Baldy Mark

Hi GW8IZR when you say pull the wires of at the sender do you mean the green/black wire at the fuel tank? & the green/blue wire at the temp sensor? I disconected the wires at the main multi plug conection but i held both plugs to minimise the strain on the conections apart from that not nicked any wires that i know off as the 2 wires on each gauge are male & female plug conections & the black wire is held on with a hand nut! So nothing to nick with any screws when building the gauge panel back up & as i said earlier i had noticed that gauges where reading high before i had fitted the instrument cluster to the dash

Don't think i'll be allowed back out tonight!!! If you catch my drift!! I'll have a look tomorrow after work & see what sort of reading i get Cheers

Cheers GW8IZR, I was having another look earlier tonight! I took my test light to the wires on the gauge to see if i could find what wire was the live when the ignition was switched on? It seems to be The same one as the temp gauge as both these wires are joined together & it was lighting up the test light with the ignition on! There was no feed at the other 2 wires green/black & green/blue So i know its the light green wire that the live

Hi GW8IZR Yes all the gauges worked fine before i stripped it when i disconect the green & black wire behind the fuel gauge the gauge reads empty same with the temp gauge disconect the green & blue wire the gauge falls to cold not sure what you mean sender? the wire at the tank? Yes i do have a DVM but not 100% sure on how to work it

Hi Snagger both the guages have the earth leads attached to the back of them! are you suggesting running a separate earth instead of the ones in the wiring loom?

Hi Western / Vulcan checked the gauge clamps & opened them up so that they are not touching the gauge body! but i'm still getting the same problem gauge reading shoots up! took the stainless panel off & then tried it the gauges are still shooting up? Do you know where the earth is for the instrument cluster gauges

Cheers Recovery Man, I think i did see the clamps touching the gauge body but i've stripped it & swaped the wires round that many times i'm not sure! I'll have to wait & check in the morning! I'm thinking earth! and had a look about the connections on the harness incase i had disturbed any other wires when i was removing the cluster Finges crossed that's all it is

Hi All Tried to fit my stainless instrument gauge panel today, i removed all the gauges speedo,fuel & temp & removed the wiring loom at the connector but when checking that all the gauges & bulbs were working before fitting the screws, the fuel & temp gauges are reading full & hot, i have tried swapping the wires round as i thought maybe i had got the wires crossed but the gauges still reading high Can anybody shed any light on the cause & how to solve it

Cheers mate!! That's the way i fitted it!! but do you know that way!! not sure? All parts fitted, diff refilled looking good! Just need to sort my steering out? Fitted new ball joint & steering damper.

Hi folks Looking for some help! I have stripped down the front passengers side wheel as the hub oil seal was leaking! I also noticed that the stub axle & swivel ball had to be replaced!! My new parts have arrived from paddocks when rebuilding i fitted the swivel ball seal with the spring side facing me! But i'm not sure which way the stub axle seal goes? Can anybody help?

110 temp gauge problem 2ootdi disco conversion Hi All As i said earlier i had fitted the PRC2505 and the adaptor ERC8973 and the gauge was worse touching the H on the gauge Since then i have been told to check my earth strap (engine to chassi) i have fitted a new earth strap from the engine to the bulkhead and the gauge now sits just at the end of the white band (still a bit high for my liking) When i was going to fit the sender PRC6663 i noticed that it looked more like the one i removed from the disco PRC8001 when the engine was getting fitted at first (fine thread's) but according to Ralph i will have to use the PRC8973 adaptor to get it to fit Phoned the supplier to query this and was told that is the right sender that had been supplied but the sender PRC2505 has a coarse thread that screws into the adaptor PRC8973 no problem this seems to be getting even more confusing should the sender PRC6663 have a coarse thread or a fine thread ? should it look the same as the sender PRC2505 ? or has britpart started making 200tdi conversion senders ?

Sorry not been in touch folk thanks for all your advice and help much appreciated I relise that this is a common problem and lot of folk seem to have done this conversion i took Ralph's advice and purchased the temp sender PRC2505 / PRC6663 and adaptor ERC8973 parts arrived today so i fitted the PRC2505 sender and the gauge seem worse lots of nice hot air when the heater is on but the gauge fires up to the H on the temp gauge so the next chance i get i will try the PRC6663 and see what readings i get fingers crossed I'll be in touch cheers

Cheers for the reply Ralph i have read your message on LR4X4 I have also read that these are the sender units on other peoples posts but like you say these sender units are for diesel engines 2.5n/a & 2.5td but my landy used to be a petrol that was converted to a 2.5n/a before i fitted the 200tdi On another post these sender units work with the gauge PRC7311 which is a standard gauge on all 110 But my gauge is a PRC3105 So will these sender units and my gauge give me a true reading ?

110 temp gauge problem disco 2ootdi conversion Hi All First Time Post I have a 1988/89 110 that started life of as a 2.5 Petrol. When I bought it, it had already been converted from petrol to a 2.5n/a Diesel engine. I have just fitted a disco 200tdi to it and I keep getting really high temp gauge readings (almost touching red). I know that the car is not overheating as the gauge hits red after 5 miles. I have read a few posts on this matter in this forum and some others. I have also seen a lot of part numbers to solve this problem and I have read a lot of different views. Some say just use temp sender PRC2505 / PRC6663 / PRC8593 others quote temp gauge part number PRC7311 and others say swap the gauge and sender for an aftermarket set. As I want to use the original gauge what water temp sender do I use? I have removed the insrument cluster and sticker on the temp gauge quotes PRC3105 but when searching this part number all the sites say superseeded by part number AMR2631! Now can anybody tell me what water temp sender matches my gauge PRC3105?