110 Dom

The fuel tank on my A plate 110 V8 CSW need replacing as it is corroded. Is there any later model plastic ones that will be a direct replacement for this age of vehicle? Does anyone have a partnumber that should do the job and where best to buy from. Thanks

Yes it was a typo, its on an A plate. Not sure of the ratio, I will have to check. There is nothing wrong with the TF box other than it has not run for around 5 years. Is it most likely that the whirring noise when the clutch is up is from the gearbox or could it actually be the transfer box? Something is not right and I thought swapping from 4 to 5 gears would kill two birds with one stone. I used the vehicle for maybe 5 years and then off the road for 5 and the clutch has never been replaced so guess it would be a good idea. Cheers

Many thanks chaps Is it likely that the transfer box would need changing too or would that stay with any of the options? Would Ashcrofts be the best place to purchase or other? I guess it would be sensible to replace the clutch too? Is they any other thing beneficial to do / replace at the same time. Whats would be a typical time to do this job including removal of old parts and getting new ones on and operational? I am mechanically minded but not done this job before. Thanks Dom

Hello All, I'm just reposting this hoping a new pair of eyes may see and can point me in the right direction re the gearbox selection and ease of the job. Thanks Dominic

Its been a while since I have been on and a while since I have worked on my 1980 110 3.5V8 County Station Wagon. My garage is almost built so soon will be able to crack on with the project!! I have a four speed box fitted which I would like to change for a 5 speed if this is possible? There is a loud whirring noise that I think is coming from the gearbox and when the clutch is pressed to the floor the noise fully stops. That coupled with the lack of fifth gear I would like to swap if its not too bad to do. Any help with which box to get, options on where to get it and how much effort is involved doing the job would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Dom

Hi Its coming up 12 months since I bought my 2004 Discovery 2 TD5. The car has full service history as far as the book is stamped upto date but I don't know exactly what has or has not been done. I would like to service the vehicle myself and a friend of mine who owns a garage is happy to let me do the work alongside one of his technicians using his lift etc. He still gets paid; I get a stamp and learn some along the way. The garage is not a Landrover specialist so I would like to go armed with a plan and all the necessary parts to make best use of time as he will still charge me for the technician time. Does anyone have any info or manual extracts on what should constitute a service and what parts I should buy in advance. Is there any preferred oil that I should get or would the run of the mill that the garage would bulk stock for Diesel engines do? Maybe the service is model dependant?? Mine is an ES Premium and has Ace if that helps to know? Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks Dominic

Thanks for all your comments. When I eventually got home and had time to order the parts and have a go it ended up being a bit of a pain! There were two snapped studs in the end port nearest to the radiator. The bottom one came out ok by drilling and using an easy out extractor but the top one was my worst nightmare for a while....the easy out snapped off inside the sheared stud!! So not only did I have a snapped stud which was sub flush with nothing to grip but I now also had a piece of hardened metal snapped in the stud!! I purchased a new Dremel which I have wanted for a while anyway and used a steel fine point burr and started carefully nibbling away at the stud material around the snapped easy out. After about 2 hrs I had removed enough material such that the broken easy out came out. I then drilled out the stud slightly bigger and tapped M8 helicoil size and fitted a helicoil insert. It was the top stud that caused the problem and looking into the block through the removed water pipe you could see there was not much metal to play with. If the new hole had of wandered a little it could have easily broken through into the water jacket making the problem a whole lot worse. Fortunately it did not break through which was a relief. I got the manifold skimmed as it was a little warped and re fitted it along with longer studs and spacers from JE. I did not grind the webs as I thought the new studs and spacers should be fine. I have been running it for about a week now and everything seems good. I would have replied earlier but have been busy fitting a new fuel pressure regulator as the old one had a leak. That was another pain of a job to do. The access was a bit tight so made it really fiddly but got there in the end.. also fitted an EGR bypass kit. Next job is to replace a broken driving lamp glass so I'm off to post a wanted request! Many Thanks Dom

Wow it was exhaust gases leaking from the manifold. I would have bet a lot of money on a belt slipping issue as it just sounded so much like a slipping belt. I noticed the squeal did not occur from cold but only took maybe a minute before it would squeal when revved indicating a heat relation. I looked at the manifold very carefully whilst someone upped the revs.....low and behold at the same time the squeal starts a tiny puff of smoke can be seen coming from the top of the exhaust manifold!! I am away again so won't be able to check out further for a few days but I would like to ponder over the options to prepare for investigation. I am guessing that if I am lucky maybe a bolt just needs tightening, maybe a bolt has sheared, maybe the manifold is faulty or something else??? Does anyone have any tips on what may be needed to solve the problem after I try and investigate further. Could this be a time consuming and costly fix or maybe otherwise?? Thanks Dom

Hi Thanks for the replys I am offshore at the moment so cant try the soapy water trick but the post has reminded me that my friend tried something similar just before I went offshore. He squirted WD40 on the belt which presumably is similar to the soapy water test? The WD40 did not stop or reduce or make worse the squeel?? As I mentioned earlier the belt is extremely tight if you try and flex it between 2 pulleys and looks in excellent shape? Not sure what to look for re the possible exhaust problem or not sure what to try next. Is it worth trying a new belt even though the existing one looks good, could it be the tensioner if the belt seems tight? Could it be a bearing problem on one of the units its driving, is there a most likely culprit? Any hints or tips on what to try next? I am mechanically minded, just havent dived into the TD5 much as it has been OK until now! Thanks Dom

Hi I have a 2004 D2 TD5 that has recently developed a squeel. On idle the squeel is not there but when you rev up it starts. It sounds like a loose belt but from a quick check the belt seems tight and looks in very good shape. Could it be a bearing on one of the units that the belt turns? Is the belt straightforward to remove and replace? I am thinking it may be difficult to work out which unit is affected unless one pulley seems tight to rotate or perhaps wobbly if bearings have failed. Any hints or tips on how to remove the belt and diagnosing would be appreciated. Thanks Dom

Hi Any hints or tips here may save me an expensive callout from Landrover. I had been out driving for maybe an hours run in my 2004 Discovery 2 today. When I got home the car would not lock on the remote so I ended up locking it on the key. I tried the spare remote and that did not work either, it neither locked or unlocked on the remote but up until tonight everything had been fine. I did not try and start it again and just thought I would have to use the key for a day or so until I could fix the problem. My brother in law turned up and got stuck outside in his bmw as we are on a hill and the ice is bad so the plan was that I would recover him using the Discovery as you do......went to the Discovery tried the remote but was still not working. Unlocked the door with the key and next thing the alarm starts going off. Tried the key in the ignition but it would not start or turn off the alarm. In the end I had to disconnect the battery. I left it 10 mins thinking it may reset but it didnt, as soon as the batterY was connected again the alarm started going off. I read the manual an saw that a key override sequence could be used by turning the key right then left in the drivers door.....if you have the 4 number override code. The manual said look on the security card that came with the vehicle. I found the security card but the box for the key override was not filled in...only the radio security code which I tried anyway but did not work. It is really cold today and ideal weather for battery problems but the fact I had just been driving for an hour meaning everything was warm did not jump out as a battery problem due to cold unless the battery is on its way out or alternator problems?? Any ideas on why the remote may not be working and things to try to get me out of this problem? Is there anyway I can get hold of the 4 digit code unless there is something else to try?? We managed to salt and dig my brother in law free so now its just me stuck!! Thanks Dominic

Thanks Ches, the link is also very useful Dom

Hi, I have got pretty much this problem at the moment, If you have a look 2 posts lower down in the forum you can see the advice I have been given which points to a new actuator unit being required although it may be tricky to fit? Dom

I posted a wanted add quite a few days ago for a new actuator and so far have not had any luck. I think I will contact some breakers as the next thing and see if they have anything. Is the window runner and door top an easy thing to remove? Any hints or tips here probably would help me greatly. Assuming the door card is removed how long a job should it be to tackle the window runners, door top and swap the actuator mechanism? Are there any special tools that I may need to do this job? Thanks for the help so far. Dom

Hi Oops title should have said TD5 and not TDG? My 2004 TD5 has an engine oil leak. I have recently bought this vehicle and believe from scrutiny of previous service history advises that it has been leaking for quite some time. It is not dripping every second but when parked for an hour or so there would be a good few drip marks on the floor and it makes a mess. I put the vehicle on ramps and had a look from underneath. There is quite a lot of oil all over but it looks like it is originating from the drivers side of the engine towards the back of the engine. I removed the engine cover from the topside of the engine. It looks like it is coming from an area where there is quite a few pipes. Its not easy to get to and I did not have too much time to see which pipe or seal etc it may be. I have attached a couple oif pictures and am hoping someone may know the parts and have a good idea what might be the culprit. If you look at the overview picture the leak is between the dipstick and the 2 rubber pipes that contain 90 deg bends and can be seen when you look vertically down which the next picture shows. Is this a sign of a serious problem or should it be fairly straightforward to fix? There may be other leaks but this looks like the main area. I am mechanically minded and normally like to have a go at most jobs myself but I am really short of time for the next 3 weeks and not sure if I can wait that long with the leaking oil. What may I expect to pay for this repair at a Landrover dealer or non franchise garage to repair? Any advise greatly appreciated. Many thanks Dom

Hi On my recently purchased D2 2004 ES the left / right movement on the passangers door mirror does not work. Up/Down works and fold in/out also works. Does anyone know how easy it may be to fix and if I would likely have to buy a full unit or are parts available? I have not tried to investigate yet as I did not want to do more damage until I found out if it is easy to remove the glass / mechanism. Any help or advice appreciated. Thanks Dom

Thanks for the advice. If I can another actuator unit thats not too expensive I will just go for that option first. I will post a wanted add here and if no joy have a ring round some Discovery breakers. In time I will post once it is fixed. Thanks Dom

Hi I have mostly been posting in the Defender Forum but I now also own a 2004 D2 ES so will also be posting here......if there is as much help and advice here as there is in the Defender forum that will be great. OK my D2 which I have recently bought has a couple of problems which I would like to bottom out the first being the central locking. The problem is associated to the drivers door only all other doors work fine. The lock will always lock from the remote on the key but it will never unlock and I have to use the key to unlock the drivers door. So far I have taken off the door trim and gained access to the locking unit. I have not removed the unit as I did not have a torx drive which looks like is needed? I squirted some WD40 into the unit to see if that helps. The WD40 may not have got where it is needed but I tried to spray in best I can without removal but the problem is still there and no change. Ideally I would like to determine if the problem is with the actuator or maybe with the electrical signal / power going to the unit????? Would there be any advantage in aquiring a torqe drive and removing the unit? Will this help me check anything else? The electrical connector has 7 wires. does anyone know if measuring voltages accross certain pins will tell me if the signal / power is OK for the unlock circuit and if so which wires do what. I was thinking I dont want to go and buy another unit without trying to diagnose the problem first There are a few other niggling issues but I will try and post and resolve one at a time so as not to out face me or anyone that may help me!! Its a bit niggling to have bought another vehicle and not spotting certain faults before buying but I really do like Landrovers and hopefully the faults take mainly my time to investigate fix as opposed to loads of dosh. My 110 is a money pit and I was hoping that the Discovery will not be the same!! Maybe I also need to change my username!!! Thanks Dominic

Hi Jason Hope you are well and still keeping busy? I will have another look tomoz, the three bolts sound easy but it looked like there isn't a cut out in the door structure big enough to remove it. Hopefully it is deceiving and a closer look will clear up. Cheers Dom

thanks guys, I would say its the wire kit as opposed to the regulator as it still rotates ok in either direction but more dissasembly is required. Do you have a good link for the RAVE file for the Freelander? Thanks Dom

Hi I am contemplating buying a discovery http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/1755131.htm. I currently have a very tidy 2005 Freelander 1.8 xei sport 5dr stationwagon 42k miles, that I would probably trade in if I was to go ahead....Any one want to buy or could advise what it may be worth trade in or sell privately? I am getting a twin axle caravan and would prefer a slightly bigger vehicle for towing it hence the interest in a discovery. I would like a late model discovery 2 with a high spec. I have only ever had manual vehicles before and am unsure if the automatic would be a benefit or not???? The vehicle is supposed to have fsh but is quite high milage at 90k, should I be worried about this or not...are there any jobs in the service history that I should look for to make sure they have been done. Anyone any ideas, how much extra I should pay if I traded in my vehicle or if I would be better trying to sell my vehicle privatly which is least prefeered for the extra cash outlay before the freelander gets sold; any comments appreciated. Cheers Dom

Hi As well as my 110 project vehicle I currently have a 5dr 2005 1.8 xei freelander. The drivers side rear passanger door has a problem with the electric window that I need to fix. When operating the button in either direction the motor whirrs and clunks and the window does not move. You can manually slide the window up and down by pushing on the glass so somehow its not connected to something inside. I started to investigate....I removed the doorcard and neatly cut some of the plastic film near the white motor unit. I could see a frayed end of steel wire that looks like it has either broken or come free from its clamps if it is clamped which I am only guessing. The bolts for the motor unit seem to be secured from the inside of the door and I am not really too sure what to dissasemble next to get to where I need to be. Does anyone have any tips or manual instructions on what else to disasemble and how to fix?? I have seen comments on other posts about wire replacement kits, does this sound like what I may need and how can I determine if this is the case. Any help greatly appreciated. Dom

Thanks for the positive feedback guys I have had a day off work today and have been working on the 110. Fitted the calipers, one of the mechanics where my 110 is stored showed me how to flare and bend new brake pipes so I cracked on and made up pipes for the other 3 wheels and they are now all fitted. Not quite finshed bleeding the brakes yet. Its sat on axle stands at the moment and hopefully I will finish off tomorrow morning......then onto the next job......and the next!! Chris Mine is an old A reg 110, but with the upgrades I have done so far its starting to look much newer. The rear axle is off a newer vehicle, I bought it last year to replace the old drum braked axle. I bought my parts including SS pistons from shop4autoparts.net, Steve there is very knowledgable and very helpful. Cheers Dom

After spending a couple of weeks of dinner times and brew times the rebuild of my brake calipers for my 110 is complete! I know they are only brake calipers but I got quite a bit of satisfaction in completing them myself. The brake caliper rebuild technical archived by Les was great to follow...also thanks Les for the tips along the way . The calipers had been stood for 5 years and looked like they were fit for the scrapheap..... Use of works gritblaster was just the treat and after new SS pistons, seals, pads and brake caliper paint they are transformed see pics below. Hopefully the 110 will be ready for MOT before too long and I will post a picture!! Thanks chaps for the advice on bleeding the brake system which I plan to do tomorrow.

Many thanks for the quick responses. Got sorted at Halfords with some DOT 4. Probably bought too much but the 5l was £16.99 and the 1 litre £10.99.......what a difference in price per litre comparison. The 5l ended up costing me £10.20 as I have a Halfords trade card which is helpful. I guess I will go through a good 1 litre plus flushing the whole system? Well the calipers have been painted and new seals and SS pistons are in place. Just main bolts to threadlock and torque up then fit pads and they will be ready to fit to the 110 on Friday. I am off to look for a technical archive on flushing and bleeding the whole system, any pointers in the right direction also appreciated.