[Which exhaust? - 200tdi conversion.]

I'm fitting a discovery 200tdi in my early ninety. I'm using the Steve Parker down pipe which says it is suitable for either the turbo diesel exhaust or 200tdi exhaust - with a few mods at the front.

Question is which is my best option?

I've got a galvanised chassis so dont really want to have to weld on any new mounting brackets but will if necessary.

My currrent exhaust exits at the back of the vehicle through a hole in the mudflap mounting plate - personally I think this looks quite neat. I think the later ones exist just behind the rear wheel.

Looking at the parts diagrams the 200tdi seems quite different to earlier exhausts with the rear silencer being mounted in front of the rear cross member i think. What was the reason for this?

I suppose my preference will be to use a 200tdi exhaust but can anyone see any fitting problems?

Thanks

Nick

['T' piece on 200tdi vacuum hose?]

I'm fitting a 200tdi discovery engine in a defender. Just looking at the vacuum hose and half way between the pump and the fitting for the brake servo there is a 't' piece that would normally have a small (2-3mm internal diameter) hose connected to it.

Can someone tell me what this is used for. I cant see a need for it on my conversion so curiosity

more than anything else.

Thanks

Nick

[Body Panel removal TD5]

The long row of bolts that Western refers to I found and absolute pig to remove IIRC when I did mine as you simply cannot get a spanner on them. Doesn't sound that you are replacing the side wing panel but if you are I found it easier to drill holes on the side panel with a hole saw to access the bolts.

When I put the new panel back on I made up captive bolt plates which meant no spanner required to hold the bolts when doing them back up - and importantly if i ever need to remove them again

[Heatshield for bulkhead]

Thanks. Got some heat shield from eBay and some A4 stainless bolts for the manifold

Nick

[Heatshield for bulkhead]

Getting ready to drop a Discovery 200tdi in my 90 using the Steve Parker downpipe.

Can anyone recommend some form of heatshielding to place on the bulkhead?

Also whilst talking about the the S.P. downpipe. I havent offered the egine up yet but measurements I've done suggest the down pipe is only going to be a couple of cm's max from the bulkhead. The S.P. kits supplies some nuts for fitting the downpipe and suggests shortening the studs- but from what I can see it still might be difficult to remove the downpipe once the engine is in. Hopefully I wont have to, but it struck me that removing the studs and using some bolts instead might make things a little easier - good / bad idea?

Nick

[Sheared caliper bleed nipple]

Success with the mig welder. For what its worth though just in case someone else has a similar problem without a mig.

I had this a few years back. I found the tang of a smallish file tapped in gently gripped and got it out - better than extractors

[200 tdi Rear Crankshaft oil seal fitting]

Can I just check a couple of points.

Looking at the official manual, A proper tools is used to set the depth of the seal. Without the tool how far should the oil seal be pressed in. I'm assuming to the bottom of the flywheel housing?

Also the manual shows the plastic installation sleeve being remove from the seal and placed on the end of the crankshaft and then the flywheel housing being offered up to it.

This is correct isnt it?... I dont know why I thought last time i did one the sleeve stayed on the flywheel side of the housing?

Thanks

Nick

[200tdi transplant more questions! - clutch pipe relocation.]

I'm looking at the write ups that have been done on the discovery 200di into a defender and dont really want to challenge what seems to be the standard approach, but thought I would ask.

As the exhaust down pipe is so close to the original route of the clutch pipe (and brake pipe for that matter - i think people must have moved that to one side as well) the approach seems to be to move the clutch pipe around the corner into the tunnel and by the starter motor. You cant move it too far around as a lip higher up the bulkhead is going to make it a bit messy.

More importantly though. The discovery engine came with the heatshield over the start motor. I'd like to retain it, but with the clutch pipe bracket mounted where most are putting it I cant see its possible. Also I imagine changing the flexible hose if it is necessary is going to be a pig with the starter motor in place simply as it will be difficult to get to the unions.

Whats going through my mind - why not have a slighly longer flexible pipe made up and mount it higher up on the bulkhead itself? I guess you wouldnt want to long of pipe as you would decrease the hydraulic efficiency?

Final question, my existing clutch pipe seems to be original and made of steel. Still seems in good condition. If i alter it any tips on bending without damaging. I've got a bending tool but not used it on steel before and the bends arnt very tight.

Thanks

Nick

[Air Filter arrangement for a Discovery 200 tdi into a Defender?]

Thanks chaps.. seems a common theme to put it where the air con would go.

A couple of questions.

Maverik / Baz. Where is the air intake on your vehicles? Do you have an intake on the drivers side wing? I dont currenly have one.

Maverik. In your construction photos of the mounting - what filter and the actual mounting on top of the ali plate are you using - is this from the donor discover? Also I dont suppose you made a plan of the dimension. I imagine it might be quite popular!

[‘T’ seals and engine block to flywheel housing gasket]

Thanks Ralph. I'm probably going to pop down to LRP tomorrow morning. More than happy to come to you. I will send a pm.

Nick

[Air Filter arrangement for a Discovery 200 tdi into a Defender?]

Just prepping for my transplant!

Now that so many conversions have been done, just wanted to ask whether there is a preferred approach to the routing of ducting and mounting of the air filter.

If anyone has any photos i’d be grateful

Also whilst on the subject of air... I’ve purchased the Steve Parker Inter cooler plumbing kit.

Reading the Glencoyne 200tdi transplant info though, it recommends ‘clocking the turbo’ as the ducting gets too close to the inner wing. Is this worth doing? I imagine if I did go this way it might through out some of the Steve P. hoses though.

Thanks

Nick

[‘T’ seals and engine block to flywheel housing gasket]

Thanks Ralph and Jim,

I think I will let sleeping dogs lie then.

A follow up question. The old flywheel to engine gasket appears to have additional sealant lines around the crank area. The replacement gasket I have is a britpart one which does not have this.

Is it best to dry fit or complement the gasket with some sealant. I think I’ve seen RTV mentioned – or is it worth trying to pick up a genuine one.

Thanks

Nick

[‘T’ seals and engine block to flywheel housing gasket]

Just in the process of preparing a Discovery 200tdi to drop into my early 90.

I’ve purchased some of the conversion bits and pieces, and included are the bearing end cap ‘t’ seals.

The whole reason I’m doing the conversion is that I have a failed rear crankshaft oil seal in my current 2.5na so I’m really keen to avoid all the fuss again so I’m certainly going to make sure I fit a new OEM crankshaft seal.

I wasn’t however expecting to drop the sump and ladder frame to fit new T seals. Is this a necessary step - are they known to be problematic?

Related to this. What I’m struggling to understand is that even if the T seals did leak – would the flywheel to engine block gasket (Err1440) not back these up to prevent leaks?

Thanks

Nick

[New Chassis - Q plate?]

Hi

Just wonder if anyone has been in a similar position and can comment :-

Finally got close enough to completing my ninety rebuild to start completing the registration paper work.

Backround is that the vehicle is essentially standard components - engine, gearbox, transfer box, axles, but has been built on a new Richards chassis.

Essentially well within the dlva points scheme and no issue from that perspective.

My local DVLA office have issued me with a chassis number to have stamped on the Chassis, but have warned that DVLA Swansea might not allow me to keep my original registration mark simply because of the fact that the chassis is not a genuine Land Rover part.

People have commented that as I have destroyed my old chassis I should have simply transfered my original chassis number to the new chassis and said nothing more, but I've been concious to do things properly and by the book so would be disappointed if my honesty get the better of me.

Bottom line - anyone else got a Richards chassis and follwed the same process as me? What was the result?

Many thanks

Nick

[Roof Rack flooring.]

I've just picked up a Brownchurch rack for my 90.

I'd like to fit a flat floor in it. Can I have some recommedation on what products are available. Preferably something fairly light and weatherproof. Non-slip as well.

I guess marine ply is one option but I imagine there's probably something a bit more professional out there.

thanks

Nick.

[Panhard rod length?]

as you were informed on the previous thread, there is only one panhard rod length for all 90/110/ disco/ RRclassics, and yes it is about 82.2 cm c/c

I dont think I was suggesting that there were differenet lengths or rods. For my own sanity I just wanted to a confimed lenth, which you have done.

I started a new thread as I didn't want people to have to wade right down through a long thread to see what i had updated.

What still interest me is that whilst plenty of people will confirm that the front axle is offset by up to an inch no-one if i recall has stated a specifc reason why this is. Does anyone know?

With regard my particular issue, having looked at another vehcile the same age as mine that axle is offset as well so I dont think I have a problem, but I personally I want to understand why this is 'by design' because now that I have replaced my front springs it is a real struggle to push the chassis across to get the panhard bolt is when refitting it. I've seen other on here saying the same - indeed there is even a thread in the tech forum about replacing the bushes that states you have to push the chassis across.

When the old springs were fitted the panhard rod could be fitted easily, so this leads me to believe that over time or millage the springs are 'forced' to adapt this off-centre position.

For what my simple observation are worth I personally cannot see why it is nessary to force the axle over to this extent, and it seems to me that 'by design' the panhard rod is 2cm too long -

Interesting thing is that this seems to be something that is apparent on the older vehicles. Looking along a line of new defenders at my local dealer these dont seem to be offset - although I have'nt measured it.

So question still is. What is the reason the axle is offset?

Unless someone can give me a specifc reason - its an adjustable panhard rod for me.

[Panhard rod length?]

Would someone be able to confirm the distance between bush centres ( or bolt centres if its fitted) of the panhard rod on their 90.

Mine is 82.2cm and having now repalced front springs and radius arm bushes am conviinced that the standard panhard rod is too long.

I think I'm going to fit an adjustable rod!

rgds

Nick

[Standard Spring replacement]

Thanks Steve,

I was under the impression that it would be normal to fit the nrc9448 on the drivers side and the nrc9449 on the passenger side, rather than matching fronts and rears???

rgds

nick

[Standard Spring replacement]

I've decided for peace of mind (see my other recent thread on front axle off centre problems!!!) to changes the radius arm bushes and coil springs.

The vehicle, 90 with 2.5na is all standard apart from superwinch x9 and wincch bumper fitted.

I'm going to use OEM bushes, but can i have some advice on replacement springs please. I dont want any significant lift, but wonder whether the extra weight on the front because of the winch (which isn't a huge weight) warrants heavy duty springs.

What would be a good combination of front and rears?

Also any recommendation on after market springs? Are the Britpart 'yellows' from the likes of paddocks ok?

Should also mentiion the vehicle isn't going to be used heavily of road.

Thanks

Nick

[Whats forcing my axles off centre??]

Thanks Mark, yes I'm afraid we checked the wheels. They are ok.

A good indication that its the axle / suspention / chassis at fault is that I cant get my fingers in between the front spring and chassis on the drivers side, but on passenger side I can get my whole hand in!

rgds

Nick

[Whats forcing my axles off centre??]

Did'nt get many replies to my last update - guess it may have been a bit long winded so I'll try to keep this a bit sorter.

Further dabbling has revealed that even with the panhard rod and drag links disconnected the axle is sitting off centre to the chassis when at rest - I can obviously move it from side to side.

I can't help feeling that this can now only be down to dodgy spring(s) and radius arm bushes.

I think I will replace the bushes with OEM compoents for the moment, but can I have some advice on springs.

Vehicle has 2.5nad with x9 superwinch and winch bumper on the front. No heavy off-road use planned at the moment.

I dont want to go for a lift at this stage, so are the aftermarket springs such as the Britpart yellows ok?

Bearing in mind the slightly heavier front end with the winch, should I put heavy duty on the front and leave rears as they are; or keep standard all round.

thanks

Nick

[Whats forcing my axles off centre??]

Chaps, thanks for all the comments

Ralph.. i think paul may be pickiing up and following on fridgefreezers commens about the Panhard rod mount (NTC9462/ NTC9461) rather than the rod itself, and suggesting I might have a LHD one fitted. I have'nt thought this through yet, but dont think that would fit??.

In hindsight I wish i had had observed the front axle offset on the vehicle before rebuilting the vehicle on the new chassis. Wish I'd done some dimensional checks on the new chassis as well before the build up - but i've leart a lot since then.

ref FridgeFreezers comments: Thanks for directing me to the chassis checks section. I was aware of the general chassis dimensions being listed but had overlooked the bit for checking a b uilt up vehicle. My problem is my working conditions wnot let me do this at the mo - outside on an uneven hardcore surface. Ohh for a decent workshop - especailly with the weather. I do take yyour point though - for piece of mind I may need to arrange to do these checks - although I would hope that a new chassis would be ok. Anyone aware of a new galv chassis being out before.

Dont know much about the history of the vehicle before i got it. It was a heavily used farm vehicle - but I've got nothing to suggest that the pandard rod, mount etc are not the originals.

Picking up on the general consensus that the front axle only has an offset... and as far as i can see the only thing that causes this is the panhard rod - Chassis and axle mounting are all symetrical. If this is true, I'm not sure I can see how the string method for testing tracking is possible - as all vehicles no matter how bad tolerances in other areas are going to have the 1" offset quoted for the front axle introduced by the panhard rod.

Also if there is a genuine offset on the front axle can anyone explain the reason why as I'm not sure I can see why it needs to be there?

LRFaarmer, thanks for the link to the paddocks adjustable bar - I wasn't aware of that one. It might come to that- Dont suppose you know specifications ie max min length - I imagine its designed with a lift in mind - which if I'm right will naturaly push the axle to the drivers side. I obviously need to do the opposite.

One final thought - I may be worrying about this problem unduly - and specifically as I dont want the typres sticking out past the arches for the first MOT of SVA inspecction if I needed.

With regard to suspesion and steering geometry, I've measured the distance between the front and rear axle centre hubs on both sides and they are exactly the same to the millimetre. Therefor am I right is saying that assuming front tracking is accurate - it doesnt actually matter that the front alxe is offset ad the front and rear tyres run in a slightly different track???

Sorry for such a long mesage

Nick

[Whats forcing my axles off centre??]

Just thought I would raise this thread to the top of the pile again as I would be grateful of any further discussion on this one - its a cloud hanging over me at the mo - and not just because of the weather!!!

Ralph visited and I told him I was hoping to have the vehicle ready for mot in about 2 weeks!!! - that was a month ago and I havent managed to do any work on the vehicle because of work and the rubbish weather. Anyway back to the problem.

When Ralph visited we couldn't see anything immediately wrong, but Ralph can confirm the front axle does seem to be unusually off centre. We checked his vehicle as a mater of interest but whilst there was a slight indication of the axle being off centre, nothing to the extend of mine.

I've been dabbling further this evening and would like to pick up on something FridgeFreezer mentioned earlier in the thread - that he thought all coilers front axles are off centre. Did he mean that both front and rear are off centre, but only mentioned the front because that was specifc to my original enquiry.

Others have also mention it but refered to both axles.

My assumption is that it must be both axles. The reason I say this is because surely if they didint the front and rear tyres would not run in the same track, and the string trick for checking tracking would not be possible.

Unfortunately if my statement is true this only confirms my problem . If I set steering in straight ahead position and use the string test, the drivers tyre edge comes is about 1" in from the string line. On passenger side tyre it is about 1" out from the string line.

The other thing to bear in mind is something I raised at the beginning of the thread that when looking under the vehicle the radius arms appear to be twisting in their front bushes slighlty, but what is really apparent is that they are not running parallel to chassis rails, again pulling to the passenger side.

I decided to disconnect the drag link and panhard rod this evening. None of the bolts were under any tension and the axle didn't centre. However if i then gently push the body and chassis over by about an inch the twist in the radius arms goes. It is almost as if I need a panhard rod that is an inch shorter or the wrong one is fitted, but I cant see that this would be possible as I think there is only one part number listed.

Looking around I see that it is possible to get adjustable panhard rods, but don't think I ought to be even considering this yet until I know what is causing the problem on a standard vehicle.

Any more thoughts on how I can troubleshoot this problem?

Thanks

Nick

[Whats forcing my axles off centre??]

Ralph,

Certainly would be glad of your opinion if its not to much trouble.

I'll send you a PM

Thanks

Nick

[Whats forcing my axles off centre??]

Thanks for all the comments chaps.

Re Diesel Jims' comments. I'm current using the original springs that have done 120K miles. Engine is also original 2.5na 12j. Only thing non standard is an X9 winch and winch bumper which is adding a bit of weight.. but problem doesnt seem to get any worse with another 15 stone!! standing on the front bumper.

Whilst I have'nt set tracking correctly yet, I've used Ralphs suggestion (in another thread) of using string around vehicle to check tracking, and this would seem to confirm that axle is over a bit further than it should be.

Truth of the mater is that my working conditions are not ideal at the mo because I cant work or a good flat hardstanding, and whilst I'm not on the side of a slope the uneven ground probably isnt helping diagnose the problem.

Nick