sadoldgit
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Posts posted by sadoldgit
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fitted this the other day!! B)
looks the dogs, how much was it matey
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Hmmmm. Rather than banning perhaps folks up there should avoid choosing vehicles with sunroofs then
this was exactly the conclusion i came to whilst the wife and i drove down to glasgow with our oilskins on !!!!!!!
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seriously guys, suffolk, herts, cornwall
you get about 30" of rain a year we get that in a month (usually sideways at 60mph) sunroofs should be banned at this lattitude 
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remove said sunroof store in green plastic bin for collection by local council
buy alloy plate cut to overlap size of said hole left in roof then rivet and seal in place end of rain leak
buy some colour matched roof lining. mount to cover hole inside
paint roof white
D3 sunroofs leak D2 sunroofs Leak range rovers sunroofs leak
they just leak and with the body movment on defenders you have no hope
or you could just seal it up total with sikflex mastic never to be opened again
dan
this is sage advice
for anyone living north of the border where the rain is like a powerwasher 
every vehicle i've had here has pished in water from the sunroof i will NEVER buy another vehicle that has one unless i move to east anglia (which is unlikely)
goodluck stoney
, regards, paul -
I have bought a pair of lift up handle doors that are going to replace by nackered push button doors from my 90.
Can i simply swap over the door runners and most of the mechanisms or will parts need to be bought?
I obviously need to buy new window sill seals for the new doors as they are bare? but somewhere along the line the glass thickness changed so presumably the seal size changed?
Thanks for any input
ben
hi ben, i did this the other way round and there are allot of differences, so i bought an old set of push button doors as donors. there must be lots of people who have done this mod and have old lift up doors they want rid of. the glass thickness is the least of your worries, door latches, cards, interior handles are all different. i binned mine or you could have had em for the price of the courier.
good luck, paul
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fill it with belzona and wrap a coke tin round it
good luck, paul
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Hi,
Can anyone tell me the turbo outlet temp for a TDi. I'm talking about for the air, not the exhaust gases. I've gort a disco TD5 rad and intercooler assembly installed in my 90 and the connections all align perfectly with my Mazda 35SL engine's water and intake / turbo connections with the exception of the intercooler connections being on the wrong side as the turbo is on the RHS (drivers side) and the inlet on the other. Thought about turning the intercooler upside down but with the TD5 rad there are cut outs for the intercooler hose and it all sits nicely as is.
The outlet header on the TD5 intercooler is some form of plastic whereas the inlet is aluminium. The way I'm looking to use it, this will be reversed. Do you think it will melt? LR obviously made one side aluminium for areason although the plastic does seem like a durable high temperature type. Would this be belt and braces stuff?
If it get's so hot, why don't the rubber hoses connecting it melt?
I'm obviously trying to convince myself there's no problem but would like some support.... please!?!?
Cheers,
Martin
hi martin i think the reason it's ally on the inlet side is for heat transfer, by the time the air gets to the other side it's cooler so not as important. well that's what i think anyway though i could be full of cr4p
can't see it being an issue though.good luck, paul
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I'll second that. That's exactly where I put mine in the 110, worked a treat, also very easy to route the cable's.
yep, and in the headlining by your ear aswell, you can alter your balance so most of the sound comes out the back with just a wee bit from the front, sounds great
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Are they like the V8 ones in a blind hole in the end of the crankshaft? If so stuff them full of grease, insert any old bit of round bar which is a reasonable sliding fit into the end of the bush and tap the bar through the bush with a hammer ... bush pops out under hydraulic pressure. So simple it's magic!
Just remember to remove the grease afterwards!AndyG
tried that andy, hit it so hard that the grease detonated
i have used this method many times with success but it does not seem to work so well on the bronze bushes. works without fail on ball races right enough and for 91p it's not worth the risk.cheers, paul
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hi ged,
might be worth gettin' a spiggot shaft bush, only 91p for a gen landy one. i only mention this cos i've just swapped the engine in mine and the one in the new lump was dodgy and they're impossible to get out without damage. i live in the middle of nowhere and had tried to foresee everything, hose clips, clutch kit and fork, new belts, loctite for flywheel bolts (and oil seal) etc, etc, used genuine seal and the installer and it still leaked
good luck, paul
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hi guys,
whilst we're on the subject of door skins can you get them for 2nd row doors?
cheers,
paul
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I don't see how 9" is going to offer any grip, nor will they be made to hold 1000s of KGs.
We use two 2" x 4 ft stakes for cliff/mud rescue, in the classic 45 degree rig, and we've moved the front one a bit on hard pulls, with almost 3ft of it in the ground.
here's one i found on the seabed
though it's a bit heavy at 4.5tons
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The casing spreader business comes from the correct preload on the diff bearings. If its been done without a spreader then the bearings were somewhat worn. My front diff would not move at all so i had to make a spreader to get it out.
yes this does make sense, suppose i've just been lucky, though i've always managed to drift the carrier back in using a block of wood with it's new bearings using the same size shims. the other thing is we always did them on wheelfree ramps so you were standing under the axle and could use quite a long bar if ness, having said that i did the landy on the floor.
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While we are on the subject of salisbury axles, does anyone know if you can change the pinion bearing externally or have you got to take the diff out. If the diff has to come out, do we have to spread the axle or is it possible to grind a bit off, I seem to remember its a tight fit.
Cheers
Bob
hi bob,
like mike says diff carrier has to come out but you can leave the axle in, dunno where all this axle spreader buissiness comes from, yes they can sometimes be tight but if you put a ring spanner on one of the crown wheel bolts to stop the carrier turning then carefully lever it out with a bar they come out fine (well all the ones i've done did, i have to say most of them were fords and i've only done 1 landy ) and you certainly don't want to be grinding anything
cheers
paul
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any luck with the bolt yet?
i,ve had problems with mine over the years at some point around 10 years ago the crank bolt was left loose and it damaged the crank etc i repaired it with belzona a beer can lots of loctite and tightened the bolt up FT with a 3/4" bar. the net result of this exremely effective repair is that whenever i need to change a timing belt the only way i can undo the bolt is to take off the sump and jam the crank with a block of wood! sounds a bit extreme but if your changing the oil anyway it's not much harder than taking the starter off (if you don't mind getting covered in oil
)good liuck paul
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hi mathew'
i think the plug C in the diff indicates an imperial (earlier) diff the ones without a plug in are metric, not sure what the score is with splines but i suppose if you change the whole axle it won't matter anyway.
good luck paul
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Got an odd problem with the 110, when reversing it Judders slightly, first time it did it we played with the Hi/Lo and the Diff locks and it cured it for a while, backed no problem so we know it's not a tooth off a gear.
Did it again today, anyone got any ideas? It's the LT-77 box mated to the 2.5 TD (19J), Standard axles ect... as far as I know with 235/85 A/Ts on.
does it judder once your foot is completly off the clutch? if it's just juddering as your bringing the clutch up it's probably got oil on it. poss rear main or gearbox input shaft seal or as coastcard says mountings. is your wading plug in? could have a build up of oil in the flywheel housing.
my rear main is pishing oil out and my clutch is juddering in reverse but for some reason not all the time (been like that for 2 years but i keep putting it off!)
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If they turn out to be quality branded that would be a bl@@dy good price at £40?? ea. When i replaced mine 2 years ago, they were i think Hepolite, @ £60 ea trade & no VAT, so £80ea is probably right now. Cheap pistons will be suspect material probably with a high expansion & made in China, rather than the correct low expansion so will rattle well when cold, possibly with cracking issues & causing bore cracking from the piston slap as well so best avoided.
you're dead right phill there are some carp pistons out there. we fitted 5 to a 6 cylinder lister, the engineer doing the job refused to fit them at first but there was some issue with supply. so he did it reluctantly. they lasted 3 months, one of them was a melted lump on the end of the con rod
the other 4 looked like they had done 10 000 hours and the one genuine piston was still like new but i'm sure any reputable firm would only fit good uns, and i'd steer clear of buying anything so critical in a britpart box (if indeed they supply pistons) good luck paul
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IMHO britpart stuff ain't that clever i found there stuff seems to barely last a year and my local supplier got so fed up with it that they stock allmakes instead now
mike
dunno about the allmakes stuff as i've not tried it yet but i've fitted plenty britpart stuff to my defender in fact i've invoices going back 15 years for just about everything thats been fitted and i can wholeheartedly agree with everyone who says it's carp. the clutch slave cyl lasted 7 weeks, the headlights were so shoddy i gave them away, the door lock lasted 11 months, the rear wiper motor did not even work, neither did it's replacement, the prop shaft uj's failed on the new prop etc, etc, basicly it's like mike says your lucky if you get the year out of it!!
good luck paul
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Does anyone have experience running one of these on biodiesel? Specifically a B20 mixture? I wanted to put a D2 hyrdronic air heater in, but read in the manual that they don't cover bio above a 5% mixture. Which has me wondering if that is just covering their butt or is it really a problem. I have to think the truckers and such that use these are running bio with them...
hi nas
i wouldnae risk the biodiesel in an ebby as like someone else on this thread said the spares are extortionate. i spoke to someone at eberspacher uk a couple of years ago and he said they go better with a bit of kerrosene mixed in (but don't quote me) so i would guess they would run worse with some bio in (though i could be wrong!
cheers paul
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What do you think about the price of this Eberspacher D2 diesel heater with SILENCER 7 DAY TIMER on ebay? Is it too much?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Eberspacher-D2-diese...1QQcmdZViewItem
hi paul, that ebby on ebay seems to be a good one but i think it would melt your landy as its 2.2kw the D1 and D1LC are 1.7kw (i think) an they are PLENTY hot enough. i paid £284 inc post on eblag for mine a couple of years ago and reckon i got a bargin as it was like new. though a mate of mine got one for £50! i'm sure you could get something cheaper in the summer as it's the ebby season just now.
good luck paul
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I get it. I thought it was something to do with when parked and running independently of the engine. So it is a supplement to te existing heater.
I have a Tdi Defender, and mine is warm and toasty inside. No modification noted. So is it because not all Defender heaters are the same, or is it simply that I am harder than you?
you're obviously much harder than me! i leave mine running all winter, never any ice on my windows! and i don't care how good your heater is it won't warm anyone sat in the back!
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Hello All,
With winter on our doorstep, I've finally got myself an ebby D1LC. I didn't realise they were so big!
So, where should I put it in my 110 CSW, or where have you put yours?
Pictures of your installation would be cool.
First place that springs to mind is under the second row seats but which way should it be pointing?
I don't have any ducting, so it'll be sucking its air from the cab - ok in a breezy 110 I reckon
The cable run to the rheostat is only about a foot long, so I guess I'll have to chop and extend it to mount it somewhere on the dash.
If I buy one of the 7 day programable timer, can it just be plugged into the heater's loom?
Looking forward to your input
hi gromit i've had a D1LC in my csw for a couple of years now and i love it. mounted it infront of the middle 2nd row seat, just behind the cubby box. i took some photo's for someone on another forum but have not figured how post em yet. but i'll have another go for ya.
dunno if thats it. anyway there was a good reason for putting it there and not under the seat but i can't rememember what it was. seat would not tip or fouled exhaust or something. also fitting it where i did means you can duct the small 1" take off into the drivers footwell if you want or even into the engine compartment. fraid i cn't help with the wiring as mine was pre wired to a rheostat with a timer.hope this helps paul
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Cheers Paul thats exactly what i'm after, let me know if you find them and i'll sort you out with some beer tokens
Ralph, Jas, thanks for your help
espescially part numbers. I managed to get hold of a Td5 era rear door striker yesterday so i'll try and persuade that to fit to my 1987 90 with earlier (i think) rear door, if not it looks like i'll be needing the Td5 lock and handle mechanism to go with it.Thanks again
Lewis
thats it lewis, i found em
2 fronts an 2 rears, send me a pm with your add an i'll post em on. there's no weight in em so should nae cost much.cheers paul
every vehicle i've had here has pished in water from the sunroof 
Just remember to remove the grease afterwards!
i have used this method many times with success but it does not seem to work so well on the bronze bushes. works without fail on ball races right enough and for 91p it's not worth the risk.
)
Polybushes.....worth it?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
with you all the way on this one jim, my 110 SW had had genuine red polys on for 70k or more and i foolishly changed em for deflex when i changed my radius arms and like you say total bag of cr4p. there's been allot of sense talked about why to stay with std rubber and i can't argue with it but i do like my gen orange polys