Dutchgit
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Posts posted by Dutchgit
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Diagram here : Clicky linky. <<
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Check the rubber engine mounts. The (probably) left one is possibly knackered.
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I hear what you're saying Ard and agree 100% mate.....but when I travel all that way to a Land Rover show I want to actually see some traders, vehicles etc and take in the whole LR show experiance.
If the pathetic traders attendance figures for Newark are anything to go by then I might as well go to my local super market for better Land Rover viewing.
I know that most of our particular group are commited to Newark now but I personally have no alleigence to any of the mags or the people who run them. All I want is a decent holiday with a bit of LR content thrown in.
What do you mean Streaky mate ? I have to drive a lot further than you !
I agree that Land Rover stuff is nice to at least look at but maybe it's time to vote with our feet and hope for a better event next year.
The list of traders may not be long yet but hopefully there will be more of them going to Newark.
I haven't got any idea about the prices they have to pay for a stand but if LRM is smart they make them worth the traders while.
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It's Newark for us. As most if not all of our friends are going there. We'll probably only pick up some service items anyway to save on postage.
I've been to Billing 13 times and haven't seen any improvement over the times I've been there.
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I have one of them, but paid about £20 less than that.
Paul
You could check the X-Eng website and make your own (simple ) version if you only have to do a few rivnuts
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Check the fuel and coolant temperature sensors.
Have a look here: V8 website
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Whilst easy might be alright, connecting it to the manifold will give you real pressure at the manifold.
This will tell you if there is something amiss like a leak in the intercooler or one of the pipes.
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Mate of mine has some Ikea LED lights in his Discovery. Dirt cheap and works alright.
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Do a Google for Hella LED worklight. Fairly expensive but looks worth it.
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Any reduction in unsprung weight will improve the roadholding of a vehicle. (or something to that extent)
If this is done properly it will be a better vehicle.
Cutting notches in your seatbelts reduces the sprung weight and therefore do not make a vehicle safer.
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Cheers for that Daan. It's on the "to do" list.
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Poor man's bling:
The first time I saw the QT ones, I ran. In my humble opinion, you cant do it in the way it is done. Its too flimsy and the bottom bead is split up in pieces which are welded in places. The picture shows that it broke, yes, exactly on the weld. You can cause a lot of havoc if the other arm breaks also, which is now increasingly likely, by a factor of 2 almost.
I made my lightweight arms from oldspec rangy arms. These are 0.5 KG lighter to begin with, and after smoking a load of holes you take out another 1 kg, making the weightsaving 1.5kg per arm. I also polished the outside of the arms with a flapwheel to reduce the tendency to crack.
Then had it zinc plated for added bling
I personally dont bother with castor correction, although the lift is only 1-1.5 inch on my car.
Daan
That looks very nice but how are the arms coping with holes drilled all over them ?
To my untrained eye the holes apear to be in a "non stressed" area of the arms but is this really so ?
I had standard ones on my Range Rover and after lifting it fitted QT ones but the vibrations from the propshaft weren't very nice.
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Terra Firma seems to be getting some good reviews.
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Hey i lost my keys and i don't have extras and i got the car after the driving column has been replaced so it would cost me like 650 to get it running again, or i could just make it push button, So i'm going push button, but i need an electrical diagram for the ignition, so i know where to splice in my buttons and toggle switches, if anyone has a work manual, and is willing to share that page it would be great. It's a 98 disco.
and I don't think there's more than one steering lock on it.
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Screw some self tappers in from the bottom up ?
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Streaky, when I was at Al Tayer two years ago Fadi had a 110 in there for a Sheikh as well that was converted into a hunting vehicle. There was a TD5 in there with every add on for more power you could have but it still wasn't to his liking. he bought a new Disco ( I think ,or it was a RR) with a V8 in it and had the V8 put in the defender.
Any (e-mailable) pictures of the state your old 130 is currently in ?
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And use new bolts ?
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EDIS gone wrong
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I'm so gutted I've sold my RR
It was a 2 door with a JE 4.2 on carbs, Janspeed stainless sports system and a manual gearbox.I bought a Defender 200tdi instead
I just couldn't get it registered here because of the many mods.
I could listen to that V8 music all day every day no matter how loud or how far I had to go. The sound/noise of the tdi gets tiring after 1/2 hr. on the motorway...
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it's not too much to ask that safety critical parts be built and tested to the highest standard.
Seems anyone with a MiG and a gallon of "extreme" paint can knock this stuff up
Hence the stringent German TUV tests. Having standards and accompaning paperwork isn't all bad you know !
Although it can be a right PITA sometimes.
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New Product !
We are proud to introduce our latest product ! The Pile-Xpall !
Product features:
-Can be used by the whole family
-Immediate results
-Have fun whilst using it
-Your "friends" can have fun while you use it too !
-Can be used behind any vehicle as long as the engine is powerfull enough
-Comes complete with 5 larger than life band aids thrown in for free !
-Not available in orange (yet)
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Maybe the ignition contacts are buggered.
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Find some cheapo Range Rover or Disco axles and fit them. You'll have disc brakes at the rear as bonus and it shouldn't cost more than about £100
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What if this supplier has gone bankrupt...
It was a 2 door with a JE 4.2 on carbs, Janspeed stainless sports system and a manual gearbox.
NAS spec Lights
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
You can (have someone) stick a block of wood behind the body that you can use for centering the drill of the holesaw.