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Dutchgit

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Posts posted by Dutchgit

  1. Here in Germany it's okay to do your own modifications but you'll need papers with the parts you're using saying that they are TUV approved. The vehicle will have to be inspected to see if they are fitted properly.

    You can get away with fitting stuff and not tell 'em but it will fail on it's next inspection. Besides the fact that it makes your insurance void.

    It can be a headache at times but you won't have trailing arms on your motor that can snap off ... :unsure::rolleyes:

  2. I dont know of any replacement aftermarket filter boxes that will simply go in place. You could keep your eye out for a 3.5 carb 90/110 airbox which has a tee piece that sits in pretty much the same place as the original airbox but uses a more conventional cylindrical element filter housing remote mounted with a section of hose. etc.

    Other solution (cheapest!) is just make your own, few lengths of air hose and any old traditional air box :D:D

    I've used such a t-piece and a RR EFI filterbox. The T-piece is in front of the carbs as I couldn't get away with it behind it due to lack of height for the hoses but I'm sure you've got more space on a Defender. I connected it up using two hoses from an Escort and a small piece from a Saab.

    It worked fine and this way I had it in the right spot for adding a snorkel.

    enginebay2.jpg

    enginebay1.jpg

  3. Hi everyone,

    with a friend, we are rebuilding a V8 3.9 EFI autobox, 8.13 CR, from a 1998 discovery VIN : WAxxxxxx.

    The engine has number 38D38976C.

    I have found that : 38D means => factory 3.9 - "R.R DISC 3.9 EFI Auto 8.13:1 CR" which corresponds to the truth.

    Now, I found on the V8 overhaul manual that engines without suffix B had the oil pump driven from the dizzy, and engines WITH suffix B had the oil pump crank driven.

    Mine has indeed the oil pump crank driven, and is is also a serpentine belt.

    Our question is : the engine is suffix C... what evolutions/differences are there from suffix B then ???

    Our worry is about the overhaul procedures... indeed, between without and with suffix B, there are some differences on torquing methods etc... in some areas like heads, main bearings, etc...

    Can we apply to this engine the same procedures as a "WITH suffix B" engine

    Anyone with knowledge of these engines could tell me more please ?

    Thank you all.

    Erik.

    If the difference in torque methods is "apply x amount of torque and then turn 90 degrees or something" rather than torque up the bolts to 70N/M I'd suggest you get some old style bolts and use the old style torque methods as they are re-usable were as the later style ones are not. (I'm talking headbolts here)

    The rest is pretty much the same procedure.

  4. Started to fit my 'new' fleabay wheels and find that they are too thick making the studs too short.

    I've seen a thread on here I think but can't remember what was said nor can I find it on a search.

    I think I know what the answer is so how easy is it to remove the studs?? :rolleyes:

    Should be able to see what I mean in this pic

    post-10430-1226964532_thumb.jpg

    You're probably alright using them as is now.

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