CURLY
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Posts posted by CURLY
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Thanks I understand it all now
are you sure?
just to recap..
you connect the 2 big brown wires to the blah blah terminal, and the small red one to the hoojamaflip jobbie.. but guess what, you dont need to connect anything to the W badongde because thats for the rev counter..
LOL
CURLY
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i just did exactly the same to my old 2.5 td.
changed the old spade type alternator for one with bolts on.
if you look at the back of the old spade alternator, where both the big brown wires plug into, they are infact joined together anyway, so like Western said in a previous post, wire both big brown wires into the B+ terminal on your disco alternator, (the biggest bolt connector, it will be marked with a B+) and the small red wire, that goes onto the smallest of the 3 bolt terminals which should be marked with D+ or just D.
dont worry about the W terminal, thats just if you have a rev counter.
HTH
CURLY
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As above. Looking for a pair. Very much like the look/quality of the southdown 4x4 items. Any others to be considered?
for a 90, or a 110?
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that could be it , got a old one on my shelf here, in a black twist fuse holder with a glass fuse type insert which has a thick wriggly wire inside it & marked on the end caps with 2A
willing to post this one I have if you want it
thanks western, email sent
CURLY
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Ok I have now sorted the problem. I found the resistor in the ignition light wiring (which looks like a special fuse in a fuse holder) and sure enough with that removed it turns off ok. I have now put a diode in the ignition light feed from the alternator as it has in my Haynes wiring diagram for the 1991-on defenders and all is now fine. I can only assume there is a back feed from the ignition light which was giving the 2v to the solenoid. Any comments?
does anyone have a photo of the resistor?
I think mine might be faulty, but I can't even find it! All I can find is one of those push and twist inline fuse holders with a 30 amp glass fuse in it! I'm wandering if the guy befor me has changed the resistor for a fuse? Maybe that's why my alternator is only charging at 13.8 volts too? Any ideas?
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charge light resistor is within the main dash area wiring loom, bit of a job to pull it all out to find the resistor.
charge light brown/yellow wire should have 12v +ve with the ignition switched on so the light is illuminated
do you know what the resistor looks like? Is it a 25-30mm long black thing with a triangle on it with a male spade one end, and a female the other?
I have got 2 of those behind the dash clocks, can't remember what wires they are on though, I'll have a look if that's what it is.
The sign on it looks a bit like this if I remember correctly. ->- all in a circle.
It's started to charge again now, but only at 13.8v. But my battery which is a pc1700 super duper one has a cyclic charge that only works between 14.2 and 14.5 volts and it has a slow charge from 13 to 13.8 volts, so it's not going to charge properly is it?
Oh man, what do I do?
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Ok, done that, but it's still not charging! I can't beleive that all 3 alternators would be buggered surely?
Is the brown/yellow wire supposed to be +12v with the ignition on, or -12v?
Cheers,
CURLY
where is the charge light resistor, and what does it look like, how can I tell if it's working?
CURLY
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connect the 2 large brown wires onto one of the B+ [doesn't matter which one of the 2] the thin brown/yellow is the ignition/charge light needs to connect to the WL or IND terminal & W is for rev counter as you've stated.
Ok, done that, but it's still not charging! I can't beleive that all 3 alternators would be buggered surely?
Is the brown/yellow wire supposed to be +12v with the ignition on, or -12v?
Cheers,
CURLY
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hi there,
i have a 2.5 td 110 with dodgy wiring all over the place.
my alternator isn't charging at all now, and even after changing it twice, it still doesn't charge. even though it was working fine 10 minutes before on the car i took it off..
it has 3 wires going to a triple spade connector plug, 2 big brown ones that go to B+ and a thin brown/yellow one that goes to the other smaller spade connector. but the new alternator has 3 bolts to plug the wires onto. B+ (2 x fat brown wires) W (nothing, cos its for the rev counter) and B+ (ignition warning lamp? or is it the alternator ignitor?)
i read somewhere on here that if i unplug the brown/yellow wire from the back of the alternator it should read +12v with the ignition on. is this true? because if it is, then mine is wrong, because it is an earth with the ignition on??
the brown/yellow wire at the back of the ignition warning light is +12v too?
and that brown/yellow wire to the light is connected to the ignition plug.
what should it be?
HELP!!!!!
CURLY
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nice one, thanks guys!
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i'm going on mixed messages from the girl thats getting married, but i think the hog roaster is just the electric motor that spins the pig on the spike to make the lurvely crispy pig skin all crackly and crispy.. droool.. mmmm but not 100% sure. i'll find out more!
cheers,
CURLY
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hi there, i know its a bit off topic, but a friend of mine is getting married outside, and needs a generator to power the following:
disco,
2000 watts of lighting
an electric hog roaster,
a kettle
and a PA system
what sort of size generator would comfortably power this?
cheers,
CURLY
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what are the ally shaped wire covers in the back of a defender called that cover the rear light wires etc?
i messed up a hole for a 12v socket i was going to put into the offside one, and wanted to buy a new pair, but dont know what they are called!!
any ideas?
CURLY
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3) Note that earlier versions of the LT77 may not be strong enough for the 200TDI. I would check the suffix first. If you have a "G" box, it is OK. anything lower is iffy.
how can you find this out?
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One 100W spot light will pull about 9 amps, and most automotive switches tend to be rated at 10 or 15 amps. If you try to switch a big load with a little switch too often you can end up welding the switch closed
oooo nice!
so the wires from the fuse box in the pics above will go to the relay 'feed', and a seperate powered switch wire to the relay 'switch' then yes?
just planning what to do before i spend a fortune on un needed wiring..
sorry to hijack the thread by the way..
CURLY
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I can vouch the the '12 way fuse block' that VWP sell, very good quality. Ref 5026B on their site. Expensive though, and may be a bit overkill for your application. Here it is in my truck:
For what it's worth, when I put a Mudstuff centre console in, I intend to run a dedicated feed to power all my switches. For this I will take a fused spur off my battery to a bus-bar like this:
That will give me a dedicated supply for the switches, and much easier than running a seperate fused supply for each switch, which there is no point doing. All it will be powering is the resultant relays, so the current draw will be minimal.
would you need to use relays with this junction box? for spot lights, big air horn, fag lighters etc?
CURLY
P.S i use a juction box like:
PJ1 on the VWP website. just 2 bolts joined together by a bar in a box. one fat wire in, and loads of smaller ones out using hoop crimp connectors.
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ha! i love the rusty chain recovery tied round the rear 'hoop'
and its got a tow bar on it!! NOOOOOOOOOOO!!!
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i drove about 4 miles just now on a charged battery that started to die a bit after cranking, the battery meter went above the half way point, so about 13.5v i guess, parked up, went in a shop to buy some sweeties~! came out and it started ok, but a bit slow to crank, drove back and stopped, and tried to start it again but the battery was really slow to crank it over?? that was a brand new battery too. bit small for the purpose, but as a tester to see if the big battery i have is bummed or not..
i've put my old big battery back in it now after giving it a top up on the charger, so hopefully it will be ok. but if its not, and i do need to get a new alternator, does anyone know if i can get a bigger one for it?
its a 1989 110 2.5td.
shame they dont do a 14v battery, cos when i used the starter jump pack thing it turned over really fast and started after a few cranks!
CURLY
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output at the alternator is 13.9v and at the battery now its 13.8v.
think the battery was a tad flat, so hopefully now its been on charge for a while, it should be better.
i thought they should be at 14.5v when the engine is running though..
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i dont think my alternator is charging correctly.
i just put a meter on the battery with the engine running and it only read 13.4v instead of 14.5v.
i assumed it was because the engine was on tick over, but even revving it right up it still wouldn't go any higher than 13.5v.
is there any way of testing if its my battery at fault, or if its the alternator?
and if it is the alternator, is there any way to fix it?
cheers,
CURLY
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LOL!
if i take the oil filler off with it running, it lets some whitey smoke out but no blue smoke. but only when warm. it used quite alot of oil, but the trip to work is only a few miles, (i know i should walk..) and it only just starts to run clean, IE no blue smoke by then.
i bought it with the intention of fitting a 200 tdi into it, but money is to tight for that at the moment!
checked the water by the way, and its clean and fresh, so dont think the head gasket has gone.
CURLY
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That's normally the symptoms associated with worn valve stem seals. Do you get a puff of blue smoke on start up too? Although it could be masked as I think most TD's smoke when the engine is cold anyway.
Mark.
a puff??? he he i get a smoke screen, but like you say, its masked by the black and white smoke.
i thought it might be the valve stem seals..
spose its a head off job to change them too isn't it?
could it be the piston rings?
CURLY
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i have a 2.5td 110 and i get quite a bit of blue smoke from the exhaust when i take my foot off the throttle when i'm giving it some wellie. either hot or cold. but as far as i can see, it runs pretty clear if i keep the throttle down..
EG: when i'm driving down a dual carriageway in say 3rd at quite high revs, and i lift off the accelerator..
just wondered what it could be?
any ideas?
CURLY
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so when i turn just the side lights on, the headlights should come on really dim then? cos they dont!
maybe the guy before me binned it if there was one, cos i just took the dash off and looked behind, and all i could see was a yellow box voltage regulator thing i think is for the rear heated screen. was going to take that out anyway cos i dont have a heated rear screen anymore..
Jackable Sills / Tree Sliders
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
i'm making a set for my 110..
what a pain in the ars!
devon 4x4 sell a few different types though.
CURLY