sadoldgit
-
Posts
56 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by sadoldgit
-
-
I've read some good things about these turbo replacement cartridges. Are these too good to be true ?
Mo
We call them 'turbo inserts' on the ships I've worked on and they're a good fix. didn't realize you could get them for baby turbos.
-
Good afternoon Exeter :-)
I'm no expert but I'd say that turbo was pure feckered, these things spin at phenomenal RPM and your whistle is probably a combination of the disturbed airstream and an out of balance unit. I'd also be a little worried as to where whatever has done the damage has gone.
Hope I'm wrong, Paul
-
Cheers chaps,
not had much chance to test the 'Old Girl' since I fitted the new engine. A week of working outside in the pishing rain and lying underneath it in puddles seems to have done my back in. Not even had a chance to get it good and hot to give a good blast but I'll keep my eye on the boost pressure when I do.
Thanks, Paul
-
Just fitted a Disco 200TDi to replace the cracking 19j that JST sold me seven years and 100k ago. Before fitting it I noticed that the wastegate was stiff to operate so freed it off by lots of judicious working and WD40 and hoping that a good dose of heat would sort it out once the engine got some use. What are the symptoms/consequences of a seized closed wastegate and what is the standard boost pressure?
Cheers, Paul
-
When I replaced my 200tdi rad it had the newer style adaptors that had the o-ring fitting for the oil pipes. These unscrewed after some persuasion (thought I was going to break the rad and I work on industrial piping!), I then fitted the conical older style adaptors from my original radiator.
I did go to the bother of ordering up the newer style 200tdi hoses, but these have different fittings at the sandwich plate on the oil filter housing.
Hi Scott,
so did you managed to unscrew the male brass fittings from the plastic tank? I was kinda scared of wrecking the plastic end cap.
Cheers, Paul
-
Methinks I've sorted it,
The s**tpart ones are M20x1.5 male and the Landy ones 1/2BSP, now some dude on eBlag is selling these adapters for a mere snip at £28 plus £10 postage
:rofl: I've just managed to find some for around £3.50 each. Mind you by the time the VAT and postage are added it's still £20 but beats the carp out of £38.Cheers, Paul
-
Hit a snag with my Disco 200TDi conversion that seems to get the odd mention the in numerous threads (no pun intended) but this one is a little different.
My old TD rad has fine threaded female inserts in the tank and a fine thread to BSP male adapter. All the threads on the cooler pipes are BSP both ends. The Disco I got given has male BSP threads soldered into the radiator but the core is pretty finless so I purchased a new S***part rad BTP1823S thinking that I'd eventually get my own unit recored ready for when the S***part one fails after 25 months.
However the S***part one has fine threaded male fittings on it, which I guess are the same as the female ones in my old TD rad. Anyone else had this? and if so how did you sort it?
Cheers, Paul
-
Don't mean to hijack this thread peeps but I've just pulled the engine out of the 'Old Girl' and found my intermittent fault and I think Jack's may be something similar. Mine was the thick white wire with red tracer rubbing on the thick yellow wire with black tracer that supplies the heater plugs. Just at the back of the cylinder head, they'd both had their insulation rubbed away and the copper strands were occasionally touching. Methinks the heater motor and starter wires will be doing something similar as the engine shakes to a stop.
Good luck, Paul
-
1
-
-
My 87 with 200 tdi fitted never had one, just a straight feed from the ignition barrel to the starter solenoid. Your fault could be a worn barrel though, just making contact when held in the pre-heat position.
Hi Scott,
that was my first thought too so I fitted a genuine ignition switch which seemed to cure it for a while but now the fault has returned :-( Fitting a Disco 200TDi over the weekend and hoping to find the wiring loom chaffed or damaged somewhere.
Methinks that's possibly Jack's problem too.
Cheers, Paul
-
Have you tried popping out the starter relay to see if it still tries to crank? Will narrow any short down to before or after relay...ie from ign barrel feed down or from relay to starter solenoid.
Does an 86 90 have a starter relay?? reason I ask is mine doesn't and I've a bizarre starter fault too. Sometimes my starter operates in the glow plug position, certainly couldn't find a relay when I was looking for the cause of that fault.
-
there's no way to get the part into the phosphoric acid bath I keep here for parts that can be dunked.
I've got one of those too !!!!!!! marvelous things, did you know that Coca Cola is full of the stuff?
-
Heat up and apply a candle and the wax will wick into the gaps, then solidify and in the process help break some of the bonds.
Well I never,
I've been undoing seized bolts since 1971 and I thought I'd heard of everything but that's a new one one me
-
Do everything that Scott 90 said plus, get a good chisel and belt the chassis lug and bracket along the length of the bolt, right from the head to the thread. This will deform the chassis lug ever so slightly and release the bolt, also hit the bolt head as opposed to the nut and as Scott says 'tighten as well as loosen', it will come out.
Good luck, Paul
-
Do you have a hand held IR thermometer? if you don't then buy one and you'll wonder how on earth you ever managed without it. You can get a good one for a £100 but a Fleabay one for £20 will do the job just as well. Connect everything up then just look for the warmer wire or fuse.They're invaluable in tracing electrical faults, even before they occur.
Cheers, Paul
-
Glow plug realy stuck?? don't even know if they have one, but it's the only thing that I can think of that would draw that amount of current without blowing a fuse.
Good luck, Paul
-
Hi Paul.
I could realy get involved with this electrolitic corrosion on here,but better not.
Aye your dead right there matey, it's worth a whole book on the subject, I'm thinking you must have had a boat at some time
There's many a boat been lost by people who didn't take head of electrolytic action.Cheers, Paul
-
I rebuilt my front doors with new aluminium skins and replacement section door bottom steelwork.
Chopped the old bottom section out, welded new piece in, covered the whole steel frame in multiple layers of red oxide, then applied 3 or 4 layers of really thick&wide PVC tape over the top of it all, followed by lashings of waxoyl before placing the skin over the top and bashing the edges over. Been like new for the last year and half now, no reason why they wont last another 18 years.
I'd probably do something similar meself but I've never seen alluminium 2nd row door skins for sale, my frames are sound it's just the skins that are dented and I'm a bit of a girl when it comes to my Landy
Cheers, Paul
-
I was always under the impression that its the rusting steel frame that then reacts with the alloy which then gives the electrolosis on the door skin
Fraid not it's the different electrical potential between the two metals.
Cheers, Paul
-
Personally i would think that using them the whole door will rot not just the frames but at least it will all probably fall apart together
On the contrary the reason why they rot so badly is due to the electrolytic action between the steel frame and the alloy panel. If the whole door where ally it would last forever, if the whole door were well treated steel it would last 20 years as it is now my genuine waxoyled from new defender front doors are showing the first signs of electrolytic corrosion after 6 years
Cheers, Paul
-
Hi im sorry i have no personal experience but i have noticed they have been selling on ebay recently if you can find them i am pretty surre it was craddocks selling them, and look at their feedback you will find some people who have purchased them and by contacting the buyers through ebay you can ask the question. If you have any difficulty with this let me know and when i get 5mins i can do it for you regards Antony
Cheers for that Antony, never thought of it
Paul
-
Hi Stoney,
I know nothing of immobilizers
just wanted to congratulate you on the truck 
Cheers, Paul
-
My 110 SW rear doors are dented but 'tin worm' free. As aluminium is very difficult to repair I was thinking of fitting these
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-...A1%7C240%3A1318
steel door skins from Craddocks, does anyone know if they are any good?
Cheers, Paul
-
You will also need a tool to compress the case as otherwise you cannot get the diff out.
If you are VERY unlucky you will need to compress the casing, I have done many of these axles, mainly on Fords but Land Rovers as well and have never yet needed the tool despite working for a dealer that had it. You remove the caps, place a 19mm combi on a crown wheel bolt to stop the diff turning then carefully pry it out with a bar. To get back in use a block of wood and hammer
As far as DIY goes, it is as 'Diff' says doable but not easy. I did mine a couple of years ago and without the correct tools you need a full day for setting it up and allot of shims. AND THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT use nothing other than Timken bearings in the pinnion.Good luck, Paul
-
Hi, jumped in my Td1200 this morning, wet weather outside...(and inside!)...
My steering wheel covered my hands in black grubby bits....
Is there anything I can coat it with, or is it a leather steering wheel cover or new wheel.....?
I know i'm being a bit of a girle here but I was all nice and clean and on my way to work and..... alright I'm a girle....
cheers
db
bit of a girlie meself r, i keep a pack of baby wipes in the cubby box just for the steering wheel (sad or what)
:rofl: 
There's many a boat been lost by people who didn't take head of electrolytic action.
Cheap half shafts - any good?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I'm with OH on this one, reluctantly bought a Shi****t one five years ago as a new one from LR was £350, been fine ever since.