mobyone

if the intercooler is less restrictive than the original, if you guage the pressure before the i/c, that is not necessarily what pressure is at the inlet due to the pressure drop accross i/c. if it was say 1 bar before the original i/c was replaced, then you fitted the new one without adj, measure the inlet pressure at 3k revs and it probably wont be 1 bar still as if the less restrictive i/c means the turbo does not have to work as hard to squeeze the air through it. plumb the pressure guage into the inlet manifold and you will get a true reading that the engine see's then you can adjust wastegate as necessary. judging by the issues jst has had, i am not sure any massive fuelling adj is necessary, so just adjusting the smoke screw is maybe all you need to do. and his sits at 15 psi(1 and a little bit bar!!) just my ten pence worth. richard

yes, rotating the diaghram 90 degrees does hike up the horses. but the maximum torque figure will not be altered much if at all. the torque is what will trash your clutch/gbox not the horses. i dont have a tgv but the maximum torque i believe wont be altered by the fuel pump tweeks. btw, have you set the wastegate up to produve 1 bar again as you fitted an uprated ic? more boost will keep the egt down aswell. richard

i replaced mine too, and the squealing came back in under 200 miles. from memory it is a 6203 bearing i think, but it is sealed both sides. google simply bearings and you can get them there better and cheaper than ebay. anyway, the fix i found was to fit a washer in 9 o'clock position behind the tensioner and bolt it tight. it stopped the squealing straight away and i have several thousand miles under it and the engine now lives in another disco too. richard

yup, had a 405 tdi once, had it serviced. drove off only to get 3 miles and the engine blew up. the garage put 1 litre of oil in it! the apprentice did the job and nobody even bothered to check his work. td5's are not cheap to replace, so mechanically simple jobs i would do myself too. servicing now you have done some will only get easier with practice, and mobile mechanics are a godsend if you find a good one. most aa/rac engineers are good so if you see one sitting around, ask him if he does mechanics in his off time. i found the answer is more often than not yes. just a chat to him will tell if he knows what he is talking about. richard

if it is the aux tensioner, the bearing can be replaced for a new one for less than a fiver. if you take off the aux belt and it stops, it is either the alt/pas pump/water pump or bearing itself. mine started doing it for no particular reason, i just put a washer behind the corner of the aux tensioner at 9 o'clock position and tightened it up again. if it is the aux belt tensioner, the wheel is left hand thread to undo and replace bearing, the body of tensioner is a normal thread and does come off without the fan being removed. if it still squeaks when aux belt is off, you know it is not auxuilliaries so go with timing belt kit. richard

it is worth checking things like brakes sticking on slightly too, that will increase your fuel consumption. and it is something you can do before you pay out your hard earned. richard

from the pics you put up mark, can you not just cut right up the b/head and along the outside of the disco/rr chasis rails and cut the rear arches up the same amount then allow the freelander to sit deeper into the disco/rr chassis and secure the body to the rail sides rather than the top. i see what you mean by lowering it as low as it could go, i think perhaps on the freelander pictured, the chassis must have been cut and the whole rail heaight lowered or the floor was raised inside the freelander chassis to take this into acount. i know this is not waht you wanted to do, but unless you do that or allow more protrusion into freelander chassis, i cant see it lowering far enough either. very interesting read, shame you dont bite the bullet and go for it on the freelander though, but someone might buy it form you as is, so understand you could get some money back buy doing nothing else to it... real shame. richard

how do you know water went into the sump? it is difficult to get there unless yor gasket is breached or sump has a hole in it somewhere. do you mean that, or do you mean water went into inlet then into cylinder? if it only ran for a min then stopped did it die the death or struggle to run then stop? water in combustion chamber hydraulically locks pistons sometimes then you can have bent rods, but the other way around just removes the lubrication the oil gives. if it was alot, then the oil would be mayonaise and wont pump anywhere. but just a bit you can live for a bit as most of the oil still circulates. you dont say if it is a diesel or a v8 not that it matters in as much as the effect the water would have done, but you might be lucky if v8 as it could be a sensor. what is the engine? did the engine squeal before death...? richard

the tax starts from the first of whichever month or last day of that month. so if you buy before the 30th/31st of that month, you will lose one month of tax as the disc you get will be from the first of that month. if bought 30/31 then it is from that day. the police have to give you the benefit of the doubt on this as it happened to me. you can get the garage to buy it for you as they have an open policy for any vehicle which is mot'd. richard

well, you could remove a key item in the engine and replace it with a faulty unit or induce a fault which would not be able to be fixed roadside. say the ignition amp if it is petrol, or put a nick in a brake line and then ring the aa/rac if you have breakdown cover. they will have to relay you hopme or to a garage of your choice if you have a roadside relay policy. they are free with most bank accounts these days. just check before you do it though. i know barclays do it as i have done this twice now. they wont fix brakes at the roadside and often only carry little parts to fix common engines (fords/vw's...) good luck, but if no luck there are towing companies out there, rent a trailer even. they are about £80-£100 for a weekend richard

certainly sounds like the fork is broken, but the last thing to check. yes bleed, yes look for leaks, twisted or blistered hoses and then, move to the slave cylinder or fork. no adjustment on disco's. richard

chock the wheels,remove props, engine crane through the car hang the g/box then lower. you really some need room for the crankshaft oil seal. clutch straight after the oil seal do the timing belt in-situ. it would be easier with engine out, but if you really want it to stay there, do it from the back by removing the g/box. the flywheel will be more difficult with engine still in though. richard

ok, so for power, i would just pick off from another gauge +ve. for earth, just go to metal. for the tacho part. you use the alternator for the revs. just run off from the voltage reg on the back of the alternator. pretty sure it is the voltage reg post. if not, then it is the other small post on the alternator. they use phase for the revs. i will go out and look at my 300 tomorrow and look. you will need to run a wire through the bulkhead from the alternator if there is not one already, which i would say there is not one. happy new year, richard

0.5-1 mm is ridiculous. making bigger engine capacities involves only mm's of enlargement of bores either side. i would say it is coke build-up. just try to nick it with a stanley blade, it will remove easily when scraped gently. also, if you scratch it with the side of a blade, the metal colour will show, you will see. you will not hurt the bores if you just gently do this. for the 30-45 like pattern, you need to move the tool down the bore fairly quickly. the slower you go down and up makes the angle of the pattern more shallow. steep angles are done by briskly honing up and down the bores. the speed at which your drill should turn is only about 200 rpm. not very fast. the slower the better really. and dont forget engine oil on your stones. you will do well running the engine with parafin type engine flush with the old filter when you have rebuilt it. when it is hot, drain it then change the oil and filter again at 500 miles. you will use oil probably up to about 1000 miles, just keep a spare litre kicking about. stones are good for oval bores, but the multi ball aerohone type hones are great. aeroplane engines are done with these and they say only an hour of wearing in too... just need the right grit for honing, or they only really de-glaze your bores. do cover the crank up, as best you can. you will only have hassle of the debris to remove if you dont. happy new year by the way. richard

yes, you will need to set up tappet clearences again. i did not mean to mislead you, i just meant that you will only need a slight adjustment with the same rod as opposed to a total adjustment of all tappet clearences if the rods were muddled. but getting the timing belt and tensioner done whilst you do this will make sense as you can do these whilst the head is off and getting skimmed. by the time you get it back, the head can go on, bang. job done. mate, have a good xmas and look forward to hearing how it went in the new year. richard