing it up. (see other thread) It came with this additional Rose jointed mount, I'm sure it's not standard. Can anyone shed any light on it?
Julian.
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How's this for an alternative? Fit an electric fuel lift pump
Or delete the lift pump altogether? The Lucas DPA does not need a lift pump, there's a generation of old Peugeots out there with the XUD engine that never had one - the DPA can suck fuel with its integral vane pump.
I'd fit one of those in-line rubber hand operated priming pumps to assist after changing filters etc.
Julian.
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I'm in the course of rebuilding one at the moment - I'd just convinced myself that it was a suffix 'C' - when I found a large 'C' stamped on the primary shaft.
Might be worth a look.
Strangely my reverse gear has a badly damaged tooth - I've bought a Bearmach replacement which looks excellent and comes compete with the needle bearing.
Couldn't find any stamped 'C's.' I think the damage on my reverse gear was caused by the leaf spring from 3/4 synchro going through it - I wonder if your is the same?
Anyway, I've ordered all the bits from Landranger and should be with me tomorrow, including a new layshaft. I faxed them the part numbers and gave them explicit instructions to avoid any Britpart stuff! I'm expecting the bearings tomorrow from simplybearings,co,uk. Now all I need is some suitable Loctite for the rear input shaft bearing housing to stop oil migrating to the transfer box....
Julian.
at cruising revs.
Intermediate shaft needle rollers also good. The only bearing needing swapping was the front output shaft bearing as it had got rusty and luckily a good branded one was £25.
Is Britpart Really That Bad
in International Forum
Posted
Stories of steering relays made from cheese on series LR's that bend when you bump a curb! That did it for me, never ever fit anything Britpart, not ever ever ever!!!
I'm flabbergasted that they allow such dangerous stuff out on the market - coporate liability laws as they are would maybe see the directors facing 10 years in the slammer if their products killed someone?
Julian.