tuko
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Posts posted by tuko
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The entire brake hydraulic system has been renewed for like items ( Defender) with only the brake booster coming from a Disco 1.
I have had success with the Disco 1 booster on the series hybrid which has Defender axles/ brake components therefore the attempt to use the same booster on the Defender. At this point I cannot say that it does not work because it appears more than likely that it is defective rather than not being up to the task. Also LR later in the life of the Defender did change from the single diaphragm booster to the dual diaphragm, so knowing that I will want to "upgrade" to the later booster.
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Getting back to this old thread to report the process to this point. A few weeks ago I got the Defender out of winter storage and the immediate day afterwards I had the front axle off and the replacement unit in place.
The replacement axle is another 110 axle but with a GL weld on diff pan and Nige's axle truss kit. The main reason for the changed axle is because it has the mounts for a anti roll bar, something that is being added at the same time with the brakes.
On to the brakes, nearly everything replaced on the front to accommodate the conversion to ventilated discs plus I went with EBC green stuff pads as recommended from so many here.
Bleeding process took some time as there was an air lock to the rear. Eventually we got the air out, and we had a firm pedal. But this is where I ran into another issue, with no power assist the pedal was firm as a rock but once you started the Defender the pedal faded to the floor. On its test drive in town, the Defender was outright dangerous to drive with the pedal going to the floor continuously. This had me scratching my head for a bit, with me only thinking that the replacement double diaphragm booster from the Disco 1 that I bought "used" was not as it should be.
So, I removed it and put the original pancake booster back in.
NOW we are talking!
Finally I have the brakes that I have been looking for, firm pedal and the Defender giving me the confidence that I have brakes. With the camping gear in the Defender and it weighing more than stock, the brakes take immediately and scubs off the speed quickly, far better than this Defender performed with its original disc/drum setup.
Now I'm finally happy with the brakes on the Defender, with nearly everything replaced it should last for some time but I still would like a double diaphragm booster in the future, not a used unit though.
Todd.
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Thanks for the offer but for the time being I'm going to limit me to the options that I have been researching locally, as a matter of fact I have already ordered the UP5.0 vacuum pump from the Dodge Ram.
Todd.
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The other option that was discussed earlier still has my interest to which I've read more about. The mechanical vacuum pump delete replacing it with an electric vacuum pump. The favorite replacement unit seems to be the UP28 but I have read the UP30 and the UP5.0 are better pumps from Bosch.
The above image is the UP5.0 from a Dodge Ram. With an adjustable vacuum pressure switch and an one way valve, this is another viable option with the present booster.
All are interesting and viable options that I may consider in the future for the Defender after I've converted the front brakes to ventilated discs.
Todd.
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14 hours ago, elbekko said:
I was happy with the EBCs on my Classic, I think on the P38 I've just been running the stock stuff, which also work well enough considering the rest of the system needs a bit of work.
I'm not sure you'll notice much difference between the good brands. Your limits will be overall system pressure, piston size and disc heat capacity.
A while back I posted about the iBooster, an electric brake booster that apparently gives a lot of assist. That might be worth looking into?
Both you and Tobias have made reference to the iBooster. To be honest I didn't look into it till this evening and an interesting topic to say the least.
Clearly available here, being a complete package it eliminates a lot of head scratching other than the electrics.
I like the idea of getting rid of the leaky mechanical pump therefore I'll do some home work on this subject. Maybe a future project on the Defender. 🤔
Todd.
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Guys, I can't say thank you enough.
The clear choice by many is EBC green stuff. To my surprise I can buy them off the shelf locally at a good price. ( DP6708 and DP61033 )
Todd.
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Reviving an old post I started a while back. During the past few months I've compiled a list of part numbers that will be replacing the exciting front brakes on the Defender. From the last time writing the TRV brake master cylinder has been on a shelf waiting while the Defender has been and still is in winter storage. The Brembo reman. brake calipers arrived friday, the parts on the third shipment are the drilled/grooved vented front discs and stainless steel brake lines which are scheduled to be delivered tomorrow.
The last bit of parts that I need are the brake pads and this is where I'm unsure what to order, therefore the questions now.
Bear in mind my driving and the roads that I travel here in the nordic region and with the Defender hoovering around the 3000kg all the time, I'm thinking that a brake pad with a higher clamping efficiency and higher operating temperature would suit me better but the problem that I've ran into so far is it's a jungle to find any detailed information from the manufacturers ie. Mintex or Brembo. I have been favoring Brembo parts for the Defender but I was wondering about "yellow stuff" brake pads for the Defender as they do have information that does show that they meet my requirements. I also saw that Lof offers pads with the requirements that I'm out for but wondering if they are just a rebrand of a known product or specifically made to his specifications ? OR is there another brand name that I should look at while I'm trying to figure this out.Those of you who have a heavier Defender, tow and have over your vehicles lifetime did an upgrade to your brakes, what is your preferred brake pads that have served you well or excided your expectations? Based on your tips/suggestions/recommendations I'll make up my mind and place the final order.
Thanks,
Todd. -
Lawrence,
As you wrote the 110 is primarily used for road, so in my opinion I can't see why you can't use the trayback rear axle. The later years LR did change to Rover type rear axle on the 110. Your axle with the upgrades should be well up to the job.
There is a post in this section of the rear axle swap I did on my 110, but I used a Salisbury axle that was disc brake. With that said, I did and still have in reserve a disco 300tdi rear axle with a locker if I decide to go further with the 110.
Todd.
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Echoing the above comments, original springs will give the best results. If a lift or a slight lift is wanted then spacers is the best solution. I was using Terrafirma gas shocks but wasn't really impressed with them therefore changed to Koni's on the Defender and they made a real difference comfort wise.
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2 hours ago, Stellaghost said:
I'm pretty sure it is a small spring loaded pin, it should just push in and then you can draw it off
Regards Stephen
exactly that, sometimes they are rusted so a drop of WD40 will get it moving.
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1 hour ago, Retroanaconda said:
They stay live for a short period after startup to help with combustion in the cold cylinders. All working as designed.
thank you!
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In December i helped a friend with installing a glow plug relay setup into his Defender which was converted to a 200TDI in Holland about 10 years ago. When the motor conversion was done, they simply had the glow plugs wired through the ignition when in the on position. So fast forward to today we wired it like a 300tdi as that is where all the parts came from and I'm most familiar with. The setup works fine with the new glow plugs.
The question that I have for anyone who may know, as I can't answer the question and honestly don't think it's anything to worry about, but Per has been checking the power usage when he turns the keys and wondered why and if it affects anything that the glow plug relay is still activated for approx 10 sec after the engine is started. The Defender starts better with the glow plug relay setup and is properly wired according to the so many diagrams here and on the interweb but Per is questioning why there is still power at the relay for a few sec's after startup?
Like I said I can't answer the question but on the other hand I don't see it as any problem, is there anyone that could expand on this question or provide confirmation that it's nothing to over think or worry about?
Thanks in advance,
Todd.
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It sucks that the sun goes down the same time I finish work, finally today I was out with the series to fix the wipers and shorting that I have been having with them.
Replaced the wiper motor, replaced the switch with the universal one I have from eBay.
Using the above diagram I wired in a 5 pin relay and everything works including "park".
The wipers now seem to have a bit more life in them compared to the old ones and if I can say that with a 1980 Series.
Also, it starts far more better than previously.
Todd.
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On 11/19/2023 at 1:29 AM, FridgeFreezer said:
Because I just happened across it on eBay, the not-quite-right lamp+horn switch being sold as a 2-speed + wash wiper switch is:
As seen here:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/394879795232
And a hundred other eBay sellers for under a tenner including postage.
If my military light switch dies I could use this as it's replacement. As a matter of fact it would be alright in the series to.
Thanks FF.
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On 10/30/2023 at 8:05 AM, miketomcat said:
We have the waeco version and I can confirm it draws 3.5amps when running.
Mike
I too have the Dometic CFX35 and also can confirm that it's draws no more than 3.5Amps. With the insulated cover, it does run half as much but I've never ran into any issues with a dead battery.
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I some years ago changed over to a separate momentum button for the washer function but retained the original switch. Don't remember why.
As for the wiper motor, the rubber plug for the wires into the motor itself, is melted but externally there no damage to the wires.
I've seen on YouTube using a 5 pin relay and some fancy wiring that the universal wiper switch can park, so that is a possibility.
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8 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
I've struggled to find any switch for Series wipers that allows 2-speeds and washers and self parking, can't quite tell from the diagrams above but I suspect it's very easy to get it wired up in such a way that it just blows the fuse as the parking switch's job is to short-circuit the motor windings to ground when you turn the wipers off, so it's the point at which a fused live wire gets short-circuited to ground if your wiring is not quite as expected.
There are cheap Durite headlamp switches being sold as 2-speed wiper switches by people who should know better (and for a LOT of money) that almost-but-not-quite do the job but can't really do it without adding a changeover relay and being careful about how you wire it all up. It's what's fitted to the 109 right now and it p*** me off.
@FF,
thnks for explaining how the park works, I too find it a bit confusing. The switch that I have does not have wash so the wiring diagram is pretty clear to figure out. My son has a 1963 beetle and told me "his car has no park, don't worry about it just time your stop". I can do that. I ordered a new wiper motor this morning, it should give me the time to get out to the Series in between the rain to install a relay for the wipers.
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I'll start this off with as much info as possible.
Last fall while on a camping trip in Northern Sweden on the wilderness road "Vilmarksvägen", we drove through a downpour for about an hour. The day immediately after the Series starting having power issues, sometimes not enough power to start, with me resorting to coupling the house battery to get it to start. Jumping over a lot here, I had the wrong assumptions thinking it was the main battery, start motor, all the wires for the starting system plus grounds. If you assumed that I foolishly spent a bundle replacing the mentioned parts, you'll be correct. One time earlier this year, the wiper switch began smoking, yes it was cooking itself. Quick thinking I killed the power to the Series then removed the switch. Seeing the crazy price for them I decided to rebuild it. Up to now it still works fine.
Having the Defender I simply drove that, ignoring the Series and it's problem. But now I've decided that I have to get to the root of the problem.
Reading a few posts here, I decided to simply replace the wiper switch with an universal switch for a 2 speed motor.
I replaced the wiper switch after work today but it began blowing fuses, 25Amp at that! So playing with the wires and 5 fuses later I've figured out that if the park wire is not used, I can operate the wiper motor on both speeds but I have to time my turning them off so that I park the wipers close to the orignal position. Strangely enough, reusing the original switch, the wipers are "on" in all positions (the park wire is connected). Remove the park wire then like the universal switch I can operate the wipers but have to time the off.
I'm of the opinion that the wiper motor is now pass it's usfulness and needs replacing. Am I wrong??
Blowing 25Amp fuses when the wiring diagram shows that the wiper motor has just a 15Amp fuse, I'm thinking that the wiper motor is shorting out inside. I'm considering wiring in a relay tomorrow, but I don't see that resolving anything at this time.Searching on EBlag I found RTC3867 as a repalcement wiper motor. But there was one seller where a customer wrote that the wiper wotor was a single speed..... Right off the bat, casting doubt if this is the correct wiper motor, is it?
Has anyone had a wiper motor begin shorting out causing slow battery drain like I'm having? I do have the dash completely torn out and I've began removing redundant wires, a tidy up is needed.
Todd.
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2 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
I'd say OP needs to fix the actual problem not throw upgrades at it that may mask it.
In good condition standard brakes should be more than good enough unless the truck is a long way from standard - limited by the grip of the tyres not the braking force.
In total agreement with you FF. I've gone through a process of elimination with the brakes, other than replacing the front soft hoses or replacing the master cylinder, everything else has been gone though.
When I ordered the master cylinder, it said at checkout and in the confirmation email that I would recieve it between 18-20th, still nothing.....so typical.
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For my part, one step forward and two steps back.
I replaced the brake booster, the original large pancake booster was replaced with the dual diaphragm disco 1 booster. When I removed the original booster there was something inside of it that is rattling but no idea what it is.
First drive and the brakes are no different. 😕
So some more research and watching a few videos, LR Workshop's in particular showed how loose wheel bearings can cause a soft pedal. After work this week myself and one of our mechanics checked all the bearings, with only the fronts needing a slight adjustment of less than an ⅛th turn.
Again no firmness with the pedal, we both came to the conclusion that the master cylinder is kaputz. Even pumping the pedal, the firmness is short lived as pedal begins to slowly sink to the floor.
There is brakes yes but there is no sense of yes I have brakes. With that said a new master cylinder is in the post but I will be putting the Defender in winter storage tomorrow, so this issue with have "to be continued" at a later date.
Todd
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On 10/4/2023 at 10:54 AM, Jon W said:
I can't remember what I used in my rebuild on my 90 it was drum brake many moons ago then swapped to a few different rear axles over last few decades. It used to lock up on the rear before the front which was a bit hairy on corners. During rebuild either the balanced value got shaken around and freed up, or it is the defender td5 master cylinder and servo that i put on it that has sorted out the brake balance and also made the brakes so much easier to press.
Very happy with the brakes now. Defender 110/130 vented fronts and discovery rear brakes
Jon,
I've been reading all the comments and have been checking prices on converting to vent disc's on the front. I'm not under the illusion that it's going to reduce my braking, weather prolonging or delaying overheating is the benefit I'd like to have in the mountains. So far with the change to the disc salisbury axle I've noticed a more straight line and even (front to back) braking but still it does take some effort on the pedal. Yesterday after work I lengthened the fork on the Disco 1 brake booster by 10mm, when the weather allows I will change that. I'm hoping that it will give the same improvement as it did on the 88".
Todd.
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15 hours ago, Daan said:
Also worth checking the piston diameter in your front calipers; There is 41 and 46mm versions, bigger is better obviously. The bigger caliper has bigger Pads as well. 0n a 110, wheelbase You might get away with no proportioning valve at the back if you run the bigger calipers. On my 88, it did need a proportioning valve.
Daan,
Off the top of my head I don't remember the piston size on the front, may have to pull a tire after work and see. Thanks.
On my 88 I have 46mm front and rear plus the disco 1 booster. With all the camping gear installed it stops literally on a pence and that vehicle does have the proportioning valve.
Todd.
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23 hours ago, Tobias said:
I like your ideas on brakes, disco 1 booster and electric vac pump..
i was tutored on Tesla/Bosch ebrake electric brake booster at the Botkyrka MK offroad meet in August. I found a used one in Norway and I’ll try it on the Pulse replica..
maybe we can meet up somewhen and compare brakes?
Tobias
Hej Tobias,
I'm away this weekend with SLRK but finger crossed I can replace the brake booster within the next 2 weeks then after that I'll consider weather or not if I use an electric vacuum pump from a V70.
Jupp, it's been too long since we've crossed paths.
Todd.
Improving 110 brakes on a budget
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Tony, I agree with snagger when it comes to an electric vacuum pump, the benefits are there for that upgrade if you have the issues he wrote. A friend's 110 goes through vacuum pumps like they are going out of style for some strange reason and his plan is to change over soon. Myself as I wrote earlier have already bought an electric vacuum pump from a dodge ram. (UP5.0)
From what I've been reading so far is that many people are not happy on the idea of the electric vacuum pump conversion mostly due to them buying a pump that is not suitable for the job. ie: hella UP28
In your case Tony, dodges are dime a dozen, I'd be at the wreckers getting the parts to make the conversion work. Sigi's link is good with quality parts for the vacuum system. But I think you could get away with all dodge parts, that is my thought and plan on my defender later down the road.