nickr

Ok ... I've checked rear axle and that is fine. Straight-edge across sidewalls of the tyres shows them to be exactly flush with eyebrows. - The vehicle is fitted with 265/75 BFGs on modualrs so they come out pretty much as far as is legal. On the fronts however its more than I thought would be intended as part of design. Straight edge on driver wheel is just recessed back under arch by about 0.25"... but the passengers wheel is 2" out past the eyebrow. Well more than I think you could justify road legal. I just can see this being normal. Regards Nick

Having spent many years on my 90 rebuild I'm nearing completion, but am currently extremely worried!!! Rebuild has been done on a new galvanised chassis from one of the two main suppliers. Wont say which as I'm not suggesting a problem with the chassis - yet!! Both axles (apparent from the tyres) appear to be off centre and towards the passenger side. Rear does'nt seem to be too bad and might be attributable to something minor but the front is clearly worse. I haven't been able to make any specific measurements yet but as an example, where the radius arm follows the chassis rail, there is a gap of just under 2cm between radius arm and anti-role bar mount (a.r. bar not fitted) on the drivers side but over 4cm on the passengers. This exagerated by the time it get to the line of the axle. I would guestimate the axle is off centre by about 5-6cms!!!! Springs fitted are the originals , as being new to landrovers when starting the build wanted a standard spec vehicle running before i made any mods. Any suggestions on how I start to diagnose what is going on. Would disconnecting the panhard rod be a good start to see if this is forcing things over. I guess jacking up by the chassis so there is no weight on the suspension might reveal something as well. I dont think I can bear the thought of entertaining an inaccuracy in the chassis!!!! Any help greatfully received!!! Thanks Nick

Thanks chaps, I'm still a bit confused about how many offsets are available. As well as White90 and others refering to 4.25" & 4.5" , browsing around, Scorpion refer to modulars having a 0 offset, and Devon 4x4 as a +8. Regards Nick

I'm looking to get a set of modulars for my early ninety. I've got a set of part worn 265 x 75 AT BFG's which i wan to re use. I've read on other threads that these dont pair too well with Modulars when used heavily off road, but with my usage this should'nt be a problem. Once worn out I'll probably go the 255 route which seems to be a recommended option. My question is though, do I need to be careful with different offsets. Are modulars for a defender different to a discovery for example. Whats the prefered offset for this setup?. Also can anyone recommend a supplier? Most of the main suppliers do them! Thanks Nick

Thanks Ralph, thats an idea, i've got some spare pipe lagging somewhere in my shed. Just fitted some self adjusting lap belts as well. Regards Nick

I've got a set of side facing, lift up seats for my early ninety. It's not a county model however, so no headlining or side interior panels fitted , - although I have fitted side windows. I'm a little consious however that in an accident wiithout a headlining its likely you would hit your head on the roof or on the flange where the roof fixes to the side panels. Its not likely that the side seats will get much use, but still want to be safe. Anyone got a similar? Whats the Insurance / MOT position on this? Thanks Nick.

Ralph, Thanks for the second set of diagrams, they have helped clear things up. Sorry for the delay in replying - have been busy at work and my home pc managed to get infected with malware making it unusable and needed rebuilting - not a very good example for someone who works in IT !!! Anyway I can now report, that to quote someone elses word in another thread somewhere " I have now made a pact with the devil as I have a working rear wiper!!" In fact I think I can now report that I have a 1985 ninety with all electrical circuits working - I probably did'nt ought to speak too soon!!! Thanks Nick

Thanks Ralph, Those diagrams are certainly helping things. I've had a closer look and on my original post i said the 2 pin connector was red and a black, the red is actually the red/ green so corresponds to the 300tdi diagram and the connector c388-2. I'm therefore assuming that c079 refers to the 3 pin connector, but question now which pins correspond to c079-1 (bown/light green), c079-2 (green) and c079-3 (black). Iv'e taken off the cover of the motors and its not possilbe to see whats going on mechaincally to try to work it out. regards nick

Can someone tell me what each pin connection is for the rear wiper motor on a later defender (1995 onwards i think). The part number is AMR3676 and the motor has 2 wiring connectors with a total of 5 pins. The connector behind the motor is 2 pin and I have the existing connector which has a red and black wire, so I'm assuming this is the main power and earth. The connector at the top has 3 pins, I'm assuming these may control park and speed, but as i dont have the original loom I dont have any clues to the connecttions. I'd be grateful if someone could confirm for me please. Thanks Nick

Thanks Ralph. I think I'm going to have to do some closer examination this weekend to understand the issue properly and how much clearence is required. What I'm not entirely sure of at this stage is why all the discussion normally revolves around the rear's, because these seem to be fitting fine on the drums - only issue is that the centre caps wont fit because of hub dust caps. Am I missing something relating to the rears? It's the front that seems to be the problems and is as described in the link that you sent me, where there is an interference fit between the wheel and hub. When I was reassebling the hub I was thinking about doing exactly what is decribed but instead of filing (orange bit in drawing) wondered whether I could get a fraction (which is all it seems to be!!) removed by someone with a lathe.. I also wondered whether it was possible to get a slightly thinner drive flange to deal with the fouling (bit in yellow) of the bolt heads. Is that an option??? Regarding other wheel options, should I take it that from the lack of other replies that there isn't much available in the alloy market?? Nick

Way back in the early rebuild stage of my ninety I naively bought what were advertised as a set of Firesyle alloys, and what I thought were the Non-LR replica's that would fit a drum braked ninety. Why I didn't question it at the time I don't know but they were in actual fact genuine LR Freestyle wheels and I think from the part no (ANR1689) from a Discovery. I'm now considering my options and whilst I think I could use these wheels if I fitted spacers, I'm reluctant to go down this route because the jury seems to be out on Spacers. I also want to keep what the vehicle legal - and I think the existing alloys with BFG 265/16 would protrude too far out past the arches. I've spent alot of time and effort on the rebuilt, and the vehicle is looking nice so whilst I dont want to spend money am still considering a new set of wheels and if possible alloys. That said I dont want to make any more mistakes. Can people let me know of any alloys that they know will definately fit a drum braked model. There seem to be a number of aftermarket wheels out there, but with different information on what will fit. I'm particularly interested in the 'Boost' style and I think Compomotive do a replica. Anyone got any of these? I also want to keep turning circle reasonable, so did I ought to go for 235 tyres instead of 265....or consider wheels with a greater offset - looking the mags, Silverline are offering a new wheel (Sport) with at least a couple of offset options. Finally any recommendation of a good company to talk to / supply. My list so far of possible contenders:- Famous Four Simmonites Silverline Nene Valley 4Site4x4 Craddocks Paddocks. I should also mention that the vehicle is not planned to be doing any hard off-road work at this stage. Thanks for any advice you can give Nick PS ...please dont suggest any axle changes as I will be devorced if the thing isn't finished soon!!!

Thanks Jim, Just been out and done it - I'm fitting a complete breather kit and manifold, so had plenty of pipe so brought it right back to where the radius arm attaches to the chassis. Thats one more job ticked off the list for the finished vehicle.... Nick

Can some describe the normal route that the the front axle breather pipe takes? There wasn't one present when I bought the vehicle. The rear one I routed up across the A frame to reduce the effect of the axle travel on the breather pipe, but what is considered the best route for the front one? Thanks Nick

Can anyone recommend a supplier for a new front carpet set. Couldn't find anything on Craddocks. Paddocks seem to have something for about £22. Thanks Nick

I need to remove the flange on the front output of the transfer box to replace the captive propshaft bolts. Can anyone give me some tips before doing the job? - How to hold the flange whilst undoing the tight centre nut? - Unless anyone has any better ideas I was think of using a length of bar with a couple of holes drilled in to slip over a couple of the prop shaft bolts. - Also my assumption is that the centre nut is the standard thread ie anticlockwise to undo. Presumably once the nut is undone the flange slips off easily?? - no pullers !! ?? Thanks Nick

Thanks for all the replies to this thread guys with loads of good ideas. As predicted, the following night when I tried again, everything went fine. I did things in the normal manner, lower seal, piston then the wiper seal and retainer together using the piston as a guide. Used a G clamp ,and a very nice round disk of 5mm steel plate, which incidently was the waste product from cutting the winch bumber to install 2 swivel recovery eyes. It is perfect size, and is now going to remain as a special tool! I think if I could identify anything that caused my problem initially it would be the use of the G clamp. 3 of the cylinders are easy to do because the outside of the caliper is flat. The 4th is more difficult because of the casting of the brake pipe port. This caused the clamp to skew, and I think caused the problem. I mounted a flat piece of 4x1 wood in the jaw of the workmate, which can be used to push the caliper against and provides a flat surface for the clamp. Also I took the advice to get the OEM seal kit. The kits I had before where not Britart but Karson??? i think from Paddocks. As a matter of interest I thought I would measure the thickness of the metal retainers as the Karson and OEM looked pretty much identical. It actually turned out that the Karson ones were marginally (0.02mm)thicker!! - I used a micrometer - sad I know!!! That said the OEM rubber seals looked better. thanks again Nick

Thanks Les... looks like I'm doing everything right. Hopefully it one of those jobs that inexplainable proves to be a pain one day, then after a nights sleep goes ok the next day. Ralph, don't know if you are online, but would you know if it is likely that Bob at LRP carries stock of the repair kits.. (aeu1547). My guess is he does so I think I'll probably be relieving him of a few kits today !! Regards Nick

Having just destroyed 4 retaining rings in one swoop on just one piston, just wondered if anyone as any little tricks on getting the damn things in without wrecking them. I think I read on another post somewhere that someone recommended getting serveral repair kits because of the failure rate getting the retainiers in - now I see why. First three pistons went fine , but the last one in the caliper is causing a real problem and i've already checked for bore damage which might cause it to distort when going in. I'm even doing it similar to that shown in the dender repair manual, using a g clamp and metal disk to pull it in evenly. One though it did have is to try putting them in before the piston is in the bore??? Any thoughts / tips Thanks Nick

Thanks Chaps thats confirmed for me, I'll used brake fluid.. I think when Les mentioned Meths, he is refering to the cleaning the calipers bores only, not the seals... then a nice dry out. Thanks once again..... off out to the garage. Nick

I'm just replacing the pistons and seals in my front calipers and was keen to get it done tonight. Defender workshop manual refers to using Brake Lubricant when reassembling so I went to get some today and couldn't get any in the 3 local shops / motor factors. Haynes manual etc just states to coat the seals in brake fluid before re-assembly. Am I just being a bit to fussy ... or is there genunie benefit for using the proper lubricant. Thanks Nick

I'm overhauling my front swivels and was rather nervous of rounding off the bi-hex bolts holding the Swivel Ball to the Axle. I took my time and used a good spanner and everything went ok. Now that I'm ready to put things back together, I'm wondering whether to use the orignal bolts or replace them. If I replace them is it possible to get a hex bolt alternative rather than the Bi-Hex (p.n. TYG100590) Also, is there a good technical reason why Bi-Hex is used in a place so prone to muck and hence rust! Regards Nick

Can someone confirm for me the correct depth for the inner and outer seals on my rear drum braked axles (22S08712B)? Looking at the old seals the Inner Seal is almost flush with the outer surface of the hub and the Outer Seal seems to be about 8 to 9mm recessesed to the outer surface. Looking at the manuals.... Haynes Serverice manual just says put new seals to the same depth as originals... and does mention different axles numbers. Haynes Restoration manual... suggests 4.8 to 5.3mm for both seals but again doesnt mention different axles. The official Land Rover workshop manuals refers to the same 4.8 to 5.3mm for early axles, but the section for later axles (from 22S08284B) just say use the special tools and doesn't give a depth. My assumtion is that the later axle is also 4.8 to 5.3mm as well? Also does anyone know if it is easy to get hold of the server tool LST550-5. If it wasn't that expensive it would make things easier. - Many thanks Nick

When I did this, rather than cutting the wing off, I got a hole saw and cut holes to gain access to the bolts. then When I put the new outer wing on, I took time to make up some captive bolts using a bit of thin sheet, m8 bolts and welded em together. Did them in stainless, so I can now remove the outer wing quite easily. Nick

Bruce, When you say new.... do you mean new... or just new to you? If you have a bonnet the same as mine (1986) (I was the original poster on the other similiar thread), you probably have 4 rectangular plates which have rubber buffer pads riveted to them. If this is the case and you want to install the safety catch you will need to remove the second one in from the right (looking from the front). Once the plate is removed the catch is held in place by 3 bolts which screw into 'nutserts' which need to be set into the bonnet. You will need to mark holes and drill accurately with the correct size drill for the nutsert. I'm at work at the mo... but I can post the part no of the nutsert if what I have said so far is appropriate to your bonnet. Regards Nick

Thanks Ralph Nick