Henry Webster
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Posts posted by Henry Webster
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They are held up with 1" wide tie down straps. I don't have a better pic at the mo I'm afraid.
I don't actually race on the Terrafirma remote reservoir shocks, because we rebuilt all the suspension just before they introduced them. I am using 2.5" Milner Varidamps. Chalk and cheese from the twin ProComps that have served me well for many years! If the Terrafirma had landed just a few months earlier I reckon we would have tried them.
H
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This is the one - I replied there!
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The key to stopping them getting ripped off might be to do what I have done (and most of the Rally Raid boys do - with the same FIA regs):
And have some straps that hold them up out of the way when the going gets rough. Its in the spirit of the rules!
Here's a link to the Blue Book if you don't have the latest:
http://www.msauk.org/site/cms/contentCateg...sp?category=404
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Depends what you are swapping from and to!
If both are metric then should be a straight swap, but if you are swapping from an imperial disc to a later metric one you may need to blow the holes out a little, but not necessarily. Either way should be a fairly straight forward swap.
Like some of the others on this thread I would question whether it is necessary to go to vented. I have drilled and slotted discs and EBC GreenStuff pads in the racer and we regularly have to brake from 100-0 mph and I've never experienced fade once the brakes are properly bedded-in.
For the record I have 110 calipers on the front and standard Discovery set up on the rear.
H
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HI,
After all your assistance I could not find a price for the Aussie Tyre Changer equipment so I decided to buy one of these
for £48 with delivery insurance and VAT off Ebay Link
I've got one of these and it does a reasonable job, although we've had to beef it up after some sustained use and some stubborn old beads. I've also bolted an old LR hub to the top as the mount and clamp is a bit poor and runs the risk of damaging alloys. Now I can bolt LR wheels on securely and if I need to change anything else it unbolts from the top.
Interested in the tyre-pliers, they look like they would be a useful thing to take in the service van. Anyone know how much the set weighs?
H
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- Be careful about who's doing what with recovery gear, some people have a rather happy-go-lucky or gun-ho attitude to recovery so if you're not happy about what's going on, FFS say something or least least stand well back. Search for "dangerous recovery" on this forum for examples of how not to do it, and the consequences when it's done that way.
Can't agree with this more - don't be afraid to say NO - especially where recovery is involved.
I once turned down a snatch recovery, because the chap who offered had a strap wrapped around a drop plate and wanted to use that to attach to our snatch rope. Rather annoyingly one good snatch at that point might have got us out, rather than the three hour long mammoth wiching session in a blizzard that it turned into, as the vehicle sank further! I am still happy with that decision, because failure of the rope is potentially catastrophic!
Most of the best driver I have met have built up there skills gradually rather than thrown themselves off at the deep end!
H
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Check what Nige suggests, but when I have bent the 'axle' which I do fairly regularly it tends to be the swivels that have actually bent. New swivel balls straightens it up nicely.
It is however difficult to be sure where the bend is.
H
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Depending on the layout, could a Comp safari car could compete level(ish) with a challenge truck? The Challenge truck goes the slower straight, and the comp car goes fast round it?
You said it, depending on the layout...
From the videos I have seen on You Tube there didn't seem to be much that a comp car would need to go round, and it could do most of it faster!
Neil - I remember your post and I hope you get some comp drivers at the next one. I'm probably a little unusual, but I remember just about when the AWDC and others last ran Point-to-Points.
I think its a great format, if you can lick the safety concerns (which it looks like you have done!), but unfortunately not something that me or my current car are going to be tempted by at the moment. I will however watch with interest and encourage others!
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You may not find much difference between Ashcroft prices and Genuine.
So agreed - Ashcrofts or proper OEM if you can find them - GKN, Hardy Spicer etc. if the originals have lasted that long with you, but be picky!
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Why are you all looking at challenge cars for this
just use a comp car there built for speed, lighter, stronger and faster! 
Just what I was thinking looking at the vids, there didn't seem much that you couldn't tackle with a comp car. I reckon you could do very well with something that is properly damped for speed and doesn't have to deal with huge tyres bouncing around!
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It seems to sit firmly between winch challenge and comp safari. We all know that winch challenge is very slow and comp safari has developed so much, that now it is getting more like rallying. This XTC lets one group open up and go faster, whilst allowing all the old safari vehicles out there costing less than a small house, to be competitive again.
Going slightly off-topic...
Are you suggesting that it costs more than a small house to be competitive on Hillrallies and Comps these days?
I'm not convinced, although it helps if you can drive!
We've done pretty well on Hillrallies in the last 5 years (including 5th O/A Scottish Borders 2008 and 3rd O/A Baja National 2007 with regular class wins) in my Discovery, of which you could build an equivalent for approx £5000, possibly less.
I don't suppose there are many full-on challenge trucks that have had much less than that spent on them.
H
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Well done Neil, I'm glad to hear that it went well.
I'm probably not interested in entering this sort of event, I come from the rally/speed end of the spectrum, but it fills an excellent gap between Challenging and Comp Safaris/Hillrallies and can only allow for some more cross over between the two, which should be good for everyone.
There are certainly those compers who complain about comps being too fast and not enough technical stuff, and I know there is a desire amongst some challengers to go faster!
Looking forward to the pics and videos.
H
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Go for an internal cage?
Its tight but they do fit.
H
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Solid and a spare!
Sumo have been good for me (they certainly used to supply QT too!).
The one thing as you've found out, is that unlike a standard bar, the solid ones are a nightmare to straighten.
I'm not a metallurgist, but I would imagine that they are never as strong again anyway!
H
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I thought Sumos were always solid bars. Initially I think that was there great selling point. Dan bars were sleeved.
I've just bought a couple of new Sumos and am impressed with their quality. I don't bend them very often but I bent a sumo-type solid one and a gas pipe special last year on the same event!
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Quite simply I think I will need res shock as I wnat a long length but as short a body as possible
The Milner Varidamps were one of the shorter body lengths when I was looking. It was one of the reasons I went that way.
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Another of my F kenlowes has died today
Always had more luck with scrap yard fans. Current ones are Magnetti Marelli from a Fiat Ducato van or similar.
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So, question is what to fit ?
Can't really comment on the different makes as I've always used OEM ones on my road cars - but thought I'd mention that I don't actually use one at all on the racer and its not nearly as bad as you might imagine.
I have eaten a few steering boxs, usually by hitting rocks at 50mph on Scottish moorland, but I don't know whether the lack of steering damper has had any bearing on this.
I still have both my thumbs!
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are they all the same ratio then??
rob
ps where abouts in west oxon??
Yup, as standard RR and Disco, Defender are pretty much the same all the way through. Series Land Rover diffs are a different ratio.
Diffs are in Witney.
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what rear diff will my 98 300 tdi manual have in it? (also will it be 10 or 24 spline??)
my clunking sounds internal to the diff so will look into getting a sound used unit to just throw in it
Its likely to be a 24 spline. I've got a couple here in West Oxfordshire if you need one. From a reasonably lightly used K-reg RRC. I'd be looking for about £75 ono.
Cheers
H
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As I'm trying too keep weight down - I've just gone for making them really tight to the caliper and keeping the loop as small and as neat as possible.
Have not yet damaged one.
The other thing I have done is 'lifed' copper pipes so that they get replaced every couple of years. Probably not necessary on a daily driver or even a challenge truck, but its not much fun losing brakes in the middle of a 60km Baja stage from a work hardened fracture. In fact I am considering making it all out of flexi next time.
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In my opinion its well worth buying or borrowing a proper vice mounted lever-type flaring tool (£100+), because you get poor flares with any of the cheap ones.
We were lucky enough to find a Sykes Pickavent one on Ebay fro £60 which makes really good flares.
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Not very many options in pin-to-pin type and even fewer if you discount Fox-like prices. Milner's Varidamps that I use on the racer are available with standard LR fitment and are excellent, but not cheap.
Lots of others, including Procomp do remote reservoirs etc, but usually at Fox-like prices.
H
just use a comp car there built for speed, lighter, stronger and faster! 
Discovery V8 Silencer Replacement
in Discovery Forum
Posted
My racing Discovery has no centre box, personally would be too much for me as a daily driver, but it does mean that spectators are now a little less likely to step out in front of us!
These two vids might give you an idea.