sadoldgit

I'm with OH on this one, reluctantly bought a Shi****t one five years ago as a new one from LR was £350, been fine ever since.

We call them 'turbo inserts' on the ships I've worked on and they're a good fix. didn't realize you could get them for baby turbos.

Good afternoon Exeter :-) I'm no expert but I'd say that turbo was pure feckered, these things spin at phenomenal RPM and your whistle is probably a combination of the disturbed airstream and an out of balance unit. I'd also be a little worried as to where whatever has done the damage has gone. Hope I'm wrong, Paul

Cheers chaps, not had much chance to test the 'Old Girl' since I fitted the new engine. A week of working outside in the pishing rain and lying underneath it in puddles seems to have done my back in. Not even had a chance to get it good and hot to give a good blast but I'll keep my eye on the boost pressure when I do. Thanks, Paul

Just fitted a Disco 200TDi to replace the cracking 19j that JST sold me seven years and 100k ago. Before fitting it I noticed that the wastegate was stiff to operate so freed it off by lots of judicious working and WD40 and hoping that a good dose of heat would sort it out once the engine got some use. What are the symptoms/consequences of a seized closed wastegate and what is the standard boost pressure? Cheers, Paul

Hi Scott, so did you managed to unscrew the male brass fittings from the plastic tank? I was kinda scared of wrecking the plastic end cap. Cheers, Paul

Methinks I've sorted it, The s**tpart ones are M20x1.5 male and the Landy ones 1/2BSP, now some dude on eBlag is selling these adapters for a mere snip at £28 plus £10 postage :rofl: I've just managed to find some for around £3.50 each. Mind you by the time the VAT and postage are added it's still £20 but beats the carp out of £38. Cheers, Paul

Hit a snag with my Disco 200TDi conversion that seems to get the odd mention the in numerous threads (no pun intended) but this one is a little different. My old TD rad has fine threaded female inserts in the tank and a fine thread to BSP male adapter. All the threads on the cooler pipes are BSP both ends. The Disco I got given has male BSP threads soldered into the radiator but the core is pretty finless so I purchased a new S***part rad BTP1823S thinking that I'd eventually get my own unit recored ready for when the S***part one fails after 25 months. However the S***part one has fine threaded male fittings on it, which I guess are the same as the female ones in my old TD rad. Anyone else had this? and if so how did you sort it? Cheers, Paul

Don't mean to hijack this thread peeps but I've just pulled the engine out of the 'Old Girl' and found my intermittent fault and I think Jack's may be something similar. Mine was the thick white wire with red tracer rubbing on the thick yellow wire with black tracer that supplies the heater plugs. Just at the back of the cylinder head, they'd both had their insulation rubbed away and the copper strands were occasionally touching. Methinks the heater motor and starter wires will be doing something similar as the engine shakes to a stop. Good luck, Paul

Hi Scott, that was my first thought too so I fitted a genuine ignition switch which seemed to cure it for a while but now the fault has returned :-( Fitting a Disco 200TDi over the weekend and hoping to find the wiring loom chaffed or damaged somewhere. Methinks that's possibly Jack's problem too. Cheers, Paul

Does an 86 90 have a starter relay?? reason I ask is mine doesn't and I've a bizarre starter fault too. Sometimes my starter operates in the glow plug position, certainly couldn't find a relay when I was looking for the cause of that fault.

I've got one of those too !!!!!!! marvelous things, did you know that Coca Cola is full of the stuff?

Well I never, I've been undoing seized bolts since 1971 and I thought I'd heard of everything but that's a new one one me

Do everything that Scott 90 said plus, get a good chisel and belt the chassis lug and bracket along the length of the bolt, right from the head to the thread. This will deform the chassis lug ever so slightly and release the bolt, also hit the bolt head as opposed to the nut and as Scott says 'tighten as well as loosen', it will come out. Good luck, Paul

Do you have a hand held IR thermometer? if you don't then buy one and you'll wonder how on earth you ever managed without it. You can get a good one for a £100 but a Fleabay one for £20 will do the job just as well. Connect everything up then just look for the warmer wire or fuse.They're invaluable in tracing electrical faults, even before they occur. Cheers, Paul

Glow plug realy stuck?? don't even know if they have one, but it's the only thing that I can think of that would draw that amount of current without blowing a fuse. Good luck, Paul

Aye your dead right there matey, it's worth a whole book on the subject, I'm thinking you must have had a boat at some time There's many a boat been lost by people who didn't take head of electrolytic action. Cheers, Paul

I'd probably do something similar meself but I've never seen alluminium 2nd row door skins for sale, my frames are sound it's just the skins that are dented and I'm a bit of a girl when it comes to my Landy Cheers, Paul

Fraid not it's the different electrical potential between the two metals. Cheers, Paul

On the contrary the reason why they rot so badly is due to the electrolytic action between the steel frame and the alloy panel. If the whole door where ally it would last forever, if the whole door were well treated steel it would last 20 years as it is now my genuine waxoyled from new defender front doors are showing the first signs of electrolytic corrosion after 6 years Cheers, Paul

Cheers for that Antony, never thought of it Paul

Hi Stoney, I know nothing of immobilizers just wanted to congratulate you on the truck Cheers, Paul

My 110 SW rear doors are dented but 'tin worm' free. As aluminium is very difficult to repair I was thinking of fitting these http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-...A1%7C240%3A1318 steel door skins from Craddocks, does anyone know if they are any good? Cheers, Paul

If you are VERY unlucky you will need to compress the casing, I have done many of these axles, mainly on Fords but Land Rovers as well and have never yet needed the tool despite working for a dealer that had it. You remove the caps, place a 19mm combi on a crown wheel bolt to stop the diff turning then carefully pry it out with a bar. To get back in use a block of wood and hammer As far as DIY goes, it is as 'Diff' says doable but not easy. I did mine a couple of years ago and without the correct tools you need a full day for setting it up and allot of shims. AND THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT use nothing other than Timken bearings in the pinnion. Good luck, Paul

bit of a girlie meself r, i keep a pack of baby wipes in the cubby box just for the steering wheel (sad or what)