fearofweapons
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Posts posted by fearofweapons
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For many years, since I replaced my bulk head, my airflow has been asthmatic as an elderley ant!
At the start of lock down I stripped the dash off and added a couple of small PC fans just below the demister ducts to turbo boost flow upwards. See the photos - the white padding is some hydrophobic insulation and sound absorbing material.
I also added some seals to the lower vent flaps (bits of neoprene but might rip them off and replace with sponge draft excluder instead). I cut the seal for the passenger lower outlet to restrict air flow so that more is directed to the driver's side.
I put it all back together and the difference is significant. I now get a good strong blow to the demisters, on both sides.
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Hello!
So the re-painting my wife's SIII with a 90 bulkhead continues. This weekend we stripped off all the capping's and windscreen frame to blasts and send for re galvanising. The door seals are shot - a mix of chopped up defender ones and SIII on the windscreen and roof.
Replacement SIII seals are eye wateringly expensive. Many have said about using Defender seals - some say to grind off the lip others say not needed. My concern (and I am not near the windscreen frame for the rest of this week to check) is how the defender seal would fit to the windscreen frame? The series one rivets on. This thread -
- shows the defender seal on the windscreen but no talk about how it fits (or doesn't). Oscar03 has not visited the forum for quite some time otherwise I would ping him.
Can anyone tell me how the defender seal fits to the windscreen frame please? I really do not want to be grinding down the windscreen frame.
Many thanks,Richard
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Many thanks for the replies guys and the tip on heated glass.
Thanks
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After a bit of advice. Doing up the wife's SIII and the windscreen frame has been painted. Removing the paint has damaged the galv. Having had a quick look around it would seem you can no longer buy new wind screen frames. Or can someone prove me wrong please?
So as a fall back looking to get it blasted and galvanised. Can anyone recommend a blasters and galvanisers in the Leeds / Bradford / West Yorkshire area please?
regards,
Richard.
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Thanks for the replies and confirmation this is a common / normal thing.
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Thanks for pointing out the seat rails are not the same length.
That is not the cause. They became mismatched while trying to resolve the issue.
As can be seen in the photo Mutley has ringed the inner front corner is higher than the outer front corner - that is the issue I'm trying to fix. It's very frustrating.
If I fold the seats flat forward the rails sit flat and square.
Once I put the seat into the upright position they do not - so something to do with the ratchet mechanism. Which seemed to 'slip' when I was recovering the seats.
I've checked as best I can, using set squares / flat bar, and nothing appears to be bent.
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Thanks - tried that, and I'm no lite weight!, but no joy.
🤔
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Yeah you would have thought so.... but apparently not. 😥
Here are some photos...
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Hello,
some time ago we recovered the front seats in out 1989 110. At some point during that process the seat base got out of true. The side with the reclining handle on 'slipped'. This means that when the seat is bolted to the seat base in the car the back is twisted; the left-hand side of the back is pulled forward.
If I take the seat out of the car and place it on a flat surface the left-hand seat rail is raised at the front if the right hand rail is bolted flat.
(Once my phone has some charge, I can take a photo and show you.)
Now I have some spare time on my hands I am trying to get the seat back into alignment and failing. Basically, I need to get the reclining teeth to engage at a different point (I think) but cannot for the life of me work out how. Any help, as always, gratefully received.
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All,
many thanks for replies and pointers. This is, obviously, one of those times when doing it by the book is wrong 😞
I'll go take a look in the SII forum as well. In the mean time I have a question...If I choose the 'not 90 degree setting' is there any advantage to the arm leading or trailing the chassis? i.e. create an acute or obtuse angle with the drop arm on the bottom of the steering relay? Or is the 90 degree setting the correct one and the manual is just plain wrong?
The rest of the setup instructions above I had pretty much followed including the checking for fouling of the pedal box for a right turn - I don't 🙂
Once again many thanks.
Rich
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... well more like left!
The steering relay was recently replaced but the steering had not been setup properly as per the work shop manual. That is when wheels are straight ahead the arm to the top of the relay should be at 81 degrees.
The thing now is that I can not get full left lock. The arm to the top of the relay hits the panel, not the stops but the panel, that the radiator grill is attached to.
This is a SIII SWB petrol.
Any suggestions please?
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So we are stripping my wifes SIII and because of the patchwork of badly applied paint by POs have ended up taking it back to bare Aluminium ( and filler!) for most of it.
The other day I saw a post on Facebook talking about undercoats. In the thread a number of people said that an Epoxy primer was better than an Etch one - adheres better to the aluminium and provides a better base for the top coat. In our case the top coat will be Paintmans synthetic coach enamel which we have already bought.I am quite good at stripping, I'm told! 😉, but know next to nothing about applying paint. What are others opinions, Epoxy or Etch and why?
many thanks,
Richard
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Many thanks for the offer Gazzer - we are Leeds based and looking and replacing the exhaust with a stainless steel one. Sounds like we will need a custom job making up.
Any one know of a good SS exhaust manufacture near Leeds / Bradford please?
Rich
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Thanks Gazzer - looking at the pictures you posted I am going for my wife's engine having the 2.5 exhaust manifold on. ( Looks more like part 15 and it has part 17 in your diagram ). I'll start my supplier discussions based on that assumption and see how far I get...
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so now back home, it's not raining and I have managed to get a couple of photos. I'm hoping these provide a better view?
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All,
many thanks for the replies. I ran out of time and daylight yesterday to take more pictures and am away now 'till Friday. I'll try to get more photos on Friday - so long as its dryish, don't really fancy lying in running water to take the photo! 😉
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Sorry pictures would make sense! Just tried to take some and it's quite hard to get a good one. I have tried my best but until I can get time to pull the air hose and maybe some of the other bits off these are the best I can do. I hope they help...
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Hello,
my wife's SIII has a early 90 2.5 petrol in it. It needs a new exhaust. Will an SIII 2 1/4 exhaust fit? If so any guesses on which one? There seem to be many options depending on the year of manufacture and I am not sure if that is because the chassis changed or something else.
many thanks for any help.
regards,
Rich T
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Hello!
So my wife's SIII SWB has a 90 2.5 petrol in. We discovered the other day that the #1 plug had no nipple for the lead to attach to - no wonder it was running a little rough and less power. Not knowing the age of the plugs we decided to replace them all. The photos below are of the ones removed. To my untrained / uneducated eye these look OK.What do you think?
The left hand side of the photo are different sides of the same plugs the right hand side ditto.
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so new bush, Bearmach, bought and fitted. I'll have to wait 'till we have done a few miles I expect before I will know if it's fixed or not.
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So some time ago we ordered a new, delux, outer seat base ( EXT378-3 ) for my wifes 1974 SIII. It finally came last week and we went to fit it this weekend but it appears to be toooooooo wide. The current seat tapers at the rear to fit in the frame, the new base does not..
Any ideas on what we might have got wrong? All the other seats are vinyl with fluting and look 'delux' ( well they would if not worn out!).
Cheers,
Rich T
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Thanks for the updates guys.
What was the lead times on your orders?
It's been nearly a month since I placed, and paid for, the order and I have been leaving messages for over a week now. I know life gets busy but all I'm asking for is an expected delivery date. I don't really want to have to tell my credit card to claw the money back but I'm close to doing that.
Cheers,
RichT
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Hello,
Anyone on here know Kieron of MK Performance Hose? I ordered and paid for a hose from him the middle of last month after a chat via Facebook PM. However he has 'gone dark' since then and no hose delivered.
No response to Facebook PM, Phone call, email or txt. So if anyone else knows a way to contact him I would be grateful as he has had good write ups.
cheers,
Richard
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Hi secondjeremy that is very interesting re the diameters. The ones in at the moment are, I believe, bearmach and I have just ordered up another. If I get the same issue with the new one I'll try a Britpart. This may be the one time when their sometimes less than exact reproductions of the originals is a boon!
I'll update this thread with results.
Where do 332521 and 330303 / 4 go?
in Series Forum
Posted
Hello!
Looking in the parts manual it is not clear to me the different locations for the rear tub stays referenced by the part numbers; 33251 and 330303 and 330304.
332521 looks like it bolts to the wheel! (Which can't be right - it wouldn't last very long if it were!).
While 330303 and 330304 seem just as vague in location. It would probably be easier if I had the SIII 1974 88in in front of me to go and peer and poke at - but not necessarily!
Any help much appreciated.