stobbie
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Posts posted by stobbie
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I should have one of those left. I'll see if I can make it fit...
Do you think the TD5 aircon fans will be up to the job. I would like it to get rid of all the electrics and fit a visco again, I have a new one in stock.. -
I can probably use the 50th anniversery fan shroud.. but it is expensive. How can I be sure that that will help?
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I have a SVX nose, so even more space than with an aircon nose, but there still isn't much space left.
I have used an aftermarket TD5 condensor with a TD5 aircon fan. I could remove the single TD5 fan and maybe fit two push fans behind the grille.
The radiator is in the standard position. Is there a fan shroud availabe for a 3,9 V8 serpentine engine? A 3.5 carb shroud doesn't fit at all..
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Pump impeller was fine.
There is so much heat under the bonnet, the bonnet is around 80 degrees on the outside, almost too hot for the paintwork. The wings as well. The wings had closed wing tops, I have replaced them for mesh versions, there's a lot of heat coming out of there now. Every little bit helps I hope...
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OK, I'll go to the breakers next week..
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Well...
we have compared the new pattern waterpump to an original used one, and it is EXACTLY the same, so we have fitted the pattern one again.
We have fitted the new radiator instead of the slightly bent one, and nog temps seem to have gone done a few degrees.
I can leave it idling now and it stays at around 93 degrees, but it is not as hot outside as a few days ago and I'm not sure how much the weather influences the water temp. I don't think a 5 degrees fall of the outside temp would cause a 5 degrees lower water temp as well?
I would like to see it a bit lower, but if it stays like this it should be OK. Tomorrow I'm going to simulate some slow traffic with a lot of stopping and accelerating, and hope it will be OK with that as well.
I don't think the twin China fans are up to the job, if I take out the fuse ofcourese the temp rises to the red mark, and when I connect them again temps don't come down again. Heater on and aircon fan on will get them to 93 again. And at that temp the twin fans are able to keep it there..
What is a good pulling fan from a breaker that has high capacity and fits a TD radiator nicely?
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Just got back after a whole day in the car, so haven't worked on the V8 myself today...
But our mechanic has fitted another new 19J radiator and tried to fit another water pump, but we did not have any gaskets in stock.. Hopefully tomorrow again.
Top hose is 102 degrees, bottom hose is 87 degrees.
I'll try to sketch a drwaing of the system tomorrow.
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Rad is new.
Yes, we have checked the watertemp,and it goes up tot 101 .
With the visco, but without a shroud it acted the same.
Our customer needs aircon.
All cilinders are firing.
We have removed the valve in the thermostat, this has helped a little, but at idle it still creeps up. Ofcourse it takes a little longer now because it starts a lower temp.
We have fitted a fan switch that turns on at 90 and shuts off at 80. That is to low, but we thought it might help a bit with cooling, but it doesn't.
We haven't blocked the heater hoses to check, but we have made sure there are no airlocks in the heater and the heater stays very very hot. Doesn't help with cooling if i put it on at max.
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I haven't checked now, but when we fitted it lamba was 0,99 at idle..
I'll check again today.. first 5 hours in my car to deliver another car to a customer..
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We have checked the airflow, and it pulls.
Ofcourse there is an aircon condensor in front of the rad and an automatic gearbox cooler as well. So that restricts airflow a bit and heats up the air already.
But I have no other options. I cannot fit bigger fans, there is no space and I cannot move the other coolers.
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Fan on the correct side.
Rad is brand new, but has a little transport damage.
My timing mark was 4 degrees out, so I have advanced my timing with an extra 4 degrees.
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Only now I saw what you meant...
- it looks like two different cores stuck together - the lateral pipes don't match up either side of the vertical joint, and that may be causing a big restriction.
You can see the aircon condensor in front of the rad, that's why it doesn't line up
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O yes..didn't remember that. I'm going to compare it with an old one tomorrow. I do have a new similar one in stock. I have removed a waterpump from a disco today, might try that first tomorrow.
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The TD radiator is rather big, and we use that all the time and never had any problems with that..
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I have noticed that the TDC mark on the pulley is two degrees out, I've advanced the timing a little more and have set it 8 BTC now. It heats up a little slower, and when I drive the car the temp sits in the middel of the gauge, but when left idling it slowly creeps up again and keeps climbing. After ten minutes it hits the red mark. It's then 102 at the top hose and only 15 degrees cooler at the bottom of the rad.
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Belt is routed properly.
CO etc is perfect, no rich running on our gas analyzer.
System is pressurised, no leaks, no steam/bubbles
Using the standard 3,9 14cux ecu of the disco
I don't think there still is an airlock.
No knock sensors, ignition timing spot on
The thermostat has only one valve. I think only the TDI's and the 4.6 have a thermostat with the extra valve?
At this moment I'm removing the waterpump of a 3,9 Disco to try that one. That car has no cooling problems, so the waterpump should be ok.
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We are in the netherlands: www.facebook.com/onetenlandrovers
I don't know the make of the pump, it is a cheap one from Paddocks, I think I will try an airtex one, at least that's cheaper to try than a new rad.
The engine is in this car:
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I have now found out that we have used a pattern stc4378 water pump. Could that have less flow than a genuine one?
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Thanks Snagger, especially for the thermostatic switch tip!
I may order a V8 rad, but with built in oil cooler it is expensive and this is a warranty case for us. So looking to have it sorted with the least costs. We have done lots of 3,9 conversions with a 19J rad without any problems.
I do have a new 19J rad siting here, I may try that one to see if it makes a difference.
I could try a standard V8 rad with a separate oil cooler..
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Maybe, but doesn't affect the engine temp I think..
I might try another new waterpump, don't know if it is an original one or a pattern one
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I cannot find a cowling that fits properly.
The fan switch is not ideal, but at this moment it is only good if it keeps running, so it has a little extra cooling. When the overheating problem has been solved I can start looking for a better switch range.
Without the heart of the thermostat there is a slightly bigger opening than with the thermostat fully open, so it might help cooling a bit. But therefore it is strange that the heater is warm within a minute, it should take ages without a thermostat.
I've filled the cooling system through the heating hoses, that is the highest point in the system. I don't think there is an airlock now..
I've just fitted another new sender, and another gauge with a few wires underneath the hood, to eliminate wiring and it has the same temp as the other one..
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I've left my thermometer at home at the moment :-( . But it is hot. The fan switch switches on at 90 degrees and switches off at 80 degrees again. When I leave it idling the fan comes on and never shuts off again, temp barely goes down. Heater on max and aircon fan on does barely help.
I know the discovery has a much bigger rad. but we have used 19J radiators on most conversions and have never had a problem before.
Is there another rad with oil cooler that is a better fit?
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I'm now going to try with another new sender and old gauge..
Here is the engine bay and the damaged rad:
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I have used a 300tdi Defender sender with a 300tdi gauge, so that should be OK..
3,9 V8 overheats when idling
in International Forum
Posted
it switches on at 90 and off at 80, so stays on all the time. At the moment that is a good thing, but ofcourse I would like to change that again, otherwise the fan will not have a long life I'm afraid..