jasonslaphead
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Posts posted by jasonslaphead
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Well my 90 used to have them I pulled them off this afternoon, they trap a whole pile of mud I had to sweep up the drive afterwards
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great stuff, thanks
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The bit with the arrow, is that there for the seat belt bar to mount onto or is it there to hold the tub? Im pretty sure my old truck cab didnt have these and if its not needed I will pull it off as im about to have a good go at my rear crossmember with a wire brush and give it a coat of something so it will just be in the way as I dont have any seats in the back .
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Its pretty good there is a bit of rust but its not too serious and the light panel and lights need refitting on one side but I got the bits with it and a couple of new reflecter triangles too.
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Picked it up this evening, used a transit with a tail lift. folded the legs up then tilted it up with the hitch end in the air and rolled it onto the tail lift put the hand brake on and sent it up then pulled it into the van. stuick the hand brake on and put the legs down and tied it up so it wouldnt roll about. Was easier than I expected. Had to unload it by my self but it was straight forward enough , they are a big heavy lump to pull around though.
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Not certain of weight, a widetrack is meant to be 375 kilo unladen so i expact a narrow track will be just a little under that. I plan on bringing some help with me and some ramps of some description
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I have bought a sankey trailer
As my 90 is half way through a few jobs at the moment and I have a few other things to move about im planning on renting a van for the day and loading it in the back instead of towing it. Has anyone ever had a sankey in the back of a van before and if so what van did you use?I have had a nose about the web and it appears that the width is 1.45m and 2.9m long can anyone confirm these sizes as I want to make sure I turn up with a suitable size van. ( the sankey is the older type without the drop down tailgate so I presume a narrowtrack)
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just undid the whole thing in the end. have the old ones off and the new ones will be on shortly
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Does this very detailed thread just down this page not help at all?
yep I have seen that thread and a few others but I was asking a specific question to find out was it possible to do it without taking the roof off completely. The reason I was thinking of trying to do it without taking it all off is my odd shifts at work mean im rarely home at weekends or evening and it makes it a bit harder to get help at a convenient time and I wouldnt be able to get to whole thing off on my own
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Is it possible to replace the tub capping on a 90 csw by just removing the panel above the capping (the one with the window in it) rather than removing the entire roof and sides ? It looks like it should be possible but I want to be sure I havent missed out something obvious before I start.
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Hi,
I'm looking at getting a raptor dash as they do look great. The question I have, is how does the CB fit in there. I have nothing with my CB that would keep it in place. Do you get a bracket of perhaps an insert like with the stereo??
cheers
Dave
yep there is a bar that goes from left to right across the back of the console just above where the cb mounts and the brackets mount on either side of the cb and attatch to the bar. Its a nice bit of kit, im very happy with mine
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Just tried my two local stores and found empty shelves
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I had this problem once before and ended up throwing the clip thing that holds the plate onto the bumper and pulling out the rubber bung in the front of the chassis where the jacking point is and sticking a finger in there to try to hold the nut plate in place. Its very fiddly but it works. Alternatively my new firstfour bumper had double sided sticky tape on the nut plate just to hold it in place so you could get the bolts started.
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there is a small hole in the knob, if you stick a small allen key or a nail or similar in there give it a little push and that will release it and the knob will slide off.
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sprocket likes to have a nap in the passenger footwell when on the road but when im out laning she sits up on the seat so she can have a look about
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I pulled the old arm off the old box to compare them and tried both arms on both boxes and they both went on the same so I think it just needed some encouragement. Its bolted up to the chassis now and I will finish it off tomorrow. thanks for the help
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I have just got round to getting my old steering box off, came off very easy after soaking all the bolts in releasing fluid for as few days
I am just about to fit the new box and the new drop arm but I want to check that I have the right drop arm, it doesnt seem to go as far up the splines as the old one did on the old box. I'm thinking it will probably go up a bit when I tighten the nut but I want to double check with someone who has done it before before I start forcing things. in the pic its on as far as it can go on without tightening the nut. I recon it need to go about 10mm more to be in the same position as on the old one.
So, should I just wind up the nut a bit and stop being a big girly or is there something wrong here. Never done this before thus wanting to check first.
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I gave all the fixings a good soaking with penetrating oil today and will probably pull it off tomorrow.
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I got one of the raptor ones at the indoor show the other week, Its really easy to fit . I have a midland cb already that suited one of the pre cut fronts im very happy with it. I used to have the cb fitted under the dash/shelf in front of the passenger seat but its a lot neater now. The console is a good solid piece of kit and well worth the money.
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Just realised I put steering pumps instead of box as the title. Doh !
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Before you do this
Check the small UJs on the shaft
check the drop arm is tight
and check the connection to the box from the steering shaft is Tight.
the last thing is the above then I would consider this as temp measure whilst locating a replacement.
I have checked the uj's drop arm ect and the play is definately in the actual box itself. I think its probably best to go for a replacement. have seen the steering box replacemnt thread in the tech archive and it doesnt look to hard Its not a daily drive so it can sit on the drive until I get hold of a new box
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My steering was a bit odd and I have found that I can turn the steering shaft about 1/8th of a turn before the drop arm moves. I'm thinking its probably time to replace the steering box or can it be adjusted up enough to take out the slack?
I currently have a 6 bolt box do all the different boxes have the same fittings ie. thread sizes for the hoses ect or do I have to replace like for like ?
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My wipers were not moving the full arc and were very floppy so yesterday I took a wiper box off to have a look. The teeth on the wheel were worn so the wheel would move a bit before they started moving the arm, but only on the bit that was being used so I refitted them both but rotated the wheels 180 degrees so the good bit was in contact with the cable, also I pushed in the metal Tab type bit on the back of the wiper box cover to keep the wheels in a little tighter(but not to tight)to stop any play. I used some fresh grease in there and they are perfect now. Didnt cost a penny and worked a treat
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heres my yellow one
As my 90 is half way through a few jobs at the moment and I have a few other things to move about im planning on renting a van for the day and loading it in the back instead of towing it. Has anyone ever had a sankey in the back of a van before and if so what van did you use?
Pickup Insurance
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
adrian flux, nfu, lancaster all cover modded landrovers. you will probably find that you have to actually call them and go through the thousand questions for a modded vehicle. most of the online quote things are pretty restrictive about mods,