Doctorvaltar

Ok, that's interesting to know. My existing callipers have two brakes lines in each side on the front. Is there any advantage over this or the proper defender single line system. I'm sure safety is covered somewhere else in the single line system.

The bulkhead is 2006, is that the later enough to have the later type parts? It has the servo and master cylinder. The servo is much thinner than the RRC one I'm currently running so wondered if it would be as effective.

When I bought my 90 many moons ago it had been fitted with RRC axles, servo and dual circuit brake callipers. Now these stop the car pretty well, but recently I have bought another much cleaner bulkhead from a TD5 which has the brake servo still attached, most of the brake lines and valve thing for rear axle. I was wondering if I should ditch the RRC dual circuit and convert to the TD5 set up? I've got new axles to go on and was going to treat myself to new front callipers, so could easily buy TD5 ones instead.

Great, I think I'll put them up for sale this week, start at 0.99p and see how I get on.

I've just had my set of 4 16x8 Mach 5's powder coated gun metal grey and they look great. I'm running 305/70 Grizzly Claws and 30mm wheel spacers, but after seeing a friend's Defender with 15x10 and 33" Coopers on I really want a set of these. I've found a couple of suppliers that can do a good deal on new wheels/tyres but I wanted to know if anyone thinks my existing set up is worth much to someone else, £800 on new wheels seems a bit excessive when what I have looks good. No idea what the secondhand value of my wheels/tyres would be but if I could get some way to cover the costs of the new wheels it wouldn't be such a extravagance for cosmetic reasons! Any ideas?

On my v8 I added a oil pressure sender to run a gauge in addition to the pressure switch that goes the oil pressure light on the warning panel. I also added a oil temperature sender to run temp gauge. So I've got quite a few senders and switches down there! I took an old pump housing apart to see how the oil galleries were set up and it just required some adapters to be made to replace some of the blanking bolts that are fitted. One of the big bolts holds in the pressure relief spring so leave that alone but from memory all of the other ones can be removed a be replaced with adapters and sender units. I can get some pictures over if you like?

My defender has a very occasional annoying habit. Sometimes I go to start it and it struggles to turn over, I mean really struggle as if the battery is flat as a pancake, however all the lights are bright if I try them. I keep turning the ignition off and on, trying to start it and eventually (after some time) it spins over as if the battery is fully charged, springs into life as if there was no problem and I get on with my journey. I've done some investigating, the battery is earthed fine, all connections seem to be ok. The starter isn't old, perhaps 12-18 months if that. Most of time it is fine but when it starts to play up I get a funny noise that sounds like a small animal growling coming from either the battery box (under passenger seat) or under the centre console when trying to crank it over. I'm running a 4.0 v8 with efi and a red top optima battery. Could the battery be on its way out and not able to supply enough power under heavy load or is it more likely dodgy wiring???

Excellent, please do! Would be very useful.

Do I have to undo the big bolts that run front to back along the chassis outriggers that my rock sliders bolt on with?

Thanks for the description. For the time being I have filed out the holes in the A pillar to give me a little more adjustment so the door close. I will have a look at all the bolts that you mentioned and get the wd40 out at the weekend.

Regardless of trouble, the V8 will always make you smile. Might be rubbish in water and cost a fortune to run but with tubular manifolds and straight through pipes you will love it, mine sounds NASCAR like, raw and unrefined yet powerful!!

Guys, Just a quickie, just changed from soft to hard top and one piece doors. New doors don't fit very well, hard top shows up the misaligned doors. I can see the problem, bulkhead leans back very slightly, gap between bulkhead and tub is bigger at bottom. Can the bulkhead be adjusted ( tilted toward the front) in situu with wings and all the stuff bolted on? If so, where do I start??

I'm in Amersham in Bucks. All the other warning lights on the panel appear to be working fine, and as you say the warning light is just one wire coming off the speedo going through the multiplug and going into the back of the warbing light panel. Will check the connectors over the weekend, if it's not that I'm sure it must be the speedo, but if that's the case them at least one person must have experienced the same problem.

Fuel gauge reads perfectly, goes down pretty quick!!

I have followed Retroanaconda's helpful guide to installing TD5 gauges and warning lights in my 90 V8. The temperature gauge wiring change explained in the guide works perfectly with the V8 if you use the green sender. Mines slightly different to the norm as it's got RRC V8 engine, fuel injection and transmission. I'm running the Borg Warner viscous transfer box so was at a bit of a quandary as to which speed transducer to fit. I intially tried a YBE100530 and found the speedo ran exactly double what I was actaully doing, I figured I had the wrong transducer and needed an RRC unit but with a bit of research, I bit the bullet and bought another YBE100530 but a genuine green one from Land Rover. This time my speedo is running exactly the same as the Sat Nav (I prevously fitted a blue drive gear to go with my big wheels). I have heard others say stay away from the pattern version transducer, my experience tells me to agree with them. My next issue is and this is where i would like some advice, my low fuel warning light (which comes off the speedo now) glows slightly when I have fuel, but as the needle approaches the red, the light goes off. Exactly the opposite of what you would expect from a low level warning light. Is this an issue that other owners have had with the TD5 dash and is perhaps a problem with the speedo or the warning light panel I bought second hand, or have I messed up this part of the wiring and got something round the wrong way? Thanks