CURLY
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Posts posted by CURLY
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The kit comes complete with stud, nut, hex bolt, gasket, sticky gasket, idler, tensioner, sprocket, and belt. The seals are a seperate item, but only a couple of quid for the crank front and timing cover seals.
Les.
hi les,
where is the best place to buy a bearmach kit?
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bearmach kit? where do i get that from? does it come with all the seals, pulleys and stud etc?
cheers,
CURLY
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gonna do the timing belt over the weekend, but didn't know which one I should buy??
are dayco a good make of belts?
found a few on flea-bay, (see flea-bay numbers)
350104716702
220307733169
320115100917
280233690122
i need idler pulleys and tensioners etc, just wanted to make sure they were all in the kit.
dont suppose anyone has a list of the different parts i need do they? i'll do the oil seals while its all off too..
its for a 1995 300tdi edc with egr if it makes any difference..
Ta!
CURLY
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update:::
changed the abs vacuum pump on saturday and apart from putting the fuel pipes back on the wrong way round, it was an easy job and cured the tica tica noise too!
plus my brakes feel quite a bit better now too.. which is nice..
thanks for all your help (and PI55 takes) much appreciated!
regards,
CURLY
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Compressor for the ABS pump?
he he thats what i was told it was called, until i looked into it, i was none the wiser! thinking about it now though is pretty funny!
just been reading up about how to change the 'compressor' and it seems like quite an easy job.
just wish the clicking was the 'fuel sucky uppy from the tank fork lift pumpatron' cos they are cheaper..
cheers,
CURLY
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just been out to have a quick look, all the injectors are tight and not chuffing or clicking, so i'll cross them off the list for now..
i put a bit of metal tube on the vacuum pump and pressed my ear to the end of it, and it is making a real noise inside and sounds like it could be where the tica tica noise is coming from.
has anyone ever removed and fixed one of these pumps? or am i going to be the worlds first again? lol!
hopefully it will be nice and easy.. the rave cd seems to make out that it is. just need to find out now if they are servicable or not..
any ideas?
cheers!
CURLY
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injector sealing washers can make that sound too
rob
do you know how tight the injector holding in bolts should be tightened too?
regards,
Sam
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got a tic tic tica tic noise coming from the engine that speeds up with revs, i have a new rocker shaft and rockers all adjusted to what the rave cd specifies, so i dont think its that, ive been told that its not the rear crank bearing because i have loads of oil pressure..
the guy said it could be the lift pump, or the compressor for the abs pump?
any other suggestions before i start to strip it all down this evening?
regards,
CURLY
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LOL just as i thought!
thanks for your reply anyway!
CURLY
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bit of a weird one..
I have a disco 1 obviously, and we put the baby's carry cot in the back seat and use the rear seat belts to strap it in,
but, the floor mounted part of the belt with the push to release bit on it can slide across between the base and the rear part of the seat where it folds down. so when i strap the carry cot in and pull it tight, the belt slides along the seat join until the belt hits the bobble and it cant go any further, and it becomes slack.
i was just wondering if there was a particular way to put the seat belt clip through the seat base to stop it doing that??
told you it was a weird one!!
P.S how do i disable the passenger airbag too?
regards,
CURLY
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Hi there - are you sure it's an EDC, only I didn't think they came out till 1995 onwards ?
If it's an EDC then from memory the pot has a built in idle switch and looks like a custom design, so not sure how easy it would be to replace with an off the shelf item. It could be possible to repair if your handy with tools, I expect you would need to drill out rivets etc, but nothing to loose.
Worth having a poke around under the dash and see if there is a mechanical issue with the pedal lever/cam thing that does the actuation on the pot as well.
Cheers
hi there, yes it is definately an EDC because i have had a right job getting parts for it because when i say its 1994, they all say, 'nope, its not an EDC then, must be this bit you want instead'..
its a really weird version of the EDC though, it has sensors all over the place, and instrumented injectors, a different ECU to every other disco in the world and various other bizarre components!
checked under the dash, but everything is turning and pivoting as it should, so i'm thinking its got to be the potentiometer..
daaaaaam..
CURLY
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doesn't anyone else know about these potentiometer things?
its getting worse when its cold!
are they servicable? or is it a chuck away jobbie?
CURLY
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is it failing?
i have a 300 tdi edc jap import auto 1994 M reg..
sometimes, when i press the throttle, it does nothing, so i lift off and go again, and its fine..
is this a sign of the throttle potentiometer failing, or could it be something else?
if it is the potentiometer where is the plug for it? i think i traced it to in the engine bay just behind the brake servo.. is that it?
cheers in advance AGAIN!
Sam
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thanks mate,
thats what i thought, but wasn't to sure..
think i'll get one and try my wiring skills again..
CURLY
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hi there, i have a 300tdi M reg auto disco jap import. and my ignition barrel is on its way out i think, the key spins round in it without engaging with anything inside. if i push in really hard, it does work though.
i have looked on fleabay but all the ones i have found are not suitable for jap imports with auto box's and shift lock.
does anyone know the part number i need to look for?
or is there an easy fix that i can do to make it work?
cheers!
CURLY
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the wire was broken to the boost sensor! re-joined it up, no more engine light and loads of power!!
yippee!!
thanks for all your help with the plug and what not!
regards,
CURLY
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had it plugged in at Elliot Engineering.. what a brilliant bloke! found out that it was the boost pressure sensor. so thats next on my to do list!
hopefully its just gunked up with something and i can just un gunk it..
CURLY
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OK, the garage which has the snap-on solus diagnostic equipment couldn't read the faults from it, so i will have to find somewhere close with the landrover testbook.
if no one can talk to the ecu, is there a manual way of finding the fault? test each sensor with a volt meter or something like that? because i dont mind doing that..
regards,
Sam
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right, i went to the scrap yard, chopped off an obd plug and spliced it onto my wires. got it booked in to the garage tomorrow to hopefully have the fault codes read..
fingers crossed!
will let you know if it works, so if the only other person in the entire world with the same 300 tdi version that i have can have their fault codes read when theirs packs up..
LOL!!
CURLY
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he he filling me with confidence there then!
dont suppose you know if snap-on do an adaptor for their solus reader do they?
and if i was calling around asking garages if they have the right plug, what plug do i say it is? a DTC0014A? or is it like a 5 pin flobalob plug or something like that?
also, i have been told that i cant just cut and splice an obd socket onto it, because it wont work.. evidently its due to the different signals or something, not just the plug holes being different..
does that sound right, or like a load of old cods wallop?
ta again!
SAM
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I knew the part #, see post #21. But it's good you confirmed it.
It works without the MAF, just not as well. The ecu uses a default value when it's something (way) wrong with the MAF, so no surprise here.
That's the plug to the ECM ecu in the pics you posted. The wire colors are ok, except what you wrote as "white" it's actually "white with pink stripe" (maybe the pink's faded).
To attach these wires to a OBD plug you need to make the following connections:
- black > to pins 4 and 5
- white with light green s. > to pin 7
- white with pink s. > to pin 15
- brown with orange s. > to pin 16
I'm not sure if you can clear the fault code by removing the main battery for a while but you can try, it can't hurt. There's no other way I know of.
I hope I answered all your Qs.
Ally V8, I initially referring to VINs that have an F as engine code and correspond in real life to EDC engines, look back at my post #19. The ones with a "7" are recognized as EDCs no problem as per the config file ...:/LRE_Data/VIN/eng.vin
Thanks just the same.
But this gave me an idea. Try replacing the F with a 7 in CURLY's VIN and see what the T1 calls for, maybe it will ask for the other adapter.
WOW!!! you really know your stuff!
all i need to know now is where to buy an obd plug! unless they do an adaptor..
if not i'll solder it on and take it back to the garage.
its not going to blow up their diagnostic equipment is it? cos that would really suck..
thankyou all loads, you have all been really helpful!!
regards,
Sam
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incase it helps,
my ecu number is ERR4844 with BOSCH 0 281 001 204 written on it
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right, i just took the air flow meter off and gave it a clean, and just to see if it worked, i tried to start the engine with the airflow meter un plugged, and guess what, it started!!??
it revved and ran just like before, so i'm wondering now if its that thats faulty?
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there are 4 wires going to it by the way..
black
brown with an orange stripe
white
white with a green stripe
Cleaning inside a intercooler ??
in Discovery Forum
Posted
i washed mine out with petrol, then soapy water. shook it to get as much as poss out, then piped it back up, but left the top hose off before the inlet manifold and revved the engine up a bit.. turbo kicks in and hey presto! engine bay and everything covered in water and bubbles!!
keep it revving for a while until there isnt anything else coming out of the intercooler..