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Hybrid_From_Hell

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Hybrid_From_Hell last won the day on January 14

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About Hybrid_From_Hell

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    It's Official - Mr Bump really does have brain damage ......

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    http://www.Megasquirt-V8.co.uk

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    Inventing Shed left of Chateaux Hell

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  • Interests
    Er Land Rovers Fabrication, Modification and generally hitting things so they fit. Known to (occasionally) do really stupid things, waxoiling my cat and Swallowing brake fliud hitting my steel cap boots with a sledge hammer and folding in the toe...

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  1. PWM Option when populating MS ECU board

    HIS way ?... I have a proper grown up do ECUs, The thought of me doing those electricitky bits and waving a soldering iron would be similar to Mongo from Blazzling Saddles doing a Pacemaker fiment
  2. Groaning noise on Ashcroft ATB

    OK If the pinion was left alone, then its not height or preload that is wrong. IF the head or tail bearings were changed them you need to height block to check / and reshim head height to what is WAS not 0.0 and then preload would also need setting. If none of this was distrubed then read on. A centre is a centre, Locker ATB LSD 4 pin the process the basically the same with differences ... The 2 x carrier bearings are adjusted via adjuster rings to set the back lash. The back lash MUST be measured with a dial gauage and set correctly, the back lash is what gap there is fron rocking the cwp back and forth in a click - clock sort of noise, typically set to 4-6 thou backlash. Now, the dial gauage we use we check 6 quadrants, ie 12 o clock 2 4 6 8 10 o Clock Each will give its own reading good to brilliant would be say 5 5 5 5 5 5 = 0 backlash but unlilley you get 0, so its the highest vs the lowest ie 5 8 5 4 5 4 = 8 high 4 low = 4 thou Run out + too high. Running with bug run out / tight spots will quickly kill crown wheel and bearings too My guess is he didn't do the above properly, and you will find massive backlash AND run out variances. In which case he needs kicking ion the crown jewels for being a Knob Nige
  3. Er. Ouch ....

    wow !. I've heard ... Peugeot poxy engines useless gearboxes everyone often trouble. oh and lotus loads of trouble usually serious 🤣🤣🤣 but mate today ex McLaren racing told me a new one . land rover Lousy Arrogant Narcisric Dealers Reliabilty Often Very Equally Rubbish even as a LR fan owner and even a LR related business ...made me laugh more sadly some serious truth in there 🤧 Something when that's a top of the industry view of our loved marque....and speaks volumes
  4. TIG helmet recommendations

    <cough>
  5. New toys... help required...

    R Tech are not bad, but do you really want AC/DC ? AC adds a huge £s to the TOG costs. Take a look at the ESAD DC unit with collant torch assmebly VVV Nice Nige
  6. LT85 20c solid case rebuilt

    fab work. fab write up ....to thr tech archive I vote
  7. Mini Tech LR Half Shaft Upgrades - Info Bit of Tech - Advice

    ^^ Must check out swear filter later - WTF is that ^^^
  8. Mini Tech LR Half Shaft Upgrades - Info Bit of Tech - Advice

    V8 rear are difference as drum braked. They weere slightly flared, but not much stronger than standard, the poor V8 they put in it was strngled from birth BHP wise LOL And now, all I have to do is finish drilling out the sheared off bolts in the hub and refit .. 30 mins job my &quot;Person Resembling a Pink Starfish&quot;
  9. Mini Tech LR Half Shaft Upgrades - Info Bit of Tech - Advice

    "FFS nigel...can you leave those bloody 300m shafts alone . ..and pay sone attention other than them please. Christ amazed you don't take the bloody things to bed" eh ? what's that love... .just coming dear"...
  10. Oooooooh Tommorow (was planning to today but things got complicated) am changing my Half Shafts. The ones I have at present (Presold so don't ask ) are KAM 'Aerospace' Grade, which are pretty much the same strength as Ashcrofts HD (made in same factory - just different in minor places) , which are significantly stronger than standard, and look 1,000,000 better. I am upgrading to 300M, which are artwork and just plain beautiful....as you will see in the pics. But, I am doing this mini Tech article, as there is a load of nonsense talked about half shafts etc, so here we go with some pics and numbers, and advise but in simple terms. Standard Half Shaft - Genuine LR circa £600 Pair / Britpart HD £60 These will break like they have been sawn in half, the break is clean and small bits of swarf, they can break either end but rarely in the middle. the 2 reasons for breaking when overloading is the quality of the metal and lack of after finishing, plus poor radius on the sheer points, so you can upgrade. We had the Aerospace grade KAM units tested when I worked there, and we sent a Britpart HD unit too, that failed below standard LR unit. Break around 3300 ish Nm Twist KAM / Ashcrofts - Circa £300 Pair KAM do / did 3 Grades. The HD (old and not much stronger than standard in 32 spline EN19 ) but the HD stronger than standard shear about 4200 Nms, and then the best - which they called Aerospace (for some odd reason). These Like Ashcroft HD shafts are made from 4320 alloy steel, with transitional Heat treatments and other better things, like the radius are better,, which are often weak stress points where they will shear and overall costs far more to make and hence the jump in price. However, when these break (which they can - nothing is unbreakable) they tend to shatter like stick of Brighton rock hit by a hammer, with big shards going everywhere, and they can destroy your diff in a nano second, but far far stronger. Pointless fitting on a standard diff, the weak point will be your 2 pin diff, and it that breaks in can damage the shafts, so, IMVHO fit HD shafts when you fit a Locker, ATB, LSD, 4 pin etc, as now the weak spot is your shafts not the diff....It you Do NOT upgrade to KAM / Ashcroft shafts when you upgrade your diff, your shafts could easily destroy you new diff... Shearing here is around 7500 Nms ish Thats a HUGE increase in strength Ashcrofts 300M - Circa £580 Pair Artwork (see the pics !) These are actually made differently to any of the above, the metal is massively stronger, and hugely more expensive, but the shafts are wasted slightly in the centres to allow for greater flexing before breakages. When these break it will prob destroy anything in its path, I have seen only one and it broke a rear hole right through the axle tube, and destroyed a Quaiffe ATB at the same time. However, in its defense the driver said he was not surprised as it was "A severe mad red mist moment of insanity and expected to either die or be seriously injured lol" The break point for these due to better metal, treatments and waisting is estminated in excess of 9700Nms Ish With either the KAM or Ashcroft HD or 300m you really need to fit the Ashcroft / KAM drive flanges. The pattern stuff is poor quality and the splines will not thank you for it. Lastly with all of the above run EP90, not 80/90 or 85/90, EP90 is very different and helps protect best. Buy a drum from a Tractor / agricultural shop vs Halfords and you'll be surprised how cheap a small 25 litre drum can be ! As an aside I have removed the oil seals and run EP90 in all hubs front and rear, not grease, to do this cut off the rubber on the dowty seals and run RTC3511 oil seals which the early RR had pre going over to grease, and are a direct swap fit in the rear of the Hubs front or rear. Pics to follow tommorow If I can bring myself to fit them once unpacked ! Nige
  11. Premium Durability, premium b******s more like

    Hmm Looks like all the other , and looks more like a car than an 90 / Def replancemt But, as a fashion item no doubt it will sell well
  12. KAM "Fuseable Stub shafts" CV Conversion Kits - Please respond !

    Absolutely 100% agree Red90. Prob was it wasn't But easi;y could have been. I have looked into : Make CVs and Stubs Making "Fuseable" stubs suitable for HD / ashcroft shafts etc tad weaker than Looked at making an upgrade to super strong Stubs a la 300M etc. Probs are Make CVs and Stubs Prob here is capital outlay, fgrom memeory tyhese were aroun £180 each to be made plus shipping etc, and stubs cicra £30 each. Even If I did a low production run of say 50 units, thats 50* £180 + £30 x 100 stubs (3 per kit) =- an outlay of £12,000 - and being a low CNC run prices will be higher. Quite simply I don't have that sort of capital ! then the question of sellong them .... Making "Fuseable" stubs suitable for HD / ashcroft shafts etc tad weaker than etc Maybe. could go for a low production run of stubs, say 50 stubs, price due to low volume is looking at to me circa £70...£3500, still a big lump of capital to me, and I have to question if I make say £10 on eaqch, how many peeps are going to buy stubs that break at £80 ?...yes a few but thats £3500 held in slow movingf stic, and a total profit of only £500... Looked at making an upgrade to super strong Stubs a la 300M etc. Maybe, but now 2 problems. Costs of 300M stubs vs the above, and then even lesser volumes as won't break - in effect will just help peeps not have KAM CV kit unusable... Costs here are horrendous for say run of 25 units .. Lastly Spline cutting LR use a stange profile, so also looking at haveing to by a special tool for the CNC, and it will be a one off tooling vs reoplaceable tips, and thats a few £100 too ..... Hmmm Ots a close balamce between feeling it should be done for the people out there now stuck vs a commercial product with legs that might MIGHT make me a few quid, or a dead duck I should just let alone... Still thinking tho N
  13. KAM "Fuseable Stub shafts" CV Conversion Kits - Please respond !

    Ok me 2p worth This all sorts of kicks in when you run MUCH bigger tyres / BHPO / competitions ...and or any of these esp all 3 ! Diffs like a std 2 pin break so you upgrade to a 4 pin or a locker Then shafts break so you upgrade to ashcroft / Kam (or did !) syhafts Then CVs break Additionally LATE LRs have the daft and serioulsy weak 32 spline CV - you can't upgrade shafts / CBs for these = so its a big jump 23 spline CVs there are variuous units LONGs - fitted to early 100s etc shorts - later units Ealy no stub CV 60662 23 one end 10 the other with stubs retc as outlined above. I ran 606662s for years - with ashcroft HD shafts and stubs with 10 spine ends, then upgraded to Qualiffe stubs (sadly NLA) which was a seriously strong unit Standard CVs long or short are also quite strong - I would say 606662 and stubs are better But you can go for Ashcroft CVs, stronger than any of the above, but, nothing is unbreakable, and yes they can break - even if rarely IF they break in a competition it is game over unless you have spares and time to sort. The KAM unit was like the above, made same factrory ! but with the fuseable link stub shaft This is where is got silly When I was at KAM there was madness in cutting grooves in stubs to make then weaker - for peeps on std Half shafts - madness ! These stubs snapped like carrots, eventually I was saying to people do NOT buy these and have the stubs reduced in OD, buy shafts and CVs and full uncut stubs - which where up there with Ashcrofts. Then someone decided to make in a lessrer grade steel, these uncut alsio snapped like carroits ! Then we have them remade in original metal etc and even had a few dsets of 300M made - and these were the best. Lasrer etched with KAM 341 etc on them - as tough - poss tougher than ashcrofts and fiv=xable is seconds. The CVs were tested in USA on full lock and exceeded 15,000Nm and that was the max the machine could test. The CVs rartelt fail, when they did it was iften IMHO poor fitting (shimming correctly was needed) and the lesser stubs breaking and destroying the CV ! It was a great product if only attention to detial and less frigging about on specs and more quality had been shown. Sad, they offerred I think another Option to the market - which is good, choice is good Prob I have is I would need to invest is very spendy tooling to make these and they would be expensive... Its still a maybe - interest is high from n ay forums and fedabcks, but that might drop when the prices for remaking are known Hope the above background / info usefull N
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