daftpooly

The permanent feed comes straight from the input side of the big fuse box in the engine bay - god (Haynes & Lucas) only knows what that little lot feeds . However, a thought has occurred, and it wasn't painful either, when I was checking wiring for the last time before start number 1, I noticed that the +12v EDIS feed didn't drop to 0v immediately when switching the ignition off but discharged linearly. The question is, did the discharge back to 0v occur because I was earthing through the multimeter and would normally carry some current? :angry: If so is there enough current to keep the relays picked enough to maintain the current, hence my problem :( . If a put a diode in the EDIS feed a la HFH's alternator wold this cure the problem? Are there any adults out there who could answer?

After a long drawn out battle to MS my 3.9 serp Disco, many thanks Nige for all your help, I now have a beast that starts from cold (sort of), idles and sounds very nice ; now here is the 'but': After switching off the engine the ignition/ABS/oil pressure lights remain on but very dimly :huh: and the car won't lock with the remote - pull the earth off the battery, put it back on all is well again :rolleyes:. It's a '94, I'm assuming the alarm isn't a spider - although an adult may come along and prove me wrong and to wire the MS I cut and spliced just behind the multi-plug for the Lucarse ECU . Clearly the alarm is looking to the Lucarse ECU for a signal that the engine is off which it now won't get from the bin , I can't see from the wiring diagrams in RAVE what the alarm is looking for - other than to see if it's in Park or Neutral - and the engine turns off on the key. Have any of the resident MS gurus any idea how I can frig the alarm/immobiliser and fix this problem?

Nige It's your guinea pig engine OOP North Mark

Hi guys, I'm pulling the V8 out of my Disco, and it just won't seperate from the bellhousing. All the bolts are out, the starter is out, exhaust downpipes are off, it's off the mounts but it feels as though there is one bolt still in but there isn't. Is there a dowel between block and bellhousing at the 10 o'clock(ish) position looking from the front of the engine towards the gearbox? For info, the radiator is out, front cover including air con and PAS pumps are off, as is the alternator, o/s exhaust manifold and inlet manifold.

First many thanks to HFH, FF and BBC for such an inspirational thread - I'm about to squirt/EDIS my Disco and can only [s][/s]blame thank you guys for giving me the confidence. Now, to my very simple question - there seem to be many members who have squirted a serpentine lump - where did you put the coil packs and how did you mount them? Can I have some pics please? The build was going to start next weekend but I cooked the engine yesterday so it's coming out for a rebuild and whilst it's out the vr and trigger wheel can be placed without scraping more skin off my knuckles

Have a look here http://homepage.ntlworld.com/stage1v8/TechnicalDIBootFloorReplacement.htm I rapidly learnt the art of welding when I done mine a few weeks ago, quite easy really

The Disco has gone back on the road today after a 4 month list of job were completed which included a top end rebuild, now the car is running beautifully but when I took it for a test run soon after a blast to the red line it started misbehaving. It's a 3.9 auto and after exiting a roundabout it revved to 1500 then dropped to tickover then revved to 1500 then dropped to tickover, which is all it would do. I got it back home, put it in neutral or park and it revs to the red line no problem, is this a gearbox problem and if so - any ideas guys. I've no idea if the kickdown cable would influence this and I'm not sure if it is correctly adjusted. Also I didn't check the oil level in the box since putting it off road so I'm waiting for all to go cold.

The pen tip trick worked - thanks very much the responses guys

My wonderful brother-in-law managed to play a bit too vigrously with my distributor breaking the little bit that sits on top of the shaft inside the rotor arm and one of the advance springs . Has anybody any idea where I can get some spares . I've trawled t'net and can only find a repair kit which doesn't have either bits in it and the 'distributor doctor' obviously doesn't think my plight warrants a response.

Thanks for that, now let's see how much ARP head studs are.

Luckily the head is flat, how I haven't a clue, but i was worried when it was coming off. The bolt has snapped flush with the block.

Hi guys, the project eventually started today with stage 1 being a top end rebuild of my 3.9 auto Disco . The bad news is a previous muppet owner seems to have had one head off too and in the process didn't evenly torque that head, used a wonderul combination of bolts and left out gaskets, washers, etc. Even worse one of the head bolts has snapped , which raises 2 questions:- 1. The bolt in question is on the bottom bank of four, now i know later engines didn't use that row of four bolts, so can i take the risk of putting the head back without this bolt . Which leads me to the second question. 2. If the response is an overwhelming no, what's the best method of getting the snapped bit out, bear in mind that the car is on my drive and i don't really want to take the block out . One final thing, the shoppong list is of course growing, does anybody have a pair of exhaust manifolds, the originals have lovely cracks and a bottom cover for the flyheel, mine's missing and i don't think exposing the flywheel will be any good when i get it wet. I'm in the Northe East if that helps. Thanks in advance guys.

OK boys this is my first thread so I'm ready for the PI55 taking. I have 300 series 3.9EFi Disco with only one pipe connected to the distributor vacuum advance that goes back to the plenum. There's another outlet on the opposite side of the distibutor vacuum advance, where should the plumbing run to?