tonycan
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Posts posted by tonycan
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Hi, my fuel gauge is malfunctioning but its not dead like the speedometer or the temp gauge. The fuel gauge gives me wrong readings alternating between 3/4 full and 1/4 full. I'm not sure about my cigarette lighter. My unit does not have heated rear windows.
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Hi, I wanted to check if anyone has had experience with their temp gauge and speedometer failing at the same time. I have a 2000 model 300 TDi, 110. A few months back my temp gauge and speedometer would simultaneously and suddenly just fail. After a while they would register proper readings again. It seems something is loose somewhere. Last Saturday, they stopped giving readings again and have not come back on since. Would anyone know what connections I would have to check? Thanks.
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yup. I just replaced my alternator from 65 to 100 amp and connected fat wire to B+ and other wire to D+. Unfortunately after re-connecting battery and then putting the back cover on I stupidly made sparks fly with my screwdriver. The new alternator still works but the battery charge light indicator no longer lights up, I learned from this forum that I most likely knackered a diode inside. At least my GPS has a voltage reading which lets me know my battery is being charged. Lesson learned - make sure electrical work is done and free of any shorts before re-connecting the battery cables.
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related to the 300TDi running rough - I experienced rough running at low speed in second gear and the engine running rough every now and then. After replacing my defective alternator and upgrading from 65 to 100 amps I noticed that the rough low speed running had improved. I thought it was actually loose gears but maybe it had something to do with current supply. Just my guess though.
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Hi, in my fuel gauge's inaccurate reading I replaced the in-tank sending unit. The gauge still doesn't read accurately. Unfortunately the local dealer has no stock of a new fuel gauge. Would anyone know if there is something else I should be looking at to fix my gauge's inaccurate reading aside from the gauge? Thanks.
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Hi, my steering pump pulley in my 300TDi has come out slightly making the belt misalign. I need to replace it and the price difference between Allmakes and ZF brands is quite huge. I was wondering if anyone has had a bad experience with the Allmakes brand?
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connects should be B+ to the thick Brown wire
D+ to brown/yellow which is the charge/ignition light on dash [battery icon]
if No rev counter fitted, just safely cover the W terminal so nothing can short it out.
if the charge/ign light doesn't work first try another bulb if that doesn't work you've probably blown one of the doides in the rectifier pack inside the alternator.
Thank you for the clear info. Will check it out tom.
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Hi, I just replaced my 65amp Defender 300 TDi alternator yesterday with a 100 amp alternator. My 300 Tdi has 2 wires connecting to the alt, a thick wire which was connected to the D+ terminal and a thin wire which was connected to the W terminal. There is also a "resistor type thing"connecting D+ to B+. In my 100 amp I connected the thin wire to W and the thick wire to D+ but the alternator didn't kick-in. I re-connected the thick wire from D+ to B+ and now the alternator charges with a reading of 14 volts. I don't have a tachometer. Does that mean that there shouldn't be a wire connected to the W?
Also, my battery light indicator doesn't light up. Is that due to my connections you think or should I check for a blown bulb?
Thank you for the replies.
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Ha ha, no. i'm one of his regular customers.
Oh ok. I was able to get a quote from him for the Puma's ECU requirements. Much cheaper than here but not readily available and will take about a month to bring in. Will try to expedite things with our local dealer.
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you will need to check the 10AS unit frequency (there's a large lable on it) and check your remote/fob unit (should state on the back, tiny sticker or when you open it up, inside) to see if they are the same. if they aren't, you can't sync them. there should be 3 variants if i didn't remember wrongly.
i'm located in singapore.
Thanks Andrew, I checked the FOB but no sticker and nothing written inside. I'll have to check the 10AS unit. Would you be Richard's brother of Nam Seng Land Rover Parts?
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There you go!
Hi pete, the ECU should get here in 7-10 days. Can't wait! I hope all goes well.
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open the dash. there are a few different wave length listed one of which being 315Mhz. you will need to find the correct fob unit to work with the frequency listed.
you will be able to sync the fob to the 10AS unit thru the nanocom. there are 2 variants of the 10AS unit one with CDL and the one without. if you get the one without CDL (central door lock), you might be able to arm the 10AS unit and imob the engine, but the doors won't lock. in that case you might decide to fit an external CDL unit and set the 10AS to 'dumb' mode.
Hi Andrew, thanks for the info. Do you live in the Philippines? I already bought a reconditioned re-mapped ECU paired with an 10AS unit from ebay. I also asked the seller to include a remote unit (is that the FOB) synced to the 10AS so that I don't have to fiddle around with it too much.
With the nanocom would I be able to sync the 2 existing fobs that came with the car? I guess that would be true only if the fobs are the same frequency as the 10AS right?
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Sorry but anything standard from the factory up to the roof in water is going to be f**&ed, end of story. Doesn't matter what the badge is. A basic mechanical injection vehicle like a Tdi is just a bit easier to fix.
I guess I have to agree with this. My Puma has been stuck wading in a river up to the hood for about 15 minutes rescuing a land cruiser and she kept on running without any hitch. I don't blame LR for my woes right now.
12 hours under water is quite unusual. My neighbor had 4 cars submerged including a Disco 3 and year old Range and they are both waiting to be serviced too. Only thing is he was wise enough to get comprehensive insurance with "acts of God" which should take care of his expenses. -
Thanks for the advice on the nanocom. It's retailing for 191 pounds. I'll try to order online. I've already placed the order for the TD5 ECU which is a re-mapped reconditioned unit. I hope it holds up to years of use but first I hope it gets my TD5 running.
Sorry for the confusion. I meant central locking system. I have 3 remote control units but I have no idea if they'll work with the new AS10 ECU so I purchased a remote unit to be synced with the ECU so when it gets to me I hope it will activate the central locking of the vehicle.
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Hi!
My 110 TD5 is MY -99, but I have changed a used NNN ECU for it, because I have programmed a tuning software into it.
When I first tried the newer ECU, it worked right away, even without programming the Injector codes. Why, I just don´t know, but it did and it also run flawlessly when I was driving it. But for shure, the right method is to program the Injector codes into it by using T4, Nanocom or such, but the swap will work!And of course you should program the new chassis number etc on it, but that doesn´t affect it´s functioning. BUT! if you by a new ECU, it comes empty, so you must get it programmed by someone who has access to T4 and has the latest program updates. You don´t need to buy a new alarms ECU if it´s not dead, and if it is, it doesn´t have to be from the same vehicle, it will work without any programming, at least mine did. Correct me if I´m wrong...
Good Luck, You will get it running!
Hi Pete, thanks for the words of encouragement.The ECU I'm getting is for a Land Rover Defender TD5 ECU with Performance Remap and comes paired with the security AS10. I'm hoping it will plug and play. My TD5 is still parked in my garage since the local LR dealer can't accept it right now due to the number of cars they're working on. So, when I get the ECU I'll plug it in myself and hope it fires. My TD5 is equipped with power lock so I don't know if that's an issue with a new AS10.
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That sounds very expensive to me but I don't know for sure what the alarm ECU costs - I would have said a couple of hundred would be more like it.
Second hand from a breakers would be a much cheaper solution - I'd talk to Equicar in the UK - have had stuff from them in the past and so far its all been good. If you are paying for it, it will probably be a quarter of the price of doing it with new.
If it was my money I'd get the engine running first and decide if that is OK before spending more money on it.
Thanks, I'll check out equicar if they're on the web. You're right. I should get the engine running first before getting deeper into the parts. Patience is a virtue. I just miss them
The thing is I'll have to get the AS10 first so the ECU can get the signal to start up I think. The TD5 ECU I'm looking at comes with the AS10 for USD 630 so I'm hoping I can find a supplier in the UK who can give a reasonably priced AS10.Thanks.
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Yes and no. You need to think about 2 things;
1) you will need to take off the rocker cover, read off the injector grades and program them into the new ECU so you will need a computer anyway
and
2) it may fit any engine if it is the new NNNxxxxxx ecu part number but it will still need the right software for the age of vehicle to make it run properly, which again needs a computer to talk to it. If the ecu part number is MSBxxxxxx then it is for the older sort - 1999/00/01 model year. I'm not really sure what happens if you plug an old type ECU into a new type engine, or a new type flash ECU programmed for an 02 onwards vehicle, into an old type engine. As above Porny may be able to assist though he hasn't been on much lately.
Thank you for all your posts BogMonster. Things are getting a little more hopeful. Yes the ECU part number is NNN. And it comes with the 10AS which is a good buy I think. I just hope the ebay guy is on the level. I will try to contact seller and bring in the part. I guess I can ask the local service dealer the computer programming.
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I found an engine ECU paired with an AS10 security unit on ebay being sold by KDlandrovers. The site says that this ECU will fit any TD5 engine. I was wondering if anyone could tell me if I do buy this item whether it will work with my TD5 engine?
Thanks in advance.
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B*llocks. I was fannying around with one in the workshop the other day and if a Puma does not have a valid immobiliser signal, that is exactly what it does! I don't know why - but I think it is because the engine ECU reacts to a start signal to avoid the delay of waiting for the two units to talk to each other every time you start, but then if it doesn't receive a valid immobilisation signal within a certain time from power-up, then it locks everything down. One of the tuning gurus on here may be better to advise on this.
From your second post it looks like he has now figured out I was right and he was wrong anyway
Hehe. That's what I figured
They might be reading this forum too. The thing is, for starters I'm now supposed to get a 10AS alarm module - 885 British pounds, can't believe that little module costs that much; ABS module 1,660 British pounds and an instrument pack 300 pounds. That's considering the engine ECU is ok, if not, I'll have to get that one too. I was trying to search the web for ECUs but it seems the web offers don't sell ECUs.
This flood is going to be expensive.
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surely its them who need to get one not you
Hi Camel, normally that's true and they are giving me a quote and a shipping schedule but it's normally cheaper in Singapore and in-stock so I need to compare prices and go for the better deal. Although, the ocal distributor did mention that they would not be taking advantage of this calamity and would offer replacement parts at a goop price.
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Spoke to service manager again, they ran the 10AS alarm ECU thru diagnostics and didn't get a signal. He says it must be broken and I'll need to order one also. Hopefully when the electronics are replaced she'll fire up.
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Informed the service manager and he says that if the engine were immobilized it wouldn't crank at all. It turns out that the engine will crank once or twice before refusing to crank anymore. So, I guess the 10AS alarm ecu is not the culprit.
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Hi, I had the same problem with my 110 TDi. The fuel gauge fluctuates every now and then and sometimes will read 3/4 full and the empty tank signal will light up. At first it was the gauge but it turns out its the float inside the tank. I'm afraid you'll have to drop your tank and re-fit a new float.
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Doesn't matter - the vehicle will still have a 10AS alarm ecu it is just programmed to be dumb and "always say yes" to the engine department when the ignition is on. It probably doesn't say yes when it is full of water
so the engine ECU will probably see that as an order to remain immobilised.Thanks! That's a good tip. It might be the reason why the engine will only half crank. I'll inform the service manager.
12 hours under water is quite unusual. My neighbor had 4 cars submerged including a Disco 3 and year old Range and they are both waiting to be serviced too. Only thing is he was wise enough to get comprehensive insurance with "acts of God" which should take care of his expenses.
Temp Gauge and Speedometer failing
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Thanks! I'll check on it tom.