tiddler66

Thats brilliant news, thanks for the tip.

I really must be getting better at this Land Rover thing, as I have now got the parts book on CD, and I have found the part number and also found a supplier for the washer.

Please could some one tell me what size of sealing washer I need to order for the petrol tank drain plug on my 5dr LWB SW?

Also, have people traditionaly fitted steering guards and tank guards to series LWB SW?

Would anyone have a spare pin, so they could post a picture of it?

For what its worth, I have always found that it works out cheaper to buy an old "proper" trailer and fix it up than make one from scratch ......... andI have also found that a "proper" trailer is always safer than an improvised one....

Hi, does anyone out there know of any plans for a set of rock sliders for a series 3 109 LWB?

I have used Dyfed Steel many times and always found them to be top class.

I thought that the point system, was only used if you were trying to get a new identity for a vehicle........if you have the identity already.....either from years ago, or on SORN, it won't be inspected????

I would also like to know what the difference is between the left hand side and the right......can they be easily modded and which type is used for the rear step on a Station Wagon as mine is missing.

Hi all, would some one be able to give me a rough idea of how much I should pay for a capstan winch....also is there any reason to choose one make over another?

Do you mean like a long grub screw? I don't surpose anyone will know what size and thread its surposed to be?

Has anyone here ever had to change that little pin that stops the gear stick from rotating?.......Mine is missing and it makes changing gear a real pain in the Yaris. I have read in the manual, that it is peened over.......does any body have advice on this topic? What size is the pin? Is peening the right way to go?

I won't get a chance to check untill Thursday at the earliest, but I will let you know the values, as soon as I can.

Does anyone know what type of fault would cause that, and how to repair it?

Many thanks for your help

Hi all, perhaps some kind sole could identify the fault with my alternator. (I assume its a fault) The charging red light is off at idle but it starts to glow as its revved, and as the revs increase it glows more brightly. I do not know if its flattening the battery, as the car is laid up untill the chassis has been welded......(and I have removed the petrol tank....but I have conected a small gravity feed tank, just so that I can easily move it around the yard on my own).

Has anyone on the forum ever seen a 109 1/4 chassis? Having asked all the people in the trade I can think of, they say no......but I have seen one advertised on ebay about a year ago.......??

Many thanks for that, and do you have the part number for a Station Wagon?

The chassis has had a rear crossmember with extensions fitted before. The replacement was now so rotten, that it did not need to be cut off.....it just crumbled away.....I now am going to fit another replacement....ie, its 3rd rear crossmember. The extensions are about 1" short of touching the next crossmember (the one covered by the petrol tank). My new extensions will not go over the other extensions......and I can't simply remove them, because there is virtually nothing left of the original chassis rail......I am going to cut them off flush with the second crossmember, and weld on some newly fabricated rails, which will run from the petrol tank crossmember back, so that I can simply slip on the new rear crossmember and weld it up. Unless anyone nows better, I will make the rails to fit my new replacement member. Its just nice to know what they should be.

My 109 has had the rear crossmember replaced once before.....and now the whole rear end is very corroded......what size should the rails be.........my replacement crossmember will accept a box section 120 X 80 mm where as the stumps sticking out of the chassis I have are 150 X 90 mm.

Does any one know if the side steps from a 110, can be used on a series 3?

What is the recomended repair method for my rear tub, where the 10 bolts are meant to hold the rear body to the tub there is just a series of holes......I have the steel plates that originally were rivetted to the aluminium lip......so can you replace the lip entirely, or would you cut away the damage and rivet on a new piece of aluminium?

I know that in theory a chassis swap can be done in a weekend, but I don't have the helpers, time (young family) or the money (£1140 + VAT +delivery from Richards) to do it at the moment...but I do want to keep the landie going....The dumb irons have already been done and the middle seems good..If i only get another 2 years out of the chassis, then thats better than scrapping her.....and it gives me 2 years to plan the chassis swap...so its either take off bits of the rear body and weld it easily.....or.....get burnt a lot and weld it up ish...but well enough to pass the MOT ...ps Marsland and Designa both have stopped doing 109 chassis' as there was so little demand. Also, the alloy lip that the rear crossmember is bolted to is heavily coroded......is that piece available, or do people just rivet a new piece over it?

I have spoken to Designa Chassis, Marsland and Richards, and they say that there never has been a 1/4 chassis for the 109.....and yes mine is a 5 door Station Wagon......so my hope is to undo the roof- windscreen bolts, take off the rear door and the middle doors, brace the B posts with timber, undo the b posts at the roof.....there is no rear cross member left, so I then intend to tack the replacement in place onto whats left. (this will take all the brain work out of lining things up properly) undo the bolts underneath on the out rigger and lift the roof off complete with the rear tub......by leaving the b posts on the chassis, I hope to prevent any undue floppyness..........but it all depends on how and where the joints are in the floor......