Jump to content


Settled In
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


tuko last won the day on March 5 2018

tuko had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

34 Excellent

1 Follower

About tuko

  • Rank
    Good old Boy

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Location
    A Caper, Living in Sweden

Recent Profile Visitors

1,553 profile views
  1. I'm leaning towards the aux tank under the pass seat. I emailed Lian at Designa Chassis this week and he's informed me that Allisport is his official supplier of the fuel tanks for his frames. The price of the tanks do set you back but the quality is in the product. As for the battery location Nick, I have to spend so time under the vehicle to figure that out. I'm wondering though, I have several shorter pieces (2m) of 50mm cable, can a person maybe use a junction box to extend the leads for the winch?
  2. Following along with the suggestions for the fuel tanks, here is what the tank looks like that I have today (photo taken from the internet) So, a standard tank wouldn't fit on the pass side as it has to be "trimmed" like that above.
  3. Weight distribution, yes Nick you are right but I can think replacing the winch cables wouldn't be cheap (longer) plus relocating everything else. Also I just remembered that I did remove one of the tank mounts on that side of the frame years ago cause it was getting hung up a lot when offroading. But with that said, I'll take another look, maybe it would be the best alternative ??
  4. David, the Designa chassis fuel tank is "trimmed" so that it clears the radius arm mount on the frame. By them trimming the lower edge of the tank I lost approx 3 litres. I never put any thought into the 90 fuel tanks, I think I have to get the measuring tape out to see if it's plausible.
  5. Inside the rear frame rail, but there is plenty of room to place a heat shield if need be.
  6. My 88" is built on a Designa coil sprung chassis that has a Designa custom fuel tank which is in the range of 43ish litres. When we are overlanding, I'm always watching the miles driven and planning well in advance for the next fuel stop, which I normally plan in the 320-350 km range. Some days....or I should say everyday we are having to fuel up 2 times. I do know that you can have duel tanks under the seat box for the series but I have the start battery and some electrics under the pass seat so that idea is basically out of the question for me as I was forced to move the start battery from the engine bay when I did the 300Tdi conversion. So I've been playing with the idea of a 40L fuel cell under the rear floor just ahead of the rear cross member. That's vacant real estate in my eyes and a 40L fuel cell with the demensions of width 42cm, length 42cm and 23cm high would fit perfectly. I see on many of the american overlanding sites they simply run an inline fuel pump that they switch on/off from the cab to cross fill into the main tank. I'm wondering if anyone has done this with their SWB landy to extend their fuel/mileage range? Or have suggestions or tips or ideas that would extend my range with the 88". I should add that besides the above explanation of the current fuel range, we are planning a big trip (ok big for us anyways) to Spain next summer for 4-6 weeks. Having a more comfortable range with the landy is my goal for that and future trips. Todd.
  7. https://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/braking-sorted/
  8. Here I thought I was alone with brake issues.....NOT! 🤣🤣 2 weeks ago I replaced the vacuum pump on my truck and I removed it yesterday. The flipping thing was chattering away as if it was going to explode. Once removed I saw that the 2 grub screws that hold the guide for the piston were turn back so far that the guide was move with the piston. There was not a drop of locktite anywhere's to be seen on the screws. Moving on to the next point, Nick should ping soon as he's installed the Disco 1 booster on his 109. He also used a Defender master cylinder if my memory is right. I've recently bought a Disco 1 booster and still waiting for the post to deliver the Disco 1 non ABS master cylinder. My plan is to improve my braking as I've noticed a decline in effectiveness after the rooftop tent, awning and fridge are installed. I've googled this topic and there seems to be some confusion of what fits but Nick was able to make it work with little to no mods involved and he was over the moon with the final results. I'm basically going to follow his steps while I use Disco 1 components.
  9. That particular kit, many write that it's a Heavy Duty kit. But I can't see what is heavy duty about it?? I mean it looks no different than any other defender door hinge, is it the stainless steel bolts that stop them from wearing out what seems like ever 3-4 years??
  10. My plan is to improve cooling for the trips that we do with the fully loaded 88. The hardtop rooftop tent, 270 awning, 35L fridge plus all the other camping equipment that we can manage to stuff into the Landy adds up quickly which we feel on the mountain roads. We are already planning a trip to Spain next summer, one week at the Mediterranean ocean, a week crossing the mountains to the Atlantic ocean where we will spend another week. The mountains in Spain are considerably higher than those in Norway, so I want to make sure that cooling is not going to be an issue when there.
  11. Where I've gotten warm is when we are in Norway and say climbing up from Geiranger to the top of the pass which is only 1100 meter above sea level. It's the 17km drive to the top where I've ran into heating issues, this is just one example of a place that I know you've been to. I'm thinking that air circulation through the radiator can be improved. Plus I have ordered the 4 core radiator thanks to the link provided above. When I did the head work last year I didn't change the water pump which a few people have mentioned that I should have done, so that is included with the improvements.
  12. I don't need a part number, but I can add that the above image that you provided, differs slightly from my radiator. At the bottom is shows a tap, mine doesn't have a tap. BUT with that said, it's a replacement radiator that I bought years ago so who know's who the provider was and what they scrimped on while providing a pattern item. Do you know what the core looks like on the HD 4 core radiator?
  13. I'm still hoping to identify this radiator, I do realize the last set of images didn't show a whole lot so I'm hoping that these of the core can shed more of an opinion on what I have. Also while scratching my head and looking at the radiator I seem to think that it's too busy in front of the radiator. I've removed the lightbar for the time being and plan to trim the unused bracket on the intercooler. Also the right upright I plan to cut out a 20mm strip the entire length to help increase air flow through the intercooler. On top of that I measured behind the radiator and see that I have 70mm clearance which will allow me to mount the electric fan there after converting it to a puller. Removing the clutter I think should help with increasing airflow and cooling 🤔 So in the mean time, can anyone identify the radiator with the core images? Thanks. Todd.
  14. Mike, Hopefully these images can shed some light on what I have.
  15. John, my son has a '63 Beetle, I'll ask him to search for me. Thanks for the advice. Todd.
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy