110 Dom

I was planning to go out at lunchtime to purchase some brake fluid. I have almost finished rebuilding all my calipers and am at the point where I need to smear fresh brake fluid onto the seals before pushing the new pistons in. When I fit the calipers I plan to drain all the old fluid and start with fresh. I had a quick look on Halfords website and have seen there is synthetic, mineral and various different DOT's available. My vehicle is a 1983 110 CSW. Can anyone advise which type to get and how much do I need for a full change of fluid? If no replies before lunch I will delay going to buy until later today. Many thanks Dom

Apologies if you already know this but it's something that nearly caught me out. The shocks most likely come with new rubbers and large dished washers. Make sure you get the washers the correct way around. When I did mine I thought they looked right with the dishes hugging the rubbers. I later found out they needed to face away from the rubbers to allow movement of the shocks during articulation. Fortunatly I only did the first shock incorrectly until somebody pointed this out to be so all I lost was a bit of time. The chap said if you run it with the washers the wrong way around then there is a possibility the shock rods will bend or snap which would not be good

Great stuff, half a day to work on the brakes and half a day to start the Dinitrol underbody protection....thats if things go to plan!! Can anyone access Autodata times or is it more a subscription for garages?

Thanks for the tips, I have just ordered AP Lockheed discs and Ferodo pads, this should give me some good stopping power . As for the new pistons I need to measure the diameter of the ones fitted to order the correct size. Will have a go at fitting the discs on Saturday, if things go sweet and taking that I have the right tools to hand how long do you reckon it might take for all four corners, 4hrs ish?

Ok Cheers, agree with the benefit of not having slotted/vented discs so solid discs it is. I have only just discovered the technical archive and its fab For some reason I have not looked at it before thinking its just really old archived threads. The step by step how to guides with pictures are great and I found the one about rebuilding calipers or How not as the title says!! I had a look at prices and Paddock's for example quote £12.59 for standard discs or £18.34 for AP Lockheed. Does anyone have any opinion if its worth the extra £6 per disc or not. I certainly would not scrimp where safety is concerned but was more interested if the extra £ brought extra quality or technical spec that made a difference??

My 1984 110 V8 CSW after a few years of being laid up is almost ready for mot. I finished fitting the new suspension at the weekend and had a look at the brakes whilst the wheels were off. The discs are pitted and I can see the seals on the caliper pistons are perished. I think I am best putting new discs and pads all round and changing the caliper seals / pistons? The axles are Salisbury with the rear axle being a later Salisbury with disc brakes The vehicle will be used for weekend offroad fun and for towing a trailer / minidigger occasionally. Anyone any ideas on best discs and pads to fit and how big a job is servicing the calipers? Am I best sticking with solid or going for vented or slotted / drilled etc? Thanks Dominic

Hi Well my V8 110 1984 CSW has cost me a small fortune in getting ready for going back on road after 4-5 years of sitting on my drive. I guess thats Landrovers for you and its now a case of I have started so I will finish . The old girl has a DOB of 1984 but many part changes later she's now looking more youthful!! Something that I did not budget for amongst other things are new seats. The seats in the front (2+1)are not too bad condition apart from the cloth trim being quite mucky, at a push I could keep the front seats. The main problem is the second row, they have a few rips and are the type without headrests and sort of finish at mid back height, really I would like the second row seats to have headrests as most likely my two kids will sit in them and they need to be as safe as possible. The rear seats are side facing and 2 on each side; again condition not so good. Any help on options for upgrade / replacement appreciated including what sort of costs I might pay for different options, where best to try and how easy will it be to find something suitable for my vehicle. I would not be looking for top spec plush leather although I would like the interior to look quite nice (probably prefer material as opposed to vinyl) and be safe for the kids and if possible not too expensive. Am I likly to find a full set from an accident damaged defender or similar? Cheers Dom

hmmm, 10mm sounds much better. I think I will take a picture and see what Double S thinks as its so close. Dom

I got the V8 sports kit from Double S, they were very friendly to deal with and I got a SS shiny 20l jerry can with the order! My 110 is off the road so I am doing bits when time allows. Both manifolds are now on and the y piece and centre silencer section, just the rear tailpipe to fit but I will leave that until I have swapped the rear axle (swapping a drum braked Salisbury for a disc braked one). When I first recieved the system I though it had a damaged tube on the OS manifold as it had about a 4" length that had been deformed with a flat. As the top and bottom of the flat had been marked with marker pen I guessed this was intensional to clear something. On installation of the manifolds I found it was intensional to clear the solenoid on the starter motor but it only just clears it; estimate a 1mm air gap. I am a bit worried that radiated heat being so close may do some damage to the starter? I need to look at rerouting some of the wires to the starter, they previously went round the side where the manifold now is. I ran out of time on Saturday to finish off so have not yet fired it up, hopefully it will sound ok and not too loud?? Did you have the problem with only just clearing the starter? Is there a slimline heavy duty starter out there that I may eventually need?? Cheers Dom

I am currently in the process of fitting a new SS exhaust system to my 1984 V8 110 CSW which also includes 2 x 4 branch tubular manifolds. The old system is completely off including the old cast manifolds and I started to have a go at fitting the first new manifold. It was quite tricky to fit without either new gaskets or bolts falling when offering up. I thought it would be easier to use some grease or something to stick the gaskets on and hold the bolts in position until a manifold was fitted and nipped up, then I thought should I actually be using something to help seal the gaskets anyway?? At the moment I have not used anything and the manifolds are still off. The kit came with a tube of paste which I guess is for the tubular connections underneath the vehicle. Could the paste that came with the kit be used on the manifolds or grease or other or do I need to fit without any goo?? Many Thanks Dom

Thanks for the update, good tip about leaving the wheels on, I would have probably struggled a bit without the wheels on and now you have said it, its quite obvious!! Well I will use the lift to loosen everything then as you suggest use the garage floor to peform the swap. If its not this Saturday coming then it will be the following one and I will post an update Think I will leave the bushes for now, it currently hasn't got polybushes fitted. I will check the old ones during the swap and will probably plan for a polybush upgrade at a later date. Cheers Dominic

Like the sound of "if it all goes nicely, you can do it in half an hour easily". Usually sods law doesnt help me but we shall see and hopefully..... Once the job is done I will post an update to say how long it took and if everything went well or not! I have new springs and shocks to go on but not thought about the brake pipes. I have 2" lift springs so I guess a pair of braided longer hoses would be good to have before starting the job. Are there any bushes etc that are must to get for this job or is it a case of looking at bushes during the swap over and and dodgy ones could easily be replaced later? I will use the lift to crack of bolts etc, would it be best to perform the swap over on the 4 post lift or would this make it more difficult? Thanx Dom

My 1984 110 has a rear Salisbury axle with drum brakes. I Bought a later 110 Salisbury axle with disc brakes from a forum member. I plan to have a go at swapping it over hopefully next weekend and am hoping for any hints and tips. A guy I know is letting me use his garage so I have access to a 4 post lift if needed, good jacks etc. Last weekend I gave all the bolts that looked connected to the axle a good soaking with WD40 so hopefully that will help. How long a job may this be to do and are there any tricky bits and methods that may help me to know? Am I best using the lift or just the concrete floor? Thanks Dominic

Think we have a strap wrench at work so will give that a try ta I have only installed 1 corner at the moment, good job as I think I have the metal washers the wrong way around . The dishes are hugging the new rubber bushes!! I did'nt see any diagram in the new shocker boxes and it looked more solid with the way I have fitted it. Thinking about it solid gives less flexibility and with the outside radius of the metal dish touching the bush rolling movement is easier! Good job only 1 corner done so far. Thanks Dom

I have started to fit new shocks and springs to my 110 CSW. I went for mid priced Terrafirma in the end. I have taken the shock, fitted a washer then a bush then inserted into mount followed by another bush , then another washer then a nylock nut. I found it difficult to tighten the nut as the shocker spins. Is there a special tool to use to tighten or is only the loose play required to be removed as opposed to generating compression on the rubber bushes? I have probably managed to remove loose play between bushes at either end of a new shocker but pretty certain I will have zero bush compression. Any hints or tips appreciated.

Thanks Western So far I have contacted Double S, the guy there was helpful and the upshot is a new SS system including tubular manifolds will set me back about £450. A replacement standard unit for the corroded sections will cost £85 so am pondering whats best to do Is your double S system on a V8? I plan to keep the vehicle and on that basis it probably makes sense to go for the SS one which has a same owner lifetime guarantee. The chap said that a standard unit has a middle silencer and the performance SS one does not and is straight through. I really like the noise from the V8 which is one of the main things I like about the car. Would a performance SS system including the tubular manifolds make it sound even better without sounding stupidly loud? I guess a small amount of fuel efficiency and performance may be achieved but the clincher for me would be the sound if it rumbled sweeter. Hopefully if anyone has any experiences with swapping to a performance SS system it may help me to decide?

Hmmm next problem....after all the engine work on my V8 110 CSW A reg its now running sweet apart from the blowing exhaust. At the moment its just the section from the manifolds to where they meet that would need replacing. I like the idea of a stainless system but no idea yet how pricey they are and if they improve the V8 sound or performance? Guess as a minimum I could replace the corroded section with a new carbon steel one or the other end of the scale go for 4 branch manifolds with stainless right through. Anyone any idea of prices either way and best places to purchase mail order? I expect nobody has a secondhand SS complete system for grabs but if so please let me know. My 110 is coming together but one expression I have recently heard, its a money pit!!

Yep, £49 was for both the slave cylinder, master cylinder and postage. From the feedback I am glad I went for the genuine parts. Will be fitted tomoz and yet a step closer to being ready Next problem identified is corroded blowing exhaust but thats another topic!! Cheers guys Dom

Yep gone for the genuine parts which were quite a bit more expensive, £49 verses £28 I did toy with getting the cheaper ones but thought the more expensive ones may hopefully be better quality??? Sorry dont know much about 'new part' quality, would the cheaper ones have been poor and more likely to not stand up to the test of time? Any feedback may tell me if I am always better to go for the more expensive parts or if cheaper Britpart are OK? Dom

Thanks for the advice, new Master and Slave cylinders have now been ordered from Paddocks and should be here in 1-2 days. No doubt I will find the next problem soon from a vehicle that has been stood for a few years but hopefully I am almost there! can't wait!

With a bit of screwdriver persuasion the collar came out but the piston inside was solid with corrosion....looks like a new one would be best. Would you agree the pictures show this is a master cylinder and not a slave cylinder?? Thanks Dom

My 110 V8 CSW has been of the road for a few years. The engine top end rebuild in now finished and running sweet.....yipeeee. At the moment I can't drive it as the clutch is not working. After investigation a seized clutch cylinder was found. I think its the master cylinder? The pushrod will not move, there is a circlip which I have removed but the disc under the circlip looks larger than the hole, possibly is a pressed in part? Please see attached pics. Any suggestions for best plan of attack? Service part...how? Replace item with a new one? It does say on the casting "Girling" and a number that is hard to read but looks like "BS10" Looking in Paddock's they sell slave cylinders and master cylinders of standard type and "Lucas Girling" type. If my best option is to replace which is the correct part and would Paddocks be best? Any help greatly appreciated.

Thanks again for the help. I have enough literature to do the job now so fingers crossed my 110 will soon be running sweet. Once its sorted I will include a pic on my profile as its starting to look quite good although I have found out its quite easy to spend money on it!! Cheers Dom

Thanks for the helpful replies. I cant get to the vehicle until Monday but I have just googled images of Stromberg and SU carbs and I am 99% sure whats on are a pair of strombergs. The link to the Stromberg mixture adjustment site should come in very handy thanks and if I can find anyone locally who has a tool then I now know where to buy one thanks. I will print out and have a read through tonight. I bought all the engine upgrade parts ages ago and due to also choosing a high lift cam the guys from RPI Engineering also sold me new carb needles. I have just found out that the needles do not fit and maybe the RPI guy thought it had SU's on and thus I have the wrong ones? Do you know if due to a high lift cam I will need the different sized kneedles or is it possible that there could be enough adjustment with the old standard ones and how do I know what setting to use? Probably in the setting instructions which I will read but just incase it doesn't cover settings for a high lift cam thought I would mention. I am not sure if I needed a high lift cam but someone said I will get a few more brake horse and its not a bad thing to do and its in now. I am guessing it will use more fuel than a standard cam and from memory when the vehicle was last on the road it was thirsty enough then!! Once she is fully ready for the road I think I will be looking into a suitable LPG conversion! Thanks Dominic